Outboard stand construction

[Woodturnerjosh]

Hi everyone,
I've done some searches on the forum already but could not find the information I was after. I am planning on building a freestanding outboard rest for my wood lathe and I was hoping someone here would have a better knowledge of steel than me for this application. I plan on having a main bar that will go right down to the floor with a fabricated swivel on the top much like you see on the new vicmarc outrigger or their freestanding rest. I was wondering if standing bright bar (cs1020) would be strong enough for this application (I was going to use 40 mm for the main bar and 50 for the section the rest will go into). CS1020 is all the local Metal Land stocks but they can get higher specification steel in if I tell them what I want.
Any comments or suggestions would be greatly appreciated as I know nothing about steel!
Thanks
Josh Stevens

[Paul39]

As the force is mostly straight down I would think a piece of black iron pipe would do for the lower section. If you wanted something a bit stouter, a size or two larger with a reducing fitting on top would work. A six inch pad welded on the bottom, or a floor flange screwed on would do if you are going to fasten it to the lathe.

If you want completely free standing, the pipe welded into an auto or truck brake drum would work. For more weight, filling the brake drum with concrete and the lower part of the stand with lead shot, used nails, or whatever is at hand would give stability and reduce vibration.

Paul

[DJ’s Timber]

I've made quite a few of these stands http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=35312&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1189979471 as shown in this old thread (http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=41391), approximate dimensions are listed in that thread as well

[Woodturnerjosh]

Thanks for the responses guys!
I am actually using a 1000 x 600 mm 5mm steel plate to have a heavy duty tripod like stand attached too. This way I can stand on it while turning and add my own (not inconsiderable) mass to. I was more worried about what quality of steel to use but thanks for the suggestions.
By the way, may I ask where you bought those handles from DJ?
Cheers
Josh

[new_guy90]

it shouldn't need to be to heavy (the ones i have seen are light free standing, welding box section ones), if i was to make one i would make it so i can stand on it with my foot and it should stop the vibrating. oh is it for bowels or table tops?

[DJ’s Timber]

Thanks for the responses guys!
I am actually using a 1000 x 600 mm 5mm steel plate to have a heavy duty tripod like stand attached too. This way I can stand on it while turning and add my own (not inconsiderable) mass to. I was more worried about what quality of steel to use but thanks for the suggestions.
By the way, may I ask where you bought those handles from DJ?
Cheers
Josh

Long time since I bought them, but I would have picked them up from an Engineering or Industrial Nut & Bolt Suppliers

[hughie]

[
I
was more worried about what quality of steel to use but thanks for the suggestions.

Josh 1020 will be just fine and at 40mm dia its more likely to be over kill :U.The 5mm plate may flex some, but other wise it should be fine

[Ed Reiss]

Hi Josh...heres a pic of the outboard stand that Powermatic makes, might be of help with your design.

[Woodturnerjosh]

Thanks for the replies everyone!
I will have to stop in at the local fasteners place for those handles (thanks DJ)
Thanks Hughie, I like the idea of overkill! I will not be attaching the bar straight to the 5mm plate but it will be supported by some very sturdy legs ( I was thinking one at the back and two at the front)
I am not making this to turn larger diameters but I would just like to get better access when freehand hollowing, if I knew the direction I was going to take when I bought my lathe I would have bought a shortbed!
Thanks for the pic Ed, that swivel at the top is a longer and flatter version of what I was planning on making out of two sections of 50mm round and some 10mm by 75mm flat bar.
Cheers all!
Josh

p.s. If what I plan works I will have to put up some pictures.......If it doesn't work we will never mention this again:B

[Robomanic]

...
As the force is mostly straight down
...


Guess it depends on technique, but I would dispute that. If you are up inside a bowl and your gouge is anything but dead level, the force is not straight down. Recently my heavy roughing cuts have seen my gouge at 45deg and more from horizontal, getting up to 60deg when working at the lip.
Getting carried away in a heavy cut with curlies flying would be a great way to send your toolrest (or post) into the workpiece.

I Like the break disk idea, especially because you can make it as heavy as you like and when you tip it up to its balance point you can roll it in or out of position.

Can I suggest a truck wheel rim? Maybe even a car wheel rim would do it. It's round so you can move it, they are heavy but you could load it up further, and they are thick enough to weld to. If you put the post at the front of the rim it should go a long way to resisting the forces from the chisel applied a meter or so above it. Any scrappy will have them.

[hughie]

Hi Josh...heres a pic of the outboard stand that Powermatic makes, might be of help with your design.Ed thats one sturdy stand, saved the pic for future reference, ta muchly :2tsup:

[Ed Reiss]

Ed thats one sturdy stand, saved the pic for future reference, ta muchly :2tsup:

Damn sturdy price too, ya welcome!!:o