Woodwork Forums - Blogs http://www.woodworkforums.com/blogs/ Discussion Forums for everything to do with woodworking and allied crafts. Includes employment, blogs, woodieswiki, wooden boats, woodworking women, disabled woodworking, and a whole lot more. en Tue, 22 May 2012 07:53:43 GMT vBulletin 60 http://www.woodworkforums.com/images/misc/rss.jpg Woodwork Forums - Blogs http://www.woodworkforums.com/blogs/ For sale woodturning lathe package http://www.woodworkforums.com/blogs/drillit/sale-woodturning-lathe-package-895/ Fri, 30 Dec 2011 04:23:43 GMT Members are invited to my Ebay listing (seller info 368johnm, item no. 150726708207) of a woodturning lathe package, including many tools and accessories. The equipment package includes, WL 20 swivel head, 10 speed lathe, 6" bandsaw, bench drill and compound mitresaw. All equipment is in very good condition and well maintained. I am asking $600. Pictures and full details at listing. This is an excellent beginner/intermediate package. The equipment is for sale as a result of my upgrading. I reside at Normanhurst and will supply details on request. I am reluctant to split the package. Your interest is welcomed. Thanks, John M. ]]> Drillit http://www.woodworkforums.com/blogs/drillit/sale-woodturning-lathe-package-895/ Launch Day - Take 2 http://www.woodworkforums.com/blogs/hawk/launch-day-take-2-894/ Tue, 27 Dec 2011 03:58:58 GMT Well it was a long time coming. After the first failed attempt I was not leaving anything to chance. I tested the seal on the centreboard before even considering heading to the water. I also waited for a day when I wouldn't be hurried and would be able to enjoy the first (OK...second) launching.

Westlakes was the chosen launch place, just near the rowing club. The day was a treat. A gentle breeze before lunch that would pick up a bit in the afternoon.

It took a little longer to rig than anticipated, however I was making sure everything was OK. One of my concerns was the stays. They're made from galvanised wire, and have some corrosion in places. I wouldn't want to take them into a strong breeze as they are.

The minor problems that I had...the elastic used to keep the rudder down has lost it's elasticity, and allowed the rudder to pop back up. A bit of a fudge allowed us to keep sailing, and I'll replace it before we next sail. There was a very minor leak along the king plank that I'll need to keep an eye on, but I don't have to do anything about it yet.

All in all it was very successful. The boat looks a treat on the water ad sails very nicely. With just kids sailing it would be quite lively, however with an adult and a couple of kids it was just fine.

I look forward to the next time Driftwood hits the beach.
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]]> Hawk http://www.woodworkforums.com/blogs/hawk/launch-day-take-2-894/ more hints for design thinking http://www.woodworkforums.com/blogs/rufflyrustic/more-hints-design-thinking-893/ Fri, 09 Dec 2011 22:56:48 GMT “perbush”
P roption – Does it echo certain shapes in different sizes? (e.g. small square and big square)
E mphasis – Where does your eye begin when you first look at the piece? (e.g. red dot)
R hythm – Are there pathways that lead the eyes of the viewer around? (e.g. lines or neutral colors)
B alance – Did you think about the left side as much as you did about the right side or top and bottom?
U nity – How much variety of shapes & colors are their in the piece that it doesn’t look too much?
S cale – Is it the right size and where do you think of placing/displaying it?
H armony – Are you happy with the overall piece?
Nico Jose; Sculptor, Painter, Furniture Maker, HOME - NICO JOSE artist


Wendell Castle's 10 adopted rules of thumb (add a little circled c here)
1. If you are in love with an idea, you are no judge of its beauty or value.
2. It is difficult to see the whole picture when you are inside the frame.
3. After learning the tricks of the trade, don't think you know the trade.
4. We hear and apprehend what we already know.
5. The dog that stays on the porch will find no bones.
6. Never state a problem to yourself in the same terms it was brought to you.
7. If it's offbeat or surprising, it's probably useful.
8. If you do not expect the unexpected, you will not find it.
9. Don't get too serious.
10. If you hit the bull's eye every time, the target is too near. ]]> RufflyRustic http://www.woodworkforums.com/blogs/rufflyrustic/more-hints-design-thinking-893/ Update Time http://www.woodworkforums.com/blogs/cruzi/update-time-892/ Wed, 30 Nov 2011 02:23:31 GMT Since I've been out of action, have waaay to much time on my hands but thought I'd share a rare gem from YouTube.

