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new bee ww
5th May 2004, 02:03 AM
Thinking of building a table. Reading the plans and calls for mortise and tenon joints for the table frame. I am thinking that for me it would be a lot easier to put in 1/2" loose tennon.
Would a loose tennon be strong enough and if so does anyone have a good jig design to create a loose tennon?

Barry_White
5th May 2004, 11:58 AM
I'll bite what is a loose tenon. Is that one that is made sloppy or is that a term for a particular type of tenon joint.

If you want a jig to make a tenon there are several jigs in the Homemade Tools and Jigs Forum.

journeyman Mick
5th May 2004, 12:06 PM
Barry,
loose tenon: take two pieces that need to be joined, cut mortice in both, make up a length of tenon stock to fit snugly in the mortice, cut to length, assemble joint.
Newbee, there is a jig called a "beadlock" loose tenon jig available in Australia from CarbaTec or in the US from Amazon (and various others). If you have friends in the states you can get it sent freight free to them from Amazon and get them to mail it to you, ends up being about half the price of buying it locally. I'm waiting on some relatives that are arriving in a few weeks for mine. Alternatively Lee Valley sell loose tenon stock and router bits to suit, but you will have to build a jig to suit or use a horizontal morticer.

Mick

silentC
5th May 2004, 12:07 PM
Loose tenon (also known as floating tenon): you make a mortice in both members and use a separate tenon made from, in this case, 1/2" stock.

There's a thing called Beadlock that conists of a jig and precut tenon stock which only requires a hand drill if you want to go down that path. Otherwise, one of the current woodworking mags has an article on floating tenon joinery and includes info on making a jig. Sorry, but I don't remember which one.

You could use Rocker's morticing jig if you have a router (see earlier thread in this forum).

silentC
5th May 2004, 12:08 PM
By a nose, Mick... ;)

Barry_White
5th May 2004, 12:13 PM
Thanks for the answer it just goes to show I'm not too old to learn.

Dan
5th May 2004, 01:07 PM
Originally posted by new bee ww
I am thinking that for me it would be a lot easier to put in 1/2" loose tennon.
Would a loose tennon be strong enough and if so does anyone have a good jig design to create a loose tennon?

A loose tennon should be just as strong. If Rockers jig seems a bit overboard, try this,
http://www.wa1.quik.com.au/tod/mortice_and_tenon_joint_3.htm

Dan

Rocker
5th May 2004, 03:45 PM
Nah; my jig is not overboard; you can make it in a day. In case you have trouble finding it, here is the thread for it

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?s=&threadid=5633&highlight=Mortising+jig

E-mail me for a copy of my article on it.

Rocker

derekcohen
5th May 2004, 04:48 PM
New bee

I strongly support the use of one-piece mortice and tenon joints in place of loose tenons. This is not because there is anything fundamentally poor with the loose tenons - indeed, they should be as strong as the solid tenoned joint. No, it is simply because they are harder to make for a novice woodworker. Not only do you need to be able to rout endgrain, but you also have to rout the loose tenon stock accurately.

Similarly, I would not advocate the Beadlock jig. It, too, requires drilling into endgrain which, while a lot easier than routing into endgrain, is still a difficult task (in comparison to my suggestion below).

The easier of all options is to either use biscuits or dowels. However, this is not what I am advocating. It really is about choices, and this remains another set of choises.

My preference would be to cut tenons on the saw table. With the right jig this will be simplicity itself. There are several web-based or magazine articles that demonstrate the process. All you need is a suitable jig.

Rocker has a superb jig. If, however, its construction is daunting, then you can build one as pictured below. This is what I use. Not original by any means. But simple to make (what you see is what you do) and as accurate as you need. (Now I hope this works - my first attempt at multiple pics!).

Regards from Perth

Derek

Dan
5th May 2004, 09:45 PM
I'm sorry Rocker. Bad choice of words. I just thought that new bee could use a simple guide to get his table built then he would naturally realise that your highly accurate and versatile jig would be just what he needs for his next project.:)

Dan

Tonz
5th May 2004, 10:09 PM
Originally posted by silentC
Otherwise, one of the current woodworking mags has an article on floating tenon joinery and includes info on making a jig. Sorry, but I don't remember which one.

Popular Woodworking - April Edition Page 36

The author advocates loose tenons for all his tenon work. He includes plans for a jig to create the mortices. He leaves the mortice ends rounded then rips boards to width for the tenons before routing (rounding) the edges on the router table to fit the mortices and finally crosscutting them to length as required.

echnidna
5th May 2004, 10:12 PM
The easier of all options is to either use biscuits or dowels.

Dowels are a good alternative to mortice and tenons - but don't use biscuits, they are unsuitable for attaching aprons to legs

new bee ww
6th May 2004, 12:27 AM
I want to thank everyone who responded.

As my name states, I am new to wood working. I have tinkered in the past, but I have not had the space or the time.

This is my largest project undertaking by far.

Part of the problem is that I do not have a lot of tools (since I just got some space carved out the garage), and I do not have a lot of extra money to spend on expensive pre-made jigs. The dowel tenon maker looks neat but is kind of pricey.

Thanks for your support.

Rocker
6th May 2004, 12:03 PM
Derek,

With the right jig, routing mortices in end-grain is no problem. See the pic below that shows my morticing jig set up to rout in end-grain. The average newbie woodworker probably doesn't have a table saw with a good enough fence to use a fence-riding tenoning jig.

I also find the jig useful for routing mortices for floating tenons in mitre joints that are too narrow for biscuits. Using floating tenons rather than biscuits or splines in mitred frames makes clamping easier.

Rocker