What makes a good lathe glove ?

[JDarvall]

I've gone through 2 of my wifes gardening gloves.
my welding glove.
a couple of riggers gloves
cricket gloves from the op shop.

all the left hand ones, so I got a whole lot of right hand ones if someone wants them. :D

Can you buy lathe gloves specially suited for the lathe ? Something with good wear resistance. (and something that doesn't cost a fortune )

ta

Jake

[robyn2839]

IMHO i think lathe gloves would be dangerous, as feel is important for a safe operation of a lathe,could also catch on turning objects, slip on toolrest,hinder switching on and off,????????????.............bob

[rsser]

Maybe a tight fitting motorbike glove Jake; an unlined one; they usually come with double palm thickness.

Where are yours wearing?

Added: the cheap riggers' etc gloves from Bunnies are rubbish. Maybe check out a safety shop for decent riggers gloves.

[Willy Nelson]

I rarely use gloves, unless I am turning end grain of a large item. I find the material being removed is hot and flies off fast into my left hand. I have the same (left glove) in use for over 5 years.
May I suggest dive gloves, the leather and kevlar gloves which us poor West Australian divers must use when we handle hundreds of cray fish each year (TIC). Other glove-Buffalo (meant to to be the toughest) at $30 pr, they should be.
Regards
Willy

[JDarvall]

index mostly and thumb.

I'll try and find a good bike glove, but I'm worried it'll eventually wear through too.

trying to think of someplace where people hold spinning object, and the only thing I can picture is oil rigs with blokes holding onto drill bits. :D

Its gota be some sort of material thats still flexible though, so I can grip with my hand.

I gota have a glove though. Its important for a lot of my turning work. Steadys are too slow. just getting a bit tired of them wearing through. Only a couple of days use and there gone.

[JDarvall]

I rarely use gloves, unless I am turning end grain of a large item. I find the material being removed is hot and flies off fast into my left hand. I have the same (left glove) in use for over 5 years.
May I suggest dive gloves, the leather and kevlar gloves which us poor West Australian divers must use when we handle hundreds of cray fish each year (TIC). Other glove-Buffalo (meant to to be the toughest) at $30 pr, they should be.
Regards
Willy

ta mate. Give that buffalo glove a go. any idea where to get it ?

[ss_11000]

so, are you actually holding onto the spinning wood with the glove on?

I would have thought the only safe way to wear a glove would be as willy described (having hot chips flying onto your hand which is holding the chisel).

[JDarvall]

so, are you actually holding onto the spinning wood with the glove on?

I would have thought the only safe way to wear a glove would be as willy described (having hot chips flying onto your hand which is holding the chisel).

yes........I don't understand this safety issue. My turnings are only around 20mm thick at most. And I've done a few hundred of them already.

suspect its one of those issues of overconcern.

[Grumpy John]

.......................Something with good wear resistance. (and something that doesn't cost a fortune )

ta

Jake


You get what you pay for. Holding spinning wood creates friction, friction creates wear. Even the best gloves will wear out eventually.

[ss_11000]

yes........I don't understand this safety issue. My turnings are only around 20mm thick at most. And I've done a few hundred of them already.

suspect its one of those issues of overconcern.
faair enough then jake. if anything was to catch, the timber (at that thickness) would probably snap before it does any damage to you :)

[bowl-basher]

Get yourself a pair of decent riggesrs gloves should cost around $9.00 form any welder suipply or saftey shop
Nice tight fit with good feel
Regards
Bowl-Basher

[DJ’s Timber]

So you're after after a glove to hold thin spindle items whilst turning, not to deflect shavings whilst turning?

You might be better off with a graphite type pad like they use on Belt Sanders rather than gloves themselves.

[INVENTOR]

For those who want turning gloves ( without fingers etc) I find that weight lifters gloves are ideal. My pair are thick leather ( double on the palm) all over. Which is good as your knuckles are protected. Some fingerless gloves only have thin backs and are much more expensive.

I hope this helps.

[new_guy90]

i would try and get a softer glove not rough and not with any stuff that will rub onto the wood. i get what you mean steadying the wood gets hot and if it has wax on its even hotter but i would rub candle wax on the work and the gloves, it would get hot but might help.

