Custom length clamps

[scooter]

Recently had to make a large two piece tabletop comprising 2 sheets of 18mm MDF each cut down to 2200x1000 with 42x19 KD hardwood edging around 3 sides of each.

I decided to use biscuits and glue to attach the edging, the problem was clamping the edging on as a heap of clamps were needed (which I didn't have in such a large size) and I didn't want to use screws.

I came up with some one-off clamps which were simple and worked well & I thought may be of interest to others here.

I measured the longest length needed to be clamped, the longest was 2219mm. I purchased some longer lengths of 42x19 in pine for these clamps, allowing the clamping length plus 300mm (= 2519mm in this case)

For each clamp I cut the length to 2384mm. I then nailed a 75mm block of the offcut pine to each end of the 2384mm piece which, when placed over the sheet with edging in place left a gap of about 15mm.

Once the edging had glue applied, bikkies inserted, and was fitted to the edge of the table, I laid all the clamps in place and progressively drove a pair of plastic wedges, called "Wedgies" ( :eek: ) into each 15mm gap, one from either side of the gap, and squeezed them together with a Quickgrip clamp. The opposing wedge action exerted plenty of pressure on the KD edging, and the serrations on the wedges kept them in place. (BTW the edging was unmarked by the wedges)

The Wedgies (or Wedge-its, unsure of correct name) are available from Bunnings and are made from polypropylene I think. As mentioned they have sawtooth serrations on each side which interlock with each other, and are sold in different sizes in bags or boxes at a pretty reasonable price. Even after being used for this with a lot of pressure applied to the clamp they were unmarked.

I used an air bradder to attach the blocks to each "clamping bar" which made it quicker (I had to make about 25 !) but hand nailing or screwing would do the job also. I angled the nails so that the wedging action held the blocks on rather than levering them off, after a trial go showed the power of the wedging action was initially working the blocks off.

I knocked off the blocks and made some shorter clamping bars to attach the edging to the sides of the tabletop.

Proved quite effective and the job came up well.

Cheers..............Sean

[Ian Runge]

The Wedgies (or Wedge-its, unsure of correct name) are available from Bunnings and are made from polypropylene I think.

I've never seen these at Bunnings, but then again, each time I go to Bunnings things get harder and harder to find, and the staff less and less helpful - at least for out-of-the-ordinary things like "wedgies". What part of Bunnings do they keep these things in? and/or could you post an image so I've got a better idea what I'm looking for (length? color? packaging?)

Thanks,

ICR

[davo453]

A good idea Sean

I have used a variation on the idea using the reversible type Quick grip clamps that you can convert so they push apart rather than together.

I nailed and glued 2 blocks to each end of a long piece of pine, I then hook of the blocks over one end of the job and used the spreading action of the clamp against the other block and the table.

If you don't already have that type of clamp, yours would be a much cheaper way to go though.

Cheer Dave

[stevephillips]

They arnt as simple to make but are very cheap and work a treat. Just booker rod and key steel and a bit of elbow grease. They are based on some clamps from Canada that cot $60 a pair and the 6 pairs I made cost $30 you can make the clamp bars as long as you like and if you mount a bar along a wall and hang the clamps off the bar with a leg on each bar a truly humungous glueing table is possible. Ill send pics when mine is set up.

[scooter]

What part of Bunnings do they keep these things in? and/or could you post an image so I've got a better idea what I'm looking for (length? color? packaging?)
ICR

Ian, I found them in the Builder's Hardware section, I think they were in bags of 25 or in a plastic box with 10 each of several sizes. They are colour coded according to the size, I think there was black, green, orange, & blue. I think it was the black ones I used.

Cheers, Sean

[Ian Runge]

Thanks, Scooter,

I'll check them out.

Ian R.

[Ian007]

they sound like spacers/ shims we use in the building game when you want to level up something lets say a window frame. should be in varing sizes 1mm 1.5mm 2mm 3mm 4mm 5mm 10mm 12mm etc etc and for the life of me i cant think of the correct name for them
hope that helps
cheers Ian :)

[derekcohen]

Sean

Yes, I know the wedges you refer to. They are usually in a bin at the checkout at Bunnies, a clear plastic composite material. I use them for temporary shims, such as hanging doors.

