Bowlsaver - Bowlsaw

[Sawdust Maker]

Just noticed this (http://www.bowlsaw.com/)posted in the product review threads
an item called the Bowlsaw
the testimonials reckon it works
$40 US

[wheelinround]

Nice find Nick wonder if they sell it without the handle for half price :;

[Sawdust Maker]

One could possibly braze a jigsaw blade onto a piece of steel and make one themselves. :rolleyes:
Not me as I don't have any way to do it :no:

[rsser]

Gee, it'd be a bit tedious on a 10" redgum blank wouldn't it.

[Ed Reiss]

Gee, it'd be a bit tedious on a 10" redgum blank wouldn't it.

Yea...kinda' like trying to get curls from Mallee burl:~

[Sawdust Maker]

Yea...kinda' like trying to get curls from Mallee burl:~

:rotfl:

[rsser]

Have read of guys using a leaf spring to make a lance for coring. Anyone here had a go?

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

I've thought about making myself something very, very similar, if not identical, to the bowl-saw in the past.

What stopped me was the thought that if it jammed then it has the potential for a very, VERY nasty accident. Unlike most tools it probably wouldn't become a missile; instead it'd become a Whirling Propellor of Bone-Breaking (+5 vs. Knuckles)

I dunno 'bout you lot, but I've found that sooner or later all tools jam... even if only because of user negligence. :-

[rsser]

Yeah.

Apart from that, the design means you'll be turning dog food bowls, with which I have no problem if that's what you want to be doing.

[Robomanic]

Unlike most tools it probably wouldn't become a missile; instead it'd become a Whirling Propellor of Bone-Breaking (+5 vs. Knuckles)



---- Off topic -----

For a turner Skew, you seem to have a pretty good understanding of the difference between RPG and FPS...

----- END --------

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

---- Off topic -----

For a turner Skew, you seem to have a pretty good understanding of the difference between RPG and FPS...

----- END --------

Ahhh... for the days when ADD meant something entirely different to "bored in school."

[Robomanic]

There's a lesson in life. I used to tease those guys in the library - now I am one (well sort of)

Oh - and to make this post 50% applicable - I second Ern's predictions RE: the redgum.

[joe greiner]

"http://www.aawforum.org/vbforum/showthread.php?t=5636" -> #10

Cheers,
Joe

[NeilS]

"http://www.aawforum.org/vbforum/showthread.php?t=5636" -> #10

Cheers,
Joe

I just hate turning a large percentage of a beautiful piece of wood into garden mulch but, as yet, I have not been convinced that the cost-benefits are there for me with the various coring systems out there.

Post #11 from Otis in the above link (thanks Joe) provides a clear outline of the different coring methods and results currently available.

I don't have a great need for the core shapes produced by methods 1 & 3.

The systems that come closest in flexibility and profile for my requirements for method 2 are the most expensive and specify a more powerful lathe than I otherwise require.

From time to time I have thought about alternatives without coming up with any ideas that are sufficiently convincing to prototype.



However, I keep coming back to the idea that there could be a better solution which incorporates some type of powered cutter arrangement. The fundamentals are:

Transfer the power for the cut from lathe to the cutter. As I understand it, the problem I'm solving here is that my lathes will always be capable of turning larger bowls than I can core with them using current coring systems.
The cutter would revolve in some way driven by its own power source. This of course throws up a heap of problems to be solved, not least of them how to provide a power-drive that will follow the arc of the cutter*
Instead of driving the cut, the lathe would simply revolve the blank slowly to concentrically direct the cutter.
Other problems to be solved include sawdust clearance and achieving adjustable curves
Safe operation may be another major consideration
If an an effective design could be devised and sharp cutter/s used, the coring time per blank could be very quick.
* My first thoughts on possible cutters were:

A router type cutter driven by a flexible shaft like this (http://www.carbatec.com.au/carving-tools/power-carving-tools/archer-power-carving-tools-tools/archer-flexible-shaft-to-suit-dremel-style-tools) mounted on a curved arm similar to existing corers, or
A cross between a disc plough (eg Lucas Mill blade, only bowl shaped) and a TC tip tool... no safety issues there.... :)(
It will be obvious by now why none of this got to the prototype stage.

Perhaps simply adding replaceable TC tips (see this (http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=81452)thread) to an existing method 2 type corer may overcome the underpowered lathe issue.

Anyway, I'm throwing this out here in case someone has come up with some better ideas for a method 2 type corer.