Found this guy who calls himself Potholer54 (Peter Hadfeild) and he has an introduction video. :2tsup:

Who I am - YouTube

He has done a series on Climate Change:

potholer54's Channel - YouTube

It takes some time, about 3 hours over 19 videos but I cannot recommend him highly enough.

It is so refreshing to see reasoned, intelligent well researched information being presented.

He also does the Golden Crocaduck Awards, having a bit of fun with Creationists as well as a series for schools on science made easy.

So you can guess what is filling my time for now, hope to be able to build again in a few months. ]]> Cruzi http://www.woodworkforums.com/blogs/cruzi/update-time-892/ Interesting Rosewood Timber Species Available http://www.woodworkforums.com/blogs/sailog/interesting-rosewood-timber-species-available-891/ Wed, 23 Nov 2011 02:10:03 GMT Does anybody know any company or individual woodworker looking to purchase a very interesting looking rosewood species. I togeher with a few partners purchased a large concession with intent to expand and replenish. There are samples available. Ghana Does anybody know any company or individual woodworker looking to purchase a very interesting looking rosewood species. I togeher with a few partners purchased a large concession with intent to expand and replenish. There are samples available. Ghana ]]> sailog http://www.woodworkforums.com/blogs/sailog/interesting-rosewood-timber-species-available-891/ cabinet maker consultancy http://www.woodworkforums.com/blogs/thelandingpad/cabinet-maker-consultancy-890/ Wed, 02 Nov 2011 01:47:21 GMT hi were are a design and construct firm working on a large scale fitout involving 1930's style cabinets to from a wine library, cheese display, charcuterie etc.
we are moving to drawing CAD stage and are requiring a consultant with experience in this field they may be interested in coming on board to advise as all will be fabricated off shore and details need to be spot on. ]]> http://www.woodworkforums.com/blogs/thelandingpad/cabinet-maker-consultancy-890/ In need of a guitar neck size, http://www.woodworkforums.com/blogs/daniel1992/need-guitar-neck-size-889/ Mon, 17 Oct 2011 00:41:16 GMT hey folks, im a 4th apprentice cabinet maker and looking to make my own guitar (my 1st time) im running a CNC and im juist after some sizes of an acoustic neck, aka the angle of the curves how long an what the ratio is from fret 1 - 12 ? if someone could help me out i would be forever greatfull Robo hey folks, im a 4th apprentice cabinet maker and looking to make my own guitar (my 1st time) im running a CNC and im juist after some sizes of an acoustic neck, aka the angle of the curves how long an what the ratio is from fret 1 - 12 ? if someone could help me out i would be forever greatfull

Robo ]]> Daniel1992 http://www.woodworkforums.com/blogs/daniel1992/need-guitar-neck-size-889/ need a stair builder northside of brisbane http://www.woodworkforums.com/blogs/jaynjord/need-stair-builder-northside-brisbane-888/ Wed, 05 Oct 2011 23:55:44 GMT Looking for a stair builder to do my external stairs, does anyone know someone who does solid timber ?. Looking for a stair builder to do my external stairs,
does anyone know someone who does solid timber ?. ]]> jaynjord http://www.woodworkforums.com/blogs/jaynjord/need-stair-builder-northside-brisbane-888/ I askew, is it right? http://www.woodworkforums.com/blogs/mic-d/i-askew-right-887/ Fri, 23 Sep 2011 23:18:22 GMT From time to time over the years, the question pops up of whether a ramped shooting board imparts a skew cut action. It has been shown time and again mathematically and schematically that it does not, but still people get confused and believe it does. Some say it does not because the 5º angle of the work doesn't make for much skew. In fact it does not because the 5º angle of the work, in fact any angle of the work does not produce any skew at all. Here is a small analogy to the real world that I have seen used nowhere else that will make it quite obvious I think.

Imagine you (the wood) are directly facing a 45º embankment (the blade).

