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wheelinround
12th May 2009, 05:46 PM
Got a few bowls going at the moment all 3 just about done
timbers are

Jacaranda lidded with Jarrah rim some hand sanding and finish to apply

NSW Rosewood a lid & finial to make yet

Unknown given to me by Brendon who picked it up of the side of the road my fist attempt at natural edged bowl this has been a sanding nightmare. Having used everything I could think of using to sand with to get end grain to settle and become smooth finally using Macadamia oil a quick sand wet leaving it overnight to harden sanding some more and more and more....................more....finaly almost there. I would have prefered if the timber stayed light coloured like the inside :no:

This is between :doh:sanding :~ two tables thats on another thread.

Ad de Crom
12th May 2009, 06:27 PM
Ray, endgrain turning is always a nightmare. My way to tackle this is using a rasor sharp scraper, not always with the success I want, I guess it's depend of the woodspieces.
But the nicest thing is seeing you back at work, a sign for me that you are OK.
One friendly remark, take more attention on making finials. My finials looks pretty bad, till my dear girl penfriend Pam, put me on that point, her finials are so perfect, she told me to take more time on making finials, and telling me that a good looking finial is the crown on your work. Never to old to learn a new trick, and that for such an old guy like me :D
Happy turning.
Ad :2tsup:

wheelinround
12th May 2009, 06:42 PM
Ad thanks for the comments

Yes once these are finished thats my plan spend time making finials

this was more a knob as the lid is a tight fit. a fancy finial was in mind bt hey often things go wrong and breakages happen so you have to do whats best or start over.

tea lady
12th May 2009, 07:18 PM
Yes! We need another poll. "is endgrain overrated?":D:D I like the lidded log.:cool:

orraloon
12th May 2009, 07:38 PM
I am sure we all have had that problem. Sometimes it is best to just have another skim with a sharpened scraper after a wipe with oil.
It is one of the quirks of turning that sometimes one piece ends up with no tearout and the next bit of the same wood just wont play the game no way no how.
Regards
John

dai sensei
12th May 2009, 07:45 PM
If you think the outside was bad, wait to you get to the inside :U

Calm
12th May 2009, 07:55 PM
Yes! We need another poll. "is endgrain overrated?":D:D I like the lidded log.:cool:

I think we need a poll to see if polls are overrated.:p:p:D:D

wheelinround
12th May 2009, 09:40 PM
If you think the outside was bad, wait to you get to the inside :U

Neil the outside was a breeze the :(( inside has been the PIA

John I did just that not once but 3 times :roll: with a sharpened tool

Thanks TL its has a certain look me thinks

powderpost
12th May 2009, 09:52 PM
I use a technique called shear scraping. This technique is difficult to describe with words alone. Suggest you look for someone closer to show you how. Well done this technique can almost eliminate sanding. Sorry, that is the best I can offer.
Jim

Cliff Rogers
12th May 2009, 10:30 PM
Yup, shear scrape works for me. :2tsup:

If I have a piece that is particularly crook & I think it is worth to time, I'll try wetting the end grain with a damp cloth, lightly shear scrap til it is dry & then wet it again.
I have also had some success with some pieces by giving it a quick coat of sanding sealer or shellac, wait a minute or 2 for it to dry & then lightly shear scrape.

Try all & in different combinations.

wheelinround
12th May 2009, 10:38 PM
Powderpost & Cliff thats fine for outside, how does this work in side a bowl such as the natural edge above where there is just enough room to get the tool in at the angle required??

I was almost taking bark off the rim area as it was trying to reach in under the inside

Cliff Rogers
12th May 2009, 10:42 PM
Either,
1. A bowl gouge rolled over so the bevel isn't rubbing.
(It becomes a scraper & if you use the curved bit, you can get a shear scrape)

2. A small round nose scraper tipped up a bit.

Cliff Rogers
12th May 2009, 10:51 PM
Here is a picture of how, I know the sample piece is very shallow but you get the idea.

Give it a try on a bit of scrap.

http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=77782&d=1215950446

wheelinround
13th May 2009, 08:33 AM
:2tsup: Thanks Cliff will try that

Ray

rsser
13th May 2009, 01:27 PM
The other thing to watch for is tool chatter. This may be hard to sense but gives you a carp finish.

You prob know this but try to get your rest as close to the cutting point as possible.

And often scraping or cutting will work cleanest if the cutting edge is at about 45 degrees to the travel of the piece. (That's my definition of shear.) That can be hard to achieve as your form goes deeper so a teardrop scraper is often resorted to for this. There are also specialised end grain tools like cup cutters, the Berger Viking (IIRC) or the Martel hook tool that help.

rsser
13th May 2009, 04:22 PM
Another thing (having just come in from hollowing out some coarse-grained silky): take small cuts. Pref with small tools but the tighter radius at the bottom of a bowl gouge with a parabolic curved flute works well too. See the profile of a Henry Taylor Superflute to get the idea.

wheelinround
13th May 2009, 06:16 PM
Took bowl to OTGA for close inspection and was told its not all that bad :2tsup: a possible sanding in reverse mode could help.

Cliff Rogers
13th May 2009, 06:43 PM
.... possible sanding in reverse mode could help.
Make sure the chuck is locked on somehow.
Minne all have grub screws so they can't come loose.

wheelinround
13th May 2009, 07:12 PM
Make sure the chuck is locked on somehow.
Minne all have grub screws so they can't come loose.


I will Cliff somewhere in my archive I have a schematic for fitting a reversing switch for the Jet Mini one day I may get round to making it up. By then the bowl will be long gone I hope :;

I have thought about having a shaft made to fit the handwheel side so I can put the chuck onto it and sand :rolleyes: right above the switch box for VS :doh:

powderpost
13th May 2009, 10:07 PM
Shear scraping is a gentle finishing cut and can be done safely without a tool rest, exactly the same as using a cabinet scraper on a flat board. On thin platters I let my left hand rest on the platter on the opposite side from the tool, obviously with the use of a tool rest. Inside bowls are shear scraped with a curved edge scraper ground to about 45 degrees and honed til an edge is turned up and held at an angle to the surface.
Jim