But an easier and cheaper way of clamping edging strips is simply to use masking tape. Just tear off and apply strips every 10 - 20 cm, pulling them tightly across the top - edge - bottom, and you will be amazed how well they hold the edge tightly to the table top.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[scooter]

Sean

Yes, I know the wedges you refer to. They are usually in a bin at the checkout at Bunnies, a clear plastic composite material. I use them for temporary shims, such as hanging doors.

But an easier and cheaper way of clamping edging strips is simply to use masking tape. Just tear off and apply strips every 10 - 20 cm, pulling them tightly across the top - edge - bottom, and you will be amazed how well they hold the edge tightly to the table top.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Gday Derek, thanks for the idea but the masking tape may not have stuck very well to the unfinished MDF? Also as the edging was wider than the MDF thickness could the tape have pulled the edging out of square (under) with the edge causing a small gap on top? For 42 x19 KD edging on 18mm MDF do you think it would exert enough pressure to close all gaps anyway?

Not sure about the clear wedges but these ones are brightly coloured which reflects the size. They are serrated top and bottom of each wedge so they interlock positively with each other, and I guess the plastic allows them to be nailed through for setting window frames, door jambs, etc.

I thought about using these in an idea of copying Incra's router table fence which uses stepped opposing wedges to microadjust the outfeed fence relative to the infeed. The serrations on the wedges could give a similar effect but the idea went in the "too hard, too fiddly" basket.

Cheers all.....Sean

[ED T]

A very simple clamp is the "Spanish Windlass".

A loop of rope, tensioned by a twisting a short timber rod in the loop at one edge of the timber being clamped. Then a simple little clamp to stop the rod from untwisting.

Add 2 bits of scrap where the rope loop would otherwise bite into the work.

I have made large table tops that way, with transverse timber bars used to prevent buckling.

ED T

[derekcohen]

Sean

Try it (the masking tape) and see for yourself. Report back on your experience.

I find the masking tape causes less movement than clamps. Nevertheless, when I add edges to boards, I try to aim for 1mm overhang on either side, then plane or route off the excess flush with the surface of the board.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[GCP310]

I agree with Derek, use the masking tape on solid timber edging . you will find it will stick to mdf, just make sure you dust off the sheet first.

Thats how we do it in commercial joinery.

G

[scooter]

ED T, thanks for your input.

Derek, sounds interesting, will try your idea next time for edges which are to end up flush top & bottom.

Thanks, & cheers........Sean

[journeyman Mick]

To All,
those serrated plastic wedges are now being marketed as "Makwedges" by Makita. The Makita people have discovered merchandising and are selling clothing and nailbags as well. The wedges come in platic crates, just recieved a box from Makita the other day to try out. If I write a review I may possibly win their top of the range 12" SCMS :cool: , pretty good incentive :D .

Mick

[tor2000]

Hi, Forgive my impudence as I only joined Woodworking Forums a few minutes ago.

I have found it interesting reading the responces and the light hearted humour.

I would just like to add my two bobs worth (that shows my age).

There are wedges readily available at Bunnings, Mitre 10 and other places that supply click flooring.

I have also used the ratchet tightening web tie downs used for securing loads to vehicles, these spread the load evenly especialy when joining boards together.

A packing piece where edge stripping is greater than the edge of the workpiece stops the pieces slipping.

The great advantage of these are they are very cheap and come in a number of lengths and are readily available.

[scooter]

Impudence nothing, mate, good on yer for contributing, welcome aboard. There have been a fair number of new members joining the BB lately (myself included), which is good for the variety of experience and opinion everyone brings to the table.

Keep putting your 2 bob in tor, share the ideas & knowledge........cheers.......Sean

[bitingmidge]

impudence

Impudence is next to godliness.


:)

P

[LineLefty]

Stevephillips

Your little clamp looks like it's using a homemade version of the Veritas "Wonder Dog" which costs a ridiculous $90 at carbatec. See the pics below.

Any details on the bits and peices used? I was thinking of making one to use as a makeshift tail vise for holding long boards on the bench while planing.

But for the life of me I cant think of where to get or how to make 1/2inch a steel dog with a threaded hole through it for the threaded rod.

What is it exactly that you've used? Details?
Is there some easy way to thread metal?