Turning lumber into workable stock...some questions.

[badgaz]

Howdy good folks

I am starting to amass a collection of good timber, the problem I have is reducing some pretty hefty lumber to "workable stock". My small circular saw is really not up to the challenge (I won't even bother trying it on the iron bark) and I could be there all day with a handsaw.:no:
What do you folks recommend as the most appropriate machine for reducing the timber to a workable size...do I really need a bandsaw, a chainsaw, a table saw, a drop saw etc?
Some of my timber is up to 70mm thick and 200mm across (old fence posts) how do I conceivably turn this into say, 50mm x 50mm stock for tool handles...or even smaller for pens.
I live in Queanbeyan, and I know there's a lumber yard not far from me. Would it be poor form if I took lumber to them and asked them to cut it to specification (especially if the lumber came from elsewhere)? Obviously I would pay them for the work.
If I had to invest in a machine that would cover most bases, would a bandsaw be the answer?

Your thoughts?

Gazza

[SawDustSniffer]

chain saw is what i mostly used for shaping blanks ( big ones )
ill chainsaw down to 100mm so it fits on my small table saw or drop saw for smaller blanks
you can get pretty accurate with a chain saw (well sharpened & Maintained ) also leads to chain saw carving ( just as addictive as turning )
Narrow blade but long length is best ,but 3/8 blade cuts quicker
i don't own a bandsaw but it is on my wish list

[weisyboy]

a lil chainsaw - i have a stihl 170 for cutting small stuff and ripping posts cost $350 and runs 3/8lp chain.

and a bandsaw is also a huge help if you get a bandsaw you wont know yourself. you will have more round bits of wood than you know what to do with.

[GoGuppy]

Would it be poor form if I took lumber to them and asked them to cut it to specification (especially if the lumber came from elsewhere)? Obviously I would pay them for the work.
Gazza
You could try the the local lumber yard, but I think they will be wary of sawing 'foreign' wood.
My neighbour had some reycled wood in large sizes that he got a timber mill to saw on the shop bandsaw. The mill owner was not impressed, when the saw hit a large nail buried in the timber and wrecked his very expesive blade.:o It happened about two years ago and I have forgotten how much the blade cost, but it was a huge sum certainly when compared to the value of the job.
Needless to say that my neighbour is now too embassed to even visit the mill.:C.

[weisyboy]

find a local with a lucas mill. they will surley slice it up for you gfor a carton if you take it to them and there aint to mutch.
]
and it only costs $50 to get the tips done if a nail is in there someware

[robutacion]

Howdy good folks

I am starting to amass a collection of good timber, the problem I have is reducing some pretty hefty lumber to "workable stock". My small circular saw is really not up to the challenge (I won't even bother trying it on the iron bark) and I could be there all day with a handsaw.:no:
What do you folks recommend as the most appropriate machine for reducing the timber to a workable size...do I really need a bandsaw, a chainsaw, a table saw, a drop saw etc?
Some of my timber is up to 70mm thick and 200mm across (old fence posts) how do I conceivably turn this into say, 50mm x 50mm stock for tool handles...or even smaller for pens.
I live in Queanbeyan, and I know there's a lumber yard not far from me. Would it be poor form if I took lumber to them and asked them to cut it to specification (especially if the lumber came from elsewhere)? Obviously I would pay them for the work.
If I had to invest in a machine that would cover most bases, would a bandsaw be the answer?

Your thoughts?

Gazza



G'day Gazza

The chainsaw will be your best mate here!

If where you have the timber is no electricity, a petrol medium size chainsaw (20" bar or so) get's the job done.

If you have electricity a medium quality electric chainsaw does your logs easy. You don't need a bandsaw to make round blanks, but a strong (powerful) circular saw with a 254mm disk mounted under a small table, gives you at least 3" of cut and that will do your square 2" pieces or even smaller (pen blanks). You can buy a complete table-saw for the price of a good makita or similar large circular saw, the problem is that the motors on those cheap table saws just don't have enough power to cut anything over 1" thick, and god forgive if you are trying to cut really hard wood, you burn more than what you cut, even with a brand new blade.