You could walk straight ahead and climb the embankment and you would experience the full 45º and it would feel a bit difficult (this is analogous to normal straight planing)

Or you could do what comes intuitively to people (and animals) and rather than climbing at 90º to the edge of the bank, you set off at an angle, say 45º. This lowers the effective angle you are climbing and makes it easier than going straight ahead. This is analogous to the skew cut or skew planing. In fact the goemetrical basis is identical. You and the work are now travelling at some angle off 90º to the edge.

Now imagine yourself back in front of the embankment. This time stand on tiptoes and do a little pirouet. OK, not that much you big ballerina, just so your shoulders are now 5º to the bank. That is, instead of looking straight ahead, you're now looking 5º to the side of that first track you made. Now hold that 5º angle, but walk straight ahead up the embankment. Know what? You are still experiencing the full 45º climb aren't you? This is analogous to the 5º ramped shooting board

OK imagine yourself in front of the embankment again. Perhaps that 5º was too little. This time do your pirouet and stop at 45º. Now your shoulders are at 45º to the bank. Again head straight up the embankment (don't forget to hold yourself at 45º to your direction of tavel!) You are still experiencing the full 45º angle of the bank aren't you.

Try a few other experiments. Imagine going up sideways or backwards, imagine lying down at different angles instead of standing up, imagine dressing in your fine pink velour suit and wearig fruit on your head. If you keep travelling directly up the bank at 90º to he edge, it doesn't matter what you do, you can never lower the angle below 45º and there can be no skew cut.

So even though you changed your orientation (the work's orientation) if you climbed that bank (blade) at 90º to the edge you always experience the full angle of the bank/blade. It's exactly the same with the ramped shooting board. No matter what angle you hold the work, it still travels across the blade at 90º to the edge and there can be no skew.

Skewing is a property of the angle of the edge of the blade to the direction of travel solely. ]]> mic-d http://www.woodworkforums.com/blogs/mic-d/i-askew-right-887/ 2011 Project list http://www.woodworkforums.com/blogs/bobl/2011-project-list-885/ Thu, 25 Aug 2011 23:11:54 GMT 2011 Project List ****************************** Bobs Shed build / fit. 1. From the start to the lined shed (http://www.woodworkforums.com/f245/shed-builders-recommendation-perth-127060/index4.html) covers, earth works, structure build, lining and rectic compressed air fit out. 2. The rest of the fit. (http://www.woodworkforums.com/f245/bobls-shed-fit-134670/) 3. 150 mm blast gates (http://www.woodworkforums.com/f200/150-mm-blast-gates-132018/) Products 2011 Project List
******************************
Bobs Shed build / fit.
  1. From the start to the lined shed covers, earth works, structure build, lining and rectic compressed air fit out.
  2. The rest of the fit.
  3. 150 mm blast gates


Products
  1. Racing car cockpit simulator.
  2. Metal Work Lathe Coolant tank.
  3. Magnetic Swarf collector
  4. Electrolysis derusting setup
]]> BobL http://www.woodworkforums.com/blogs/bobl/2011-project-list-885/ 2010 Project list http://www.woodworkforums.com/blogs/bobl/2010-project-list-884/ Wed, 24 Aug 2011 23:35:19 GMT 2010 Project List In 2101 we did a lot of travelling, Kuwait, Bulgaria, Italy, US and Canada so not much happened. Timber and Milling 1. Log lifter update. (http://www.woodworkforums.com/f132/lift-log-59940/index2.html#post1097665) 2. Bobs Next CS mill (http://www.woodworkforums.com/f132/bobls-next-cs-mill-126320/) Products 2010 Project List

In 2101 we did a lot of travelling, Kuwait, Bulgaria, Italy, US and Canada so not much happened.

Timber and Milling
  1. Log lifter update.
  2. Bobs Next CS mill

Products
  1. Paint pot stand
]]> BobL http://www.woodworkforums.com/blogs/bobl/2010-project-list-884/ roy1234 http://www.woodworkforums.com/blogs/roy1234/roy1234-883/ Fri, 19 Aug 2011 21:38:58 GMT how do you replace a cluch on a stihl fs-55 weedeater how do you replace a cluch on a stihl fs-55 weedeater ]]> roy1234 http://www.woodworkforums.com/blogs/roy1234/roy1234-883/ woodfast up grade http://www.woodworkforums.com/blogs/hughie/woodfast-up-grade-882/ Thu, 28 Jul 2011 06:36:31 GMT Well I bought the Woodfast off a local high school via Ebay and ran out of space. So it had to sit around waiting for the up grade. I managed a couple of smallish bowls on it in the mean time, nothing out of the ordinary, just felt I should keep my hand in. Finally the shed is up although no power other than a long lead out of the laundry. Well started on the Woodfast with a quick check of the electrics and ran into my first problem. The contactor is three phase grrh! It has a 415v coil... Well I bought the Woodfast off a local high school via Ebay and ran out of space. So it had to sit around waiting for the up grade.
I managed a couple of smallish bowls on it in the mean time, nothing out of the ordinary, just felt I should keep my hand in.
Finally the shed is up although no power other than a long lead out of the laundry.