Patrick

[Tim the Timber Turner]

I've gone through 2 of my wifes gardening gloves.
my welding glove.
a couple of riggers gloves
cricket gloves from the op shop.

all the left hand ones, so I got a whole lot of right hand ones if someone wants them. :D

Jake

Hi Jake

If you turn all your right handed gloves inside-out you will have a whole new supply of left handed gloves.

The only problem being that the stiching wears through quicker than normal.

Worth doing for a bit extra wear. :2tsup:

Cheers

Tim

[joe greiner]

Gloves for turning are generally advised against, because of possible danger. But if you've managed to work with them, on only your turnings, the danger is reduced. The closer the fit, the better the safety.

If your major concern is using the whole pair of gloves, one way might be to become ambidextrous. I'm not kidding; sometimes it's convenient to turn left-handed. Same with billiards. I haven't tried bowling that way yet.

Cheers,
Joe

[oldiephred]

Maybe try gluing some thin metal or teflon or other plastic to the wear points?:?
Lotsa luk wi that prob.

[bsrlee]

If you are just using it as a steady, why don't you just get some hides of leather - chrome tanned 1-2mm thick. Then cut some strips 3"-4" (75-100) wide, cross cut if you feel the need. Start near one end, then just move along a bit as you get holes. Like making sandpaper pads.

If you are lucky you may find somewhere like 'Reverse Garbage' (community recyclers of industrial junk) that has leather or canvas off cuts of a suitable size for a few dollars a garbage bag.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Have you tried a String Steady, Jake?

Basically just a U-shaped piece of ply, bottom of the U bolted to the ways and a couple of cup-hooks on each arm of the U.

With practice it only takes a second or two to make the "cat's cradle" around the blank to support it, or to remove the string to get it out of the way. :) Much, much quicker than a Wheel Steady to set up, although it doesn't provide as much support.

Then again, your fingers don't really provide that much support either. :wink:

[underfoot]

Maybe try gluing some thin metal or teflon or other plastic the

there are a number high abrasive resistant plastics about, Delrin comes to mind, available in all sizes down to 0.5 mm sheet. patches glued with a heat resistant contact (gelgrip)
to wear points might work

[dr4g0nfly]

My preference is for a fingerless sailing glove made from Cordura and suede with a Kevlar palm. It's tight fitting, no hinderence to my sense of touch and the Kevlar protects me when I slow my turning by putting my hand on it.

The only drawback is they are not so cheep and I only tend to wear the left one.

[Woodwould]

I'll second the Kevlar suggestion. Kevlar is virtually impossible to cut even with scissors. I've seen single kevlar left-hand carver's gloves for sale just recently on some wood working site, so that may be the go.

Alternatively, as mentioned above, a thin sheet of acetal (Delrin is the US company Dupont's trade name for acetal) either glued (very difficult) or stitched across the grip region of a glove might work.

[hughie]

Maybe try gluing some thin metal or teflon or other plastic to the wear points?:?
Lotsa luk wi that prob.

Hmm short of sticking abunch of little wheels on the glove. I dont think there really good answer to your problem
Any plastic we use will leave some sort of marks. Teflon in its pure state is too soft, the various forms of filled teflon wear much better but are harder and would leave marks.

UHMWV might do at a pinch or one of its derivatives

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ultra_high_molecular_weight_polyethylene


bit of a hard this one

My use of gloves is generally for the hand that steadies the gouge on the rest and its more for protection from flying hot chips etc.

[tea lady]

Hmm short of sticking abunch of little wheels on the glove. I dont think there really good answer to your problem
Any plastic we use will leave some sort of marks. Teflon in its pure state is too soft, the various forms of filled teflon wear much better but are harder and would leave marks.

UHMWV might do at a pinch or one of its derivatives

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ultra_high_molecular_weight_polyethylene


bit of a hard this one

My use of gloves is generally for the hand that steadies the gouge on the rest and its more for protection from flying hot chips etc.

:think: I like that idea. :wandersoffpondering: What we need is a palm covered in ball barrings. :cool:

[soundman]

There are gloves that plumbers use when working with drain snakes that have metal buttons all over the plams..... but I don't think that is the go.

I have a problem with riggers gloves wearing thru on the fingers just handling firewood and bricks.....the riggers gloves are pretty soft when you come down to it.
Harder or heavier gloves might be a go.... but leather is leather and the variation will be small.