This subject has been extensively discussed previously, and you will find more info than what you can poke a stick on, by doing a search on our archives. To give you a good start have a look at here (http://timberssoul.webs.com/jvlogvicesteelarmshel.htm)

Never hesitate to ask, irregardless if the subject have been discussed extensively or not, everyday we learn something new, and is always someone willing to help. In 10 years from now, someone new will still ask the same question, and that is the way it is, I hope that I will be around to respond but, by then, you have acquired the necessary expertize to guide the new guys & girls, and that is how it should be, huh? well, not that you need 10 years but, you got my drift...!:D

Good luck

Cheers:2tsup:
RBTCO

[Rum Pig]

I use a chain saw and then a mates bandsaw :D
But you use what ever you can get your hands on just remember safety first.
With your timber mill I would phone them up or pay them a visit and tell them exactly what you have and want, even mention there could be a small chance of nails in there they may have something to detect such pests. Most people are very helpful especially if there is something in it for them like a nice bowl or a couple of pens you never know your luck you may find your self inundated with timber off cuts:U

[mic-d]

wedges, sledgehammer, froe, , handsaws, drawknife, scrubplane and foreplane:q

You chainsaw fellas are all pussies!:q:D:D
Cheers
Michael

[BobL]

Some of my timber is up to 70mm thick and 200mm across (old fence posts) how do I conceivably turn this into say, 50mm x 50mm stock for tool handles...or even smaller for pens.

I see the chainsaw junkies have come out of the woodwork but obviously haven't read your specifications.

I'm also a mad chainsaw user but you definitely do not need a chainsaw for 70 x 200 timber. A bandsaw is far better for this size timber since it will turn less wood into sawdust. You can also rip a 70 mm thick piece into boards or pen blanks with a band saw far easier than a chainsaw.

[Manuka Jock]

Gazza ,
wood that measures up at 200mm x 70mm , is good bowl and platter material .

Can you trade it for pen blanks with another turner ?
It seems a shame to slice large chunks like them up into twigs .

[Ozkaban]

I'd go with the bandsaw for that size timber. I don't have one and don't have the space for it, but both problems are very high on my list... I've converted a bunch of hardwood fence posts to pen blanks and up to 50mm square by about 300 long with a drop saw and the triton table.

There is an article in this months issue of AWR by Mike Darlow about this topic, and most work was done on a bandsaw. Admitedly he was reducing logs and slabs (not fence posts) to turning blanks but it was an interesting read...

cheers,
Dave

[bellyup]

G'day Badsaz,
I've just gone through the process of buying a bandsaw to cut up some pretty tough and sizeable timbers (Belah,Mulga and Redgum), I have both an electric and petrol chainsaw - they do a great job but let me tell you once you get a good bandsaw you'll be wondering why you put off getting one for so long.
I tried to do without for a long while, putting up with roughly cut, unbalanced lumps of wood whirling around and chasing a vibrating lathe all over the shed.
With the advice from the boys on these pages I bought a 2hp (really,really glad I got the 2 horsepower !) Scheppach 15" bandsaw and a couple of good blades from Henry Bros. I've been happily slicing and dicing my way through half a garage floor full of timber now that it's less that 50+deg. in the shed. Boy, what a difference good blades make to the process - Henry Bros aptly described the original blade as"hoop iron with blunt teeth" - spot on really.
The other good thing is you don't lose as much timber to sawdust if you cut smaller pieces of timber. Go the bandsaw!!!

[orraloon]

It sort of depends how round you want the blanks to be. A small chainsaw will be the most cost effective tool to start with. Cut the blanks square(ish) then trim off the corners. Of course as you progress with turning you will want a good bandsaw later and perhaps a table saw and scms too. That's the obsession bit kicking in. In the past I have even cut blanks out by hand. If you have to get some wood on the lathe then anything goes. I should point out that the bandsaw although costly is perhaps the safest way to cut turning blanks.
Regards
John

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Some pretty good advice here.

A chainsaw and bandsaw would be the most common "kit" especially if you're interested in bowl blanks.

However, for spindle turning blanks - pens, tool handles, etc. - a set of wedges and a good solid knife (a la machete :D) can be very handy. Best used when the grains fairly straight, of course, but you can break down a log into suitable pieces pretty quickly.

I use wedges to break the log into "slabs" and then use a machete and hammer to break up the slabs. Just like making kindling, only larger! Once you've broken a log down into sticks, there's no work at all in trimming 'em to suitable lengths with a handsaw as and when needed. :wink:

Sure, they may not be nice, square and smooth to the touch... but a few seconds with a roughing gouge makes that a moot point. :D

[Sawdust Maker]

What Skew :aro-u::aro-u: said
at the end of the day doesn't have to look good when it goes onto the lathe only when it leaves!!