Well started on the Woodfast with a quick check of the electrics and ran into my first problem. The contactor is three phase grrh! It has a 415v coil and I need a single phase one.Plus given that it looks original, so there will be little chance of getting a 240v coil. :U Anyway off I went with the contactor to my local electrical wholesaler, full of hope. He took one look, " not a chance mate" he promptly replied shaking his head as well. Still all was not lost I got a new one for just under $100, yay!

Back in the shed and on with the wiring up of the contactor, motor and VSD etc. All went well until I got to the VSD. As it was the same as my previous one I had installed on my old Chiwanese generic. I proceeded to wire it up as per.... Darn thing would not fire up and could not access too much on the control panel keypad :? not really dead, just totally un-cooperative.:~
Damn, darn, darn, a quick call to my electrical brother in law for some much needed advice. Luckily for me he came around and we spent several hours and made some progress but could not get it into 'run mode'.

Finally had to ring another sparky who I had worked with and was very familar with my make and model of VSD. After about a hour on the phone with the mobile phone charger plugged in to keep it running. This time success, although it was similar the wiring requirements were quite different.

Testing, I was very happy and it ran very well, smooth speed changes, all in all a darn good little lathe. Spent some time going over it, checking the bearings etc.Found a slight vibration at a certian speed, found this was due to a slight run out on the motor pulley. A legacy of the lathe that the pulley was bored out on. Played around with it to see how much of a problem it really was and in the end decided it was a minor issue and left it at that. ]]> hughie http://www.woodworkforums.com/blogs/hughie/woodfast-up-grade-882/ Need saw wiring schematics diagram http://www.woodworkforums.com/blogs/machineman1/need-saw-wiring-schematics-diagram-881/ Tue, 28 Jun 2011 09:19:54 GMT Has any one got a full wiring diagram for a casidei ks1600 panel saw ,:2tsup: Has any one got a full wiring diagram for a casidei ks1600 panel saw ,:2tsup: ]]> machineman1 http://www.woodworkforums.com/blogs/machineman1/need-saw-wiring-schematics-diagram-881/ jointer knives http://www.woodworkforums.com/blogs/harppo/jointer-knives-880/ Fri, 03 Jun 2011 06:58:50 GMT :C has anyone out there replaced the quick set knives on a powermatic 6" jointer model 54A ? If so where did you get them and were they better than the factory knives?:no: ]]> harppo http://www.woodworkforums.com/blogs/harppo/jointer-knives-880/ A new workbench (A slow WIP) Part 1 http://www.woodworkforums.com/blogs/jmk89/new-workbench-slow-wip-part-1-879/ Wed, 04 May 2011 00:42:35 GMT To date my workbench has been a much-bastardised sideboard that my father made in the 1950s, which gradually got relegated to his shed and then given to me to use as storage. I removed the bookcase part and attached a sacrificial top surface so it could see service as a bench. Unsatisfactory barely comes close to describing the numerous deficiencies of this arrangement. Over the years I have considered different kinds of replacements including the bench shown by Alex Smith in The... To date my workbench has been a much-bastardised sideboard that my father made in the 1950s, which gradually got relegated to his shed and then given to me to use as storage. I removed the bookcase part and attached a sacrificial top surface so it could see service as a bench. Unsatisfactory barely comes close to describing the numerous deficiencies of this arrangement.

Over the years I have considered different kinds of replacements including the bench shown by Alex Smith in The Australian Home Carpenter, and the various benches illustrated and discussed by Christopher Schwarz in his two books on the subject.

This weekend, I decided to take the first major step in this project by creating the work surface, since this seems to be the most difficult part of the task. Once I have that work surface finish, I will start decisions on height, worth holding, and so forth with a view to coming up with an undercarriage.