Neil

[OGYT]

Haven't read some of the links posted, so I may be repeating somebody....
About the Bowl Saw: To use it, you must cut a 3/4" wide, deep, strait groove/cut straight into the piece to be cored. Then you insert the saw and turn on the lathe. It would be hard to make the tool catch... it could be done, but not easy.
In order to keep all your bowls from being 'dog-dishes', just measure the spaces between the grooves wide enough (making the cores thicker) to allow enough wood for shaping the core into a pleasing shaped bowl. You might not get as many cores from one large piece of timber that you could with a Oneway or McNaughton, but at least you could get a couple, which is better than turning the whole chunk into shavings.
And, at $40, it's a heck of a lot cheaper than the other two mentioned above.
Hope I explained it clearly enough... and I didn't intend to sound like a smart aleck... just thought it might help someone make a better decision. :)

[rsser]

Thanks Al.

The post helps with imagining what might be possible, as most of your posts do.

[bobcol]

Sorry I missed you guys kicking the bowlsaw. I had put my evaluation of the bowlsaw under tool reviews and have photos on my album. I have both the 6" and 8" to do evaluation on and I have found it an easy and safe tool to use. I have started with a 9"-10" blanks, soft wood and hard wood including red gum. After rough shaping the outside of the bigger bowl it is turned over and a decent rim is left when cutting the 3/4" grove for the bowlsaw I also shape the bottom of the second bowl creating the sacrifice wood for the chuck. When you have the grove deep enough, stop the lathe and make sure the bowlsaw has room to move. NOW YOU TURN YOUR LATHE TO THE LOWEST SPEED, I have found 500-650 rpm is ideal. Once the bowlsaw is in place you hand turn the lathe to form the cleave you then turn on the lathe, the first time is intimidating but if you do catch the lathe will stall for you to correct the saw. There is no fear of missiles flying around, at low speed the cut is slow and I have found if you cut and release repeatedly you get a good cut. Using the 8" for the 9" blank you should have a centre piece of wood left holding the bowls together and a small tap with a rubber mallet will seperate them. You now have a 9" bowl and approx a 7" bowl and if you want to continue onto getting a third its is the same procedure. The third bowl should be about 5" diam and if you make a fitted lid for it you have an attractive box. With experience and practice this tool is an asset, not only on saving precious wood, but the minimal sawdust to be cleard up.

As for the blade coming off, I have done over 20 cuts now without problems, the maker guarantees his tool and will replace any defects. If ordering you can get a longer shaft is required and can be purchased without the handle, price reduced.

I'm sure with practice the grove could be sloped. I have made two platters from the one 9" blank for a 2 tiered cake stand, picture on my photo album. I live at Kangaroo Flat, Victoria and if anyone in the area wants to test drive the bowlsaw just give me a yell. Bobcol.

[rsser]

Thanks for the post Bob.

[tea lady]

Is it sharpenable? :?

[bobcol]

I have been told that it is good for well over 50 cuts before it would need sharpening and should be sharpened by a professional saw doctor or whatever they are called same as other saws.

I know more information can be seen on www.bowlsaw.com (http://www.bowlsaw.com).

[tea lady]

I have been told that it is good for well over 50 cuts before it would need sharpening and should be sharpened by a professional saw doctor or whatever they are called same as other saws.

I know more information can be seen on www.bowlsaw.com (http://www.bowlsaw.com).:2tsup:

[bobcol]

For those interested in saving the centre of an expensive blank or any blank there is now a video showing how simple it is to use the bowlsaw.

View on www.bowlsaw.com (http://www.bowlsaw.com)

bobcol.

[rodent]

Well Ern your not he only tool h### I have just ordered the large bowl saw and hope it will do the trick fred and i got some wonderful sassafras , burl , tiger , myrtle etc blanks from tassi and we don't want to waste them . So when Ive played with the new tool ( fred and skew as well ) ILL bring it to the next conveniant get to geath to do a demmo and for some of you to play with the new tools ( probably have both by then so im told ,addictive isn't it ).:D So whens the next get together Ern ( no not at my place ) .:cool: Ps Dick says nice things about you Bob , and yes Ive seen the vidio but doing , then teaching hands on is the best regards all . ( haven't you got a date set yet Ern ).

[rodent]

It's here the package arrived to day with extensive instructions :2tsup:. Turning tomorrow as it's too blowy tonight :oo:. Top of the house is moving in the wind . Not realy the time to go fishing ether:no: .