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jefferson
2nd June 2009, 11:37 PM
I've just had a good friend - Indigo Valley and still yet to post - over for dinner. Brown trout that he caught in the Eucumbene River, salad and some nice white.

He really likes the platter that and I turned a month ago. He even likes the one I posted a few days back. Paul is happy to pay, but I want to give it to him FOC.

But he wants me initial / mark it with my name and probably the date.

I haven't got into this side of things before. Should I carve my initials or burn something in the wood?

I'd probably prefer to have a stamp made and either punch my initials in or burn them in. My free-hand aint so good.

I've been reluctant to mark anything I've turned (poor quality etc) thus far, but it might be time to think about putting my mark on what I turn.

As always, thoughts/ suggestions welcome.

And again, thanks to my fellow forumites.

Jeff

tea lady
2nd June 2009, 11:40 PM
I've started to think about this too. One or two recent turnings I could just about put my name on I think. :think: Also wondering how though! :shrug: One recent thing had a very concave base. Signing that could be a challenge. :doh:

Skew ChiDAMN!!
2nd June 2009, 11:49 PM
http://www.cws.au.com/cgi/index.cgi/shopfront/view_by_category?category_id=1107146872

:innocent:

Waldo
3rd June 2009, 12:18 AM
:aro-u: You just like lighting fires. :U

A makers mark like Albrect Duerer has always appealed to me.

I keep meaning myself to look into those brass oval makers thingos, there was a thread about them ages ago, one day I'll get and around to it.

Burnsy
3rd June 2009, 12:33 AM
When I was doing the local markets another guy who I got to know was marking his work with just a regular stamp he had made up and black permanent ink. It looked really effective and surprisingly did not smudge or anything when he finished over it with oil. I recall he told me that he once put it on after the first coat of oil as he had forgotten to do it and it still worked. Could be worth a try as you can get rubber stamps made up really cheap and permanent ink on a stamp would be easier to do than burning with a brand.

Cliff Rogers
3rd June 2009, 09:52 AM
I carefully write it in pencil & then go over it with a Pyrography tool.
It is not always the best as I also have crappy hand writing & some timber is not suitable.

The most effective markings I have seen are done with a fine tip permanent marker & a good hand, something I can't do. :(

NeilS
3rd June 2009, 10:27 AM
This topic has been covered in a previous thread. Haven't got time to look now but will do so again if nobody else finds it.

OK, looked it up now. This was the thread here (http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=76324&highlight=signature) (my thoughts in post #9), but also found other less comprehensive discussions here (http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=55117&highlight=monika) and here (http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=55544&highlight=signature).

Neil

Sawdust Maker
3rd June 2009, 10:51 AM
I use this one (http://www.carbatec.com.au/pyrography-pens/peter-brenn-pyrography-pens-pens-accessories/peter-brenn-starter-hot-poker-pyrography-pens-kit) from Carbi, but got it on special - looks a lot like a soldering iron (don't know if one of them would work?)

brendan stemp
3rd June 2009, 02:05 PM
If you want to get a branding iron of your own design/signature made this guy will do it for you. www.cnccreations.com.au

NeilS
3rd June 2009, 10:08 PM
Links to previous threads on this topic have now been added to post #7.

Neil

dai sensei
3rd June 2009, 10:24 PM
I use the Razertip pyrograph tool with ball tips (see here (http://www.cws.au.com/cgi/index.cgi/shopfront/view_product_details?category_id=1107144911&product_id=1107456680)) of varying sizes (0.4mm, 1mm to 2mm I think) for different sized print. The ball type stylis works a treat for writing.

echnidna
3rd June 2009, 10:54 PM
I seriously considered a branding iron or buying makers marks then decided that precision markings really look like the markings used by the chinese and indian factories.

So I'll hand mark my stuff in future, whether pyrographic or carved or simple hand embossed metal I'm still tossing about, though I like the idea of hand embossed brass plates.

Alastair
4th June 2009, 11:00 AM
FWIW, I use the opportunity to include signing, timber and date.

The format I use is borrowed from my late mother, who signed her pewter and copper craft in this fashion.

ALB Original
Silky Oak
2009


After sanding of the base is complete, I write into the base recess, using a fine tip texta, allow to dry for a minute or so, then finish as usual, before reversing for hollowing.

regards

Cliff Rogers
4th June 2009, 11:20 AM
....

After sanding of the base is complete, I write into the base recess, using a fine tip texta, allow to dry for a minute or so, then finish as usual, before reversing for hollowing.

regards
This certainly looks the best BUT... it only looks good if you have a neat hand, I don't. :(

issatree
4th June 2009, 11:47 AM
Hi All,I sign every article I make. I use an ARTLINE 0.4 BLACK 200 Felt Tip Pen. A pack of 4 from Officeworks is around $9.50. If you remember to recap the pen, they will last at least 6 months. Don't use EEE over your signiture or it will rasp it off, You have to write on the WOOD not after you have polished, it won't work,nor over oil, if you do you pen goes to the bin.I'm told I have a bit of a hand,so I,m lucky. I write My Name, then,Geelong Australia, the Date (462009) also as a Catalouge No. I then print the name of the wood, & then I put whatever finish I'm going to use on the item. I have used this method since 1984. Even on Kitchen Ware that gets washed a fair bit, lasts quite a No. of years. I have found only WATER will have an effect on the Felt Tip Pen. That's my lot.
REGARDS,
ISSATREE.

powderpost
4th June 2009, 10:15 PM
I use a fine tip textra pen. I find it best to seal the wood with sanding sealer first then lacquer over the lot. As mentioned before, further surface treatment before lacquer can remove the writing. I only sign anything I would claim as mine, otherwise its bar-b-cue wood.
Jim