One decision I haven't made yet is whether I will put an apron on this bench. My current Frankenbench does have an apron and I find it very useful for clamping boards when I am edge planing. Schwarz and other Roubophiles dislike the apron used on the Nicholson bench, and rely on a substantial leg flush with the edge of of the work surface as well as the thick work surface itself, to hold material for edge planing. They claim that there is a benefit in being able to clamp casework to the top of the bench which is unavailable by the use of an apron. I will probably defer this decision for a while and may even make the bench in a Roubo style but with an eye to converting it to a Nicholson-style if I decide that the apron is something I am not yet ready to give up.

The idea of a creating a huge laminated worktop from hardwood had appealed to me but, frankly, I have other projects that require my remaining stock of the last purchase of Studley hardwood (like a deck next to the still uncompleted swimming pool), so being essentially cheap, I decided that I did not wish to proceed that way. Rummaging through the collection of wood that I have stashed under the house, however, I found something I had forgotten that I had - the last time I bought some poplar blockboard, there was such a stuff up in the supply that the suppliers threw in a piece of 2 inch double laminated blockboard (again made from popular). It is about 7 feet long and 20 inches wide.

What I propose to do is to glue 12 mm floorboards onto both faces of this to make a work surface approximately 2 half inches thick and then to put appropriate end, front and back strips (probably about 35 mm thick) all the way round the edges. This will make a work surface that is approximately 2 m long, half a metre wide and 70 mm thick with all surfaces and edges made from hardwood (spotty) but with a very stable core of popular blockboard. The hardwood will mean that things like dog holes will be sufficiently solid at the surfaces where the dogs bear and in addition, there should be enough thickness in the floorboards to enable the surface to be flattened to at least once or twice without getting down to the blockboard substrate.

The photos show the first two floorboards being attached.
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]]> jmk89 http://www.woodworkforums.com/blogs/jmk89/new-workbench-slow-wip-part-1-879/ Projects Mk XIII http://www.woodworkforums.com/blogs/cruzi/projects-mk-xiii-871/ Tue, 26 Apr 2011 13:40:44 GMT Been drafting this bog entry for a while, not sure it should go live yet but here goes.... A whole lot of not much has been going on. The cedar occasional table started back here (http://www.woodworkforums.com/blogs/cruzi/projects-mk-xi-b-727/) has finally reached the end. (almost) Image: http://www.cruzis-coins.com/tmp/projxiii001b.jpg This is how the top looks after giving it a good cut. Been drafting this bog entry for a while, not sure it should go live yet but here goes....

A whole lot of not much has been going on.

The cedar occasional table started back here has finally reached the end. (almost)



This is how the top looks after giving it a good cut.




It sold, whilst still working on the top, it took a while to build a full gloss finish.






Apparently I'm building a reputation for being obsessive about finishing.:o



Next is a commission, client supplied (green) stock and only changed their mind a few times during build.







Red cedar, rosewood and ash highlights.



Next is a young lady who built a cheval mirror in the workshop, she was pretty happy with the end product despite our mentoring.



Whilst building it learnt something (:oo:), cheval apparently is French for horse and since these mirrors have 4 legs they became known as ;horse mirrors;



For the last year or so have been teaching a woodworking class at a respite centre.
Quite a challenging time with people of quite varying skills and abilities.
It is rewarding when they get to take home a cutting board or a spice rack, for some just hammering nails or drilling holes is fun. Been getting some good feedback from the staff at the centre and smiles like this are a reward in themselves.










Next is yet another unfinished project, it is a rosewood display case for a Sydney Olympic Torch. Designed to be able to be wall mounted or self standing.



Torch will be mounted in a dual metal ring arrangement that will hold it up higher than picture depicts and will be easily removable.




Next is a rather large bowl, a local lady sells herbal and green tea blends. She asked for a large bowl to mix in.



Could not find a timber blank large enough, nor could it be turned on a lathe (that we have access too anyway) so a laminated ring blank was made and was carved and smoothed into final shape.





A shellac/wax finish was used for the outside, shellac then a light sand was used inside, theory being that the wax could contaminate the blends and as the shellac wears, the oils from herbs will form a new layer.