[Sawdust Maker]

PS
if you're collecting too much timber I don't mind driving down and helping with the clearing of the shelves exercise :D

[Willy Nelson]

Hello Gazza
Yep big chainsaw, big bandsaw! Or

Join a guild, meet like minded members and someone, or the guild, may already have the equipment you are seeking.
I would suggest the buddy system, you may have a capability that someone else needs in return for wood being milled.
You may also be willing to give a percentage of your milled wood in return.
You don't need to rush out and buy the gear (unless you want to)
Regards
Willy

[badgaz]

...that's what's so good about this forum....so much to learn and so many willing to offer advice.

As it happens just last night, a friend offered me the use of his BIG Hitachi circular saw. It turns out that the bloke was a keen axeman in earlier times and has little use for "electric tools".
I told him it was a waste to have such an expensive bit of kit sitting doing nothing.
He replied "if you want to shake the spiders out of it, you can borrow it any time". He asked for nothing in return but I'm sure a few beers and nice pen will settle the balance of his offer.
Amazing things happen when the conversation turns to wood, don't you think?

Ultimately I think a bandsaw is the way to go.

BTW I prefer to turn from square. Preshaping the stock takes some of the fun out of it.

All the best
Gazza

[badgaz]

PS
if you're collecting too much timber I don't mind driving down and helping with the clearing of the shelves exercise :D

If you're making the drive to QBN you must check out AJAA timber yard. Half a day scrounging around their timber yard will yield some excellent turning timbers...at reasonable prices, especially for off-cuts.

Gazza

[Ed Reiss]

What do you folks recommend as the most appropriate machine for reducing the timber to a workable size

Gazza

...a Star Wars laser sabre :whistling2:

[mic-d]

Uhoh, circular saw + irregular shaped wood = trouble + danger
Big circular saw + irregular shaped wood = big trouble + big danger
If you're bent on using it, clamp the wood firmly, and not in a way that will bind the kerf. Keep both hands on the saw with a very firm grip and stand out to the side of the saw, so that when it kicks back you are not in its path. Do not ever, never, never, never use one hand to steady the wood.

WARNING (http://www.smh.com.au/news/health/slicedoff-finger-saved-by-surgeons/2008/07/26/1216492804084.html) Link

Cheers
Michael


...that's what's so good about this forum....so much to learn and so many willing to offer advice.

As it happens just last night, a friend offered me the use of his BIG Hitachi circular saw. It turns out that the bloke was a keen axeman in earlier times and has little use for "electric tools".
I told him it was a waste to have such an expensive bit of kit sitting doing nothing.
He replied "if you want to shake the spiders out of it, you can borrow it any time". He asked for nothing in return but I'm sure a few beers and nice pen will settle the balance of his offer.
Amazing things happen when the conversation turns to wood, don't you think?

Ultimately I think a bandsaw is the way to go.

BTW I prefer to turn from square. Preshaping the stock takes some of the fun out of it.

All the best
Gazza

[badgaz]

Fortunately all the wood I have has been pre-dressed or milled in some way. I don't have any irregular shapes as yet. The problem is some of the planks are too thick for my circular saw to cut through (I could do an over and under pass but that seems like a bad idea...which it probably is):;

The mission is to cut them into square profile lengths without letting the smoke out of my circular saw. The best option seems to be a bandsaw which will require funding and approval from the "War Office" SWMBO.

Here's the latest handle. Bowl gouge with ash handle with the preferred stock profile sitting next to it .

All the best Gazza

[mic-d]

Fortunately all the wood I have has been pre-dressed or milled in some way. I don't have any irregular shapes as yet. The problem is some of the planks are too thick for my circular saw to cut through (I could do an over and under pass but that seems like a bad idea...which it probably is):;

No, that would be OK. Set the circ up to cut just over half. Use the saw fence to rip a cut, flip the work end for end and run the other cut.

The mission is to cut them into square profile lengths without letting the smoke out of my circular saw. The best option seems to be a bandsaw which will require funding and approval from the "War Office" SWMBO.

Here's the latest handle. Bowl gouge with ash handle with the preferred stock profile sitting next to it .

All the best Gazza

Cheers
Michael

[Evan Pavlidis]

Uhoh, circular saw + irregular shaped wood = trouble + danger
Big circular saw + irregular shaped wood = big trouble + big danger
If you're bent on using it, clamp the wood firmly, and not in a way that will bind the kerf. Keep both hands on the saw with a very firm grip and stand out to the side of the saw, so that when it kicks back you are not in its path. Do not ever, never, never, never use one hand to steady the wood.

WARNING (http://www.smh.com.au/news/health/slicedoff-finger-saved-by-surgeons/2008/07/26/1216492804084.html) Link

Cheers
Michael


Wished I never opened that link :o :o :oo: :oo:


Evan