A Gob

[ElizaLeahy]

Blackwood

[bowl-basher]

you are improving in leaps and bounds nice work
Bowl-Basher

[ElizaLeahy]

I need to get the inside bowl shape without toolmarks. Still getting them and it's annoying! Sometimes they don't show up until I sand.

[hughie]

I need to get the inside bowl shape without toolmarks. Still getting them and it's annoying! Sometimes they don't show up until I sand.

:U dont worry you arent the first, and definitley wont be the last. Other wise a great improvement in ability

[Ad de Crom]

Eliza, well done. Toolmarks, yes I saw toolmarks, on the inside.
Spending more time with fine scraping and sanding brings you the smooth and burnishing surface. Don't worry, happened to me often.
Great job :2tsup:
Ad

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

So, where's the rest of the set? :innocent:

[robutacion]

Hi Eliza,

Tool marks...! yes they are a common thing. Some timbers are worse than others to achieve a smooth finish out of the tool. If I would scale the woodturning expertise, I would divide if in 3 significant steps, 1- leave tools marks that even sandpaper can't remove, 2- mild tool marks that sand paper can easily remove, 3- no tool marks, and absolutely no use of sandpaper.

There are a few turners around the world, that will accept nothing else from their work. No use of sandpaper at all, in any type of wood, require a level of tool steel quality, tool handling skill and sharpening techniques, that only a few will ever master.

In your case Eliza, the tool marks are due to your difficulty in reaching the inside surface and the fact that some of those marks can only been seen after the timber surface is coated.
In regards to sending those sort of surfaces, there are tools that you can purchase and or make yourself, allowing a much better finish. One of the simplest ones to make is what is known in the world of timber polishing, as the "doll", there is a crunched-up piece of soft material (cloth) the size of a golf ball or a tennis ball depending of the size of the recess you have to sand. For the smallest size I would suggest to use a "stick" (hair stick blank, sort off) and rap the cloth around it. Then using soft sandpaper cover the "doll", ball with it and use a strong rubber band to keep it all together at the joint with the stick. Use different grits as per normal.
Also another possibility is the sponge padded sandpaper blocks, found in most hardware stores, they normally "mold" nicely to round surfaces and save your fingertips from getting worn.

For making the tool marks or even sandpaper scratches appear as they normally do after we finish the piece and coat it (then too late), an easy process is to brush generously the surface with Mineral Turpentine. While the surface is wet, you can see all marks need removing, the MT will dry very quickly (couple of minutes) allowing to keep working on the piece. I also recommend that you blow (air) the dust before you use the MT, if you don't have a air compressor use a dry brush to clean the timber surface. You can repeat this process as often as you want, will not affect the timber or the finish you want to use afterwards. (everything in moderation, obviously...!)

You are progressing with your woodturning very nicely indeed, and that goblet show promising development with your techniques. I like goblets, and I like to see other people examples with some of "my" timbers! I wonder if I should send a piece of that famous black wattle, for Eliza to have a go at, what you're reckon previous "challenge" participants?:q:D

Hope some of my info is of assistance to you!

Cheers:2tsup:
RBTCO

[Paul39]

RBTCO#7 above.

Thank you for the sanding advice.

After bashing a fingernail sanding in a bowl with an opening down the side, the rag-stick-soft sandpaper is a wonderful idea.

Eliza, nice goblet. You could make the rag on a stick with sandpaper and cup the bowl shape in one hand and run the sandpaper round and round with the other.

[ElizaLeahy]

Rag on a stick - you should patent that :) (did take the top off my finger yesterday!)

What's the black wattle challenge?

As to using the scraper - would you believe I managed to get a gouge mark out of the scraper?

And - Set????????? What Set!!!!!!!!!! You are lucky to get ONE!

I'm not up to making copies yet :)

Thanks for your replies and advice.

[munruben]

Nice work Eliza, you are improving with every piece.

[artme]

well done Eliza!!:2tsup::2tsup::2tsup:

Were you a turner in a previous life?

[ElizaLeahy]

well done Eliza!!:2tsup::2tsup::2tsup:

Were you a turner in a previous life?


Probably. I did do some turning about 20 years ago when I had a little hardware shop lathe in me goat shed :)

The sawdust got swept into the henhouse about once a week - and then I dug out the hen house once every 6 months and put it on the vegie garden. After that section of the garden was finished I'd put the hens and goats in it. Was great! hardly any cleaning up, unlike now!