I dont think the graphite slip cloth is a good idea because it will dirty the wood, if thet wood is pale and open grained it will be impossible to get the graphite out..... not to mention getting it all over your fingers and everything else.

likewise wax... it will contaminate the turned surface and unless you are finishing with wax alone this presents a real problem.

I don't know about the kevlar.... there might be possibilities.

But there are issues with most of the plastics, either with heat or surface contamination.

Have you thaught about using leather or cloth strips.

cheers

[martrix]

i think its a bad idea to be using you hand as a steady. If your going to be doing heaps of these you are best to make a dedicated steady. Not only is it safer but surely your hand must get tired?

If you must use gloves, get some of the graphite pad that is used on belt sanders/etc and glue it to the glove. It will take ages to wear through and will also reduce heat because it has SFA friction.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41RMH0Z4QGL._SL500_AA280_.jpg

[Texian]

Hughie nailed it. Make a hand-held V-block of ultra-high-molecular weight polyethylene to steady with. Very smooth, very abrasion resistant, and there are probably many types available since I first used it about 30 years ago.

[Sawdust Maker]

You probably know where the wear patterns are, so how about gluing leather to those spots on the new glow and replace as needed. Sort of like resoling shoes.

I find that I often need a glove on the left hand to take away the pain of the chips etc hitting it

[NeilS]

I always use gloves when I am turning. Can't imagine what the safety concerns are. Started using them because turning tools were freezing first thing in the morning in winter, while rubbing bevels and freshly ground tools get hot. Now I wear them all the time for comfort (and safety). I like a tight fitting glove.

The quality of rigging gloves varies greatly. Price is not always an indicator of quality. Most hardware shops gloves are not much good. Eventually found a ladies (tight fit) gardening glove at local nursery that lasts twice as long for about the same price. Are soft but have a highly finished, more durable, surface. Cream colour, not tan. They now last me months, but I don't use them very often as a steady because I don't do a lot of spindle work. But hand sanding takes its toll.

Like yours Jake, one glove always wears out before the other. Same finger as yours, plus side of thumb. Used to repair them (mainly re-stitching and patching) but now just write them off as running costs and add that to the job. Have a box full of single gloves and looking for a lefthander to team up with... :D

Sorry, I can't help with an exotic solution.

Neil

[Woodwould]

I don't know why I didn't think of it before, but when turning some chair spindles once, I used a big solid lump of knotty Oak as a hand-held support. I drilled a hole in the Oak and then cut it in two on the bandsaw, exposing a scetion of the hole, less than half its diameter.

I held this lump of Oak so it just kissed the spindle and its mass made sure it didn't move much. It wouldn't have been as efficient as a correctly set-up lathe steady, but it was quick and dirty and stopped the chatter which was all that was required of it.

[JDarvall]

ta. read everything. thankyou kindly for the ideas.

I gota stick with a glove over a steady. It just too quick to ignore. I can get a spindle done up to 700mm from 20mm square stock in like 10minutes with a glove. Cause I can quickly ruff in with it from the very beginning to the end killing all that whip with my left hand.

I can't see how introducing a steady into the process is going to keep it all practical. It'll probably double if not triple the time it takes to make a spindle. and 10minutes a steady is already a bit iffy. uno. and I've gota make hundreds of them. :rolleyes:

Whats doing the damage to the glove mostly I think is the scratching of those 4 edges of the stock while ruffing in.

With regards to the worry of certain materials damaging the turning. Like some plastics etc. Thats not a problem for me in this situation, cause, I steam bend these spindles after, which leaves compression marks and steel marks etc.....that I have shave and sand latter anyway.

So, I'm thinking maybe glue on that belt sander pad thing that was mentioned onto a glove. maybe I'll be able to still grip well with me fingertips with it. Feel like a dill for not turning those right handed gloves inside out. :D ta for that.

How bout a really fine chain mail sort of glove that butches have. or handling sharks.

thanks again. giving me heaps of ideas.

[hughie]

With regards to the worry of certain materials damaging the turning. Like some plastics etc. Thats not a problem for me in this situation, cause, I steam bend these spindles after, which leaves compression marks and steel marks etc.....that I have shave and sand latter anyway.


Well if thats the case just make a suitably shaped block/wear pad up out of say Ertalon range which is a filled teflon material. or some of the UHWMV range of material. Check out your local plastic mob.

If you get stuck pm me I have a chunk of ertalon I could slice a bit off for you.

[JDarvall]

thanks mate. see what happens.