My new bandsaw circle cutting jig

[dai sensei]

Finally got around to using my bandsaw circle cutting jig, based on Robbo’s circle cutting jog (http://www.woodworkforums.com.au/showpost.php?p=828613&postcount=10) modified to suit the scrap materials I had in the shed. The metal slide is 13x3mm, sliding in a slot using my slot cutting bit in the router, with threaded holes for the pegs to allow blanks from 140mm to 640mm diameter (at 20mm increments). The pegs for the radius pin and locking radius are from ¼” bolts. I have 2 radius pegs to suit dead flat blanks and one that sticks out an inch. They both have a short thread to connect to the slide. I was worried the 13x3 slide was too small, but it worked a treat, not bad for a few hours work from scraps.

I cut up most of the blue gum forks from the gap timber (http://www.woodworkforums.com.au/showpost.php?p=853070&postcount=42) to 360mm dia (max for my lathe) or 280mm dia. The close up of grain is from one of the spiral slithers. All the decent sized scraps are also cut up into handle and pen blanks. I will rough turn the bowl blanks tomorrow and reseal them from drying. There are still 2 big forks, for 600mm dia blanks (for when I get my Stubby, one day anyway :rolleyes:), and two more for pepper grinder blanks. I had to stop cutting as the tyre on my lower bandsaw wheel broke.

Cheers

[artme]

Gerate!!! :2tsup::2tsup:

Love that grain in the last pic.

[lubbing5cherubs]

cool. If you need some homes for some of them blanks send them this way it be alright Neil I will look after them really good. :D
bye Toni

[OGYT]

Good lookin' system! Wish I had a decent bandsaw to make one for. :)

[Chipman]

Simple and it works:2tsup:

Going to make rounding up blanks a breeze.

Just a related question... What is your recommendation for the bandsaw blade in teeth per inch?

Cheers,
Chipman

[dai sensei]

Just a related question... What is your recommendation for the bandsaw blade in teeth per inch?

See here for 's recommendation (http://www.woodworkforums.com.au/showpost.php?p=827177&postcount=2) that I use. I've cut up to 250mm thick blanks without a problem.

[Chipman]

Thanks Neil

Graham

[dai sensei]

Ok I'm not as fast as Cliff, but here are the six blanks roughed turned and recoated all over with sealer. I should have taken the photo before the coating, as the grain is really amazing on some of them, but I wanted to seal them ASAP to stop them cracking more. I also poured thin CA into all the visible cracks to minimise their progression. The one in the middle at the front has a really worrying crack all the way round, so not sure if it will survive.

I ended up with two standard bowls, two natural edge bowls and two platters. They will now reside in the garden shed for the next year or two to dry out. They vary in thickness but are around the 15-20mm thick. The big natural edge bowl is a bit thicker ~40mm as it will take a fair bit of finish turning I think, and allows for a few more catches :-

[Sawdust Maker]

Good lookin' system! Wish I had a decent bandsaw to make one for. :)

me too

Neil, great work
I'll volunteer to look after some of those blanks for you as well :D

[Chipman]

Ok I'm not as fast as Cliff, but here are the six blanks roughed turned and recoated all over with sealer. I should have taken the photo before the coating, as the grain is really amazing on some of them, but I wanted to seal them ASAP to stop them cracking more. I also poured thin CA into all the visible cracks to minimise their progression. The one in the middle at the front has a really worrying crack all the way round, so not sure if it will survive.

I ended up with two standard bowls, two natural edge bowls and two platters. They will now reside in the garden shed for the next year or two to dry out. They vary in thickness but are around the 15-20mm thick. The big natural edge bowl is a bit thicker ~40mm as it will take a fair bit of finish turning I think, and allows for a few more catches :-


Neil, a couple of days ago, I rough turned up 3 bowls and a plate from relatively green red gum (the largest 270mm dia x 200 thick about the limit on a Woodfast mini:D but I did use the tailstock while rounding it up and doing some of the initial shaping).
The suprising thing is that the ways of the lathe were rusty even before I had finished:oo:. One of mine has some really serious cracks in it but at least it was good practice. It will also give me a chance to try out my repairing skills:rolleyes:

I currently have them in plastic bags to stop them splitting. (cracks were starting to appear in the blanks just hours after they were cut) I see you painted yours with something.

Are plastic bags OK or not?
What are you using to paint on it? (on unturned blanks, I have always just used acrylic paint)

Maybe it is time that we relook at the whole issue of dtying blanks again, especially for newbies like me.

Regards,
Chipman

[dai sensei]

These bowls are sealed with log end sealer, a petroleum product, I got it from a wood turning store at the Gap in Brisbane in a 4lt container that goes a long way. It stays flexible and doesn't go rigid. You can also get it apparently from fuel distributers but usually in larger 20lt drums.

There are also many other sealing products - waxis the best but you can use PVA, plastic type paint, Bondcrete etc. There has been many threads on sealing, paint is better than nothing, but normal paint is rigid and will crack in time. Plastic bags are only a very temporary solution, for while you have a cup of tea or overnight.

Cheers

[Hardenfast]

Nice work Neil, and informative post - many thanks.

I'm assuming that you cut a flat face on the bottom of blanks prior to placing on the rounding jig, so that they sit solidly on the saw table? If so how do you cut the flat - just a freehend cut through the band saw? I'll check out 's post again.

Wayne

[TTIT]

These bowls are sealed with log end sealer, a petroleum product, I got it from a wood turning store at the Gap in Brisbane in a 4lt container that goes a long way. It stays flexible and doesn't go rigid. You can also get it apparently from fuel distributers but usually in larger 20lt drums...............Just a heads up on using Mobilcer and similar products on rough-outs. Mobilcer can stain quite deeply and leave some nasty discoloration. If your rough-out has distorted a bit and you can't spare much waste when you're finishing it off, it can really put a piece off - DAMHIKT :C
Parrafin wax in an old electric frypan is a better option :2tsup:

[dai sensei]

Thanks for the heads up TTIT. Too late for these ones :-, hopefully they will be Ok.

I have an old Wok I kept for just melting wax, I just need the parrafin. I've been looking at links to candle making sites on another thread to buy some.

[TTIT]

Thanks for the heads up TTIT. Too late for these ones :-, hopefully they will be Ok.

I have an old Wok I kept for just melting wax, I just need the parrafin. I've been looking at links to candle making sites on another thread to buy some.I got a 25kg bag off Ubeaut which should last me several lifetimes. The thing was that even though the freight cost more than the wax, it still worked out cheaper per kilo than anywhere else I could get it :shrug:

[Rum Pig]

<TABLE class=tborder style="BORDER-TOP- 0px" cellSpacing=1 cellPadding=6 width="100%" align=center border=0><TBODY><TR title="Post 873121" vAlign=top><TD class=alt2 align=middle width=125>TTIT</TD><TD class=alt1>
I got a 25kg bag off Ubeaut which should last me several lifetimes. The thing was that even though the freight cost more than the wax, it still worked out cheaper per kilo than anywhere else I could get it :shrug:
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

I could not find it on his web page is it something he normally sells:?

[DJ’s Timber]

I could not find it on his web page is it something he normally sells:?

:no:

I think he has sold the last lot of the damaged stock, in fact I'm sure, Calm and myself got the last 2 bags.

You could send ubueat a PM but he is overseas at the moment and won't be back for a few more weeks yet.