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

And - Set????????? What Set!!!!!!!!!! You are lucky to get ONE!

I'm not up to making copies yet :)

:D Don't worry, you're not alone there. :wink: I like the form of your gob, it's a tad thick in the stem for my taste but it still has a pleasing shape & proportions. I'd be quite happy with it if it had come off my lathe. :2tsup:

Although a scraper is supposedly the easiest tool to use, it's still possible to get tool marks... usually "chatter" from either having too much steel overhanging the toolrest or the timber itself is vibrating. The former is simple to fix: either move the toolrest closer in (not always possible) or use a thicker scrape.

If the wood is vibrating - typically either because you've partially turned the stem before hollowing or the walls are very thin - the best you can do is try to damp it down by cupping the wood with one hand while hollowing with the other. Not an elegant solution, but it works (to a degree, anyway) and gets the job finished.

From what I can see of your pix, it's not chatter marks that are your problem but a groove/rough ring running all the way around? (I think?) That's from either a sudden change of direction or an area of tearout and, either way, sanding it out is a long, tedious job. Sanding tends to highlight it rather than remove it as the glossier finish makes reflections more obvious, highlighting the problem. Better to hit it with the scraper again to remove the worst before sanding.

[ElizaLeahy]

"a" grove? Lots of groves! Or so it appears to me.

I have a larger scraper - I didn't think to use it because the job was, you know, smaller.

I didn't have any of the stem cut at that time, just the rough shape of the outside of the cup and the inside of the cup, then I finished the inside, polished it, then stuffed it with rag so I could re use the tailstock on it.

I could have cut the stem much thinner, but I thought that was enough. Next one I'll do really thin, just for you.

I was thinking the other day how proud you would be of me. I got out the big skew that I hadn't used for ages and tried it again and boy it was so smooth. I could even do some beading with it. Now I'm wondering why it gave me trouble before. I guess we just needed a trial seperation.

Anyway, I was thinking "I wish Skew were here, he would be proud of me". Actually, you probabyl would have been horrified, and yelling "put on your safety glasses! Where is your mask! What kind of MESS is this! Is this how you store tools???" But I like my daydream better.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

"a" grove? Lots of groves! Or so it appears to me.

I can only see one rough band in the pic, but I didn't exactly go over it with a microscope.


I have a larger scraper - I didn't think to use it because the job was, you know, smaller.

I don't mean thicker as in width, but thicker as in height. One of my favourite tools is made from 12mm (1/2") square stock. Thick enough to let me overhang the toolrest by up to about 4", while narrow enough to get into small places.


I didn't have any of the stem cut at that time, just the rough shape of the outside of the cup and the inside of the cup, then I finished the inside, polished it, then stuffed it with rag so I could re use the tailstock on it.

Sounds like a workable plan to me. I wouldn't use a rag like that, but if works for you then why not? (Just jealous 'cos I didn't think of it. :rolleyes:)


Anyway, I was thinking "I wish Skew were here, he would be proud of me". Actually, you probabyl would have been horrified, and yelling "put on your safety glasses! Where is your mask! What kind of MESS is this! Is this how you store tools???" But I like my daydream better.

:rotfl: I'm flattered. You obviously haven't seen me playing in my shed... although I do try to always wear safety glasses. (When I can find them and when I remember. :-)

[robutacion]

Rag on a stick - you should patent that :) (did take the top off my finger yesterday!)

What's the black wattle challenge?

As to using the scraper - would you believe I managed to get a gouge mark out of the scraper?

And - Set????????? What Set!!!!!!!!!! You are lucky to get ONE!

I'm not up to making copies yet :)

Thanks for your replies and advice.

Hi Eliza,

You obviously got curious about what I did mention about the black wattle, well, a couple of years ago, I had this idea of providing the timber (local black wattle) to anyone that wanted to make a goblet. This quickly become a challenge and end-up with juries, places and prices. It was then the beginning ( the start, No. I ) of what is know today as the "Timber Challenge" in this forum room.

With a little bit of time to read, this (http://www.woodworkforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=60710) thread can teach you a thing or three...!:doh::D

Have fun...!

Cheers
RBTCO