Bleeding from one timber to another?

[Sawdust Maker]

In the penturners area, shortcast has asked a question about the dust from a darker piece of timber getting into the pores of lighter timbers and stuffing up the finished product. thread is here (http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=86530)

Last year I tried an experimental lamination of jarrah and tassie oak for a bowl. Looked great until I managed to go through the side :~ in disgust I threw it out. The contrast between the two timbers was superb but I did notice that the jarrah bled into the tassie oak, ie dust into the pores. I've been wondering ever since how to go about stopping or preventing this from happening. Unfortunately I don't have a photo of the disaster to show what I mean.

I thought some of you segment lovers might have an idea. As an adjunct, either Skew or TTIT when using some brass in epoxy as a void filler had problems with the brass colouring the timber when polishing.

So how does one negate this effect? With compressed air as suggested or is there some other method?

Thanks

PS happy new year

[Pat]

Dust collection at the lathe, air filtration/extraction and compressed air. Wait an hour or so before finishing, so that any floating dust particles are removed from the air.

[Texian]

SM,

After turning, before/after each sanding grit, vacuum w/ shop vac w/ clean filter for maximum vacuum. Then compressed air. Then wipe with mineral spirits in direction of the grain. May also wipe on a coat of sanding sealer with the grain and allow to dry. This tends to fill the smaller openings. With each finer sanding grit the dust is finer and able to get into smaller spaces, so the use of sanding sealer is very effective for some folks.

Given a choice, use spray finishing materials rather than wipe on. Hope this helps.

[hughie]

I thought some of you segment lovers might have an idea. As an adjunct, either Skew or TTIT when using some brass in epoxy as a void filler had problems with the brass colouring the timber when polishing.


I usually seal the timber prior to filling with epxy/brass for two reasons. My favourite if Floods sealer as it adds no colour change nad dries in about 30mins

One is the CA will run or bleed into the surronding timber and leave a darker colour and to prevent the bleeding of the brass later.

[Sawdust Maker]

Thanks all :2tsup:
I'll see how I go after my next glue up

[TTIT]

..............As an adjunct, either Skew or TTIT when using some brass in epoxy as a void filler had problems with the brass colouring the timber when polishing.

So how does one negate this effect? With compressed air as suggested or is there some other method?
............Polishing the brass-fill with EEE creates the same black compound as Brasso etc which stains the timber badly. To avoid this I usually just polish with super-fine grit paper instead or seal the timber with a sanding sealer first if it really MUST be polished.
I have had trouble with ebony dust contaminating lighter coloured timbers in a project and applying sanding sealer to the lighter coloured timber before sanding the ebony stopped it happening next time.

[Sawdust Maker]

TTIT
thanks

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

If I notice such marks, I'll continue sanding to remove the grit or tool marks and I'm ready to "finish sand." Then I'll stop the lathe, hand-sand the lighter timber to remove these "stains" and apply a coat of finish (usually a DO) to fill the pores.

Once the finish is dry, I remount it on the lathe and proceed with sanding using the next grit I'd have been up to if I hadn't been... "interrupted."

Sometimes I have to repeat this a couple of times, but usually only when I've had to sand further than I thought because I'd missed a tool mark or similar and had jumped the gun in moving on to the final sanding. :-