Here is a project that to quote Anna Bligh, standing on the shoulders of giants makes me look good.

It is a type of wishing well for a wedding. It seriously did my head in trying to design a football shaped box, coopering, turning, segmenting all presented their own difficulties.

Eventually the suggestion came to simply make a box with a football on top (:doh:), using Super Turner (Harry) to turn a football, we made a box to put it on. .



Super Finisher( Bob)added a great gloss white finish in 2 days ,



Then sent it off to the sign writer who gave the football it's team colours. We then put on a few stickers.







Used magnets and a hidden latch to make theft of contents difficult. It was a surprise for the groom, who really loved it, might have orders for a few more.


One final thing, an end grain board, done with camphor, finding suitable timber is not easy but effect is popular.
]]> Cruzi http://www.woodworkforums.com/blogs/cruzi/projects-mk-xiii-871/ proof of concept http://www.woodworkforums.com/blogs/thompy/proof-concept-878/ Mon, 04 Apr 2011 09:44:35 GMT So today i figured i'd get some more done round the place, went and picked up a pallet to try out an idea i've had about my kitchen overhead cupboards, as much for my own benefit as well as the wifes. I figured i'd post it here, its a bit too roughnut like to post it in the box forum and not really applicable elsewhere.

pic 1: what i started with.
pic 2: what it tore down to.
pic 3: rough measured cutting an nailing.
pic 4: almost got it right.

So i measured it all out and figured i could do it, i almost did, i forgot to open the microwaves door when i measured for the sizes...oops... so it fits in but wont open. Quite OK however as it was / is just so i could see it in place let the missus approve or dissaprove and give me an idea of it as well. Just a proof of concept.

I have a microwave cabinet and two overheads to do, as well as a corner pantry. Given its a green recycling option, a design i like, something i can do and a bit stylie / arty, and i have acsess to a lot of identical pallets free, i think i'll start getting it done, my sandpaper is out, i used the wrong nails really (used 30mm clouts), and i needa get me a forstner bit for the handle cutouts, and the missus wants them painted.

Before anyone points it out i'm not elligble this yr for the pallet challenge so i thought i'd share my cheap an nasty idea here.

Thought i'd add that she was after an onion / spud / canned animal food bin as well so it'll fit in with the rest when i'm done.

Haven't been able to do much on the bench as i'm short on timber / funds, need to sort out some sash clamps before i can continue with that so doing stuff like this in the mean time. Keeps me occupied i guess.

Neal.
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]]> thompy http://www.woodworkforums.com/blogs/thompy/proof-concept-878/ Building a timber deck http://www.woodworkforums.com/blogs/ian-warrigal/building-timber-deck-877/ Tue, 29 Mar 2011 22:21:38 GMT Advice is sought from forum members as to span and sizes of timbers for an elevated deck. Deck to be constructed off the first floor of double brick house. Deck floor area 7mtrs wide X 5mtrs deep. I am considering hardwood. Any ideas on span and sizes if in hardwood? Ian Advice is sought from forum members as to span and sizes of timbers for an elevated deck.

Deck to be constructed off the first floor of double brick house. Deck floor area 7mtrs wide X 5mtrs deep.

I am considering hardwood. Any ideas on span and sizes if in hardwood?

Ian ]]> Ian Warrigal http://www.woodworkforums.com/blogs/ian-warrigal/building-timber-deck-877/ Getting inlaid http://www.woodworkforums.com/blogs/jmk89/getting-inlaid-876/ Wed, 16 Mar 2011 01:13:51 GMT After watching Lesson 10 of the Renaissance Woodworker Hand Tool School (worth every penny of the subscription - no association with Shannon Rogers who conducts the HTS, just a satisfied 'pupil')) and the associated project, I decided to try my hand at inlaying a diamond of Sydney blue gum into a board of spotted gum using the techniques that Shannon demonstrated.

Aside from not being able to find my mallet (which would have made chiselling out the spotted gum very difficult) the exercise went well.

Here are some pictures:

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The diamond glued in place with hide glue all over (to keep the inlay flat while the glue sets).

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The piece clamped down to ensure a good glue fit.

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Then piece after initial smoothing.

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After more scraping - as Shannon advised me by Twitter, the little gaps on one side in Pic #3 were probably caused by levering the chisel against the edge of the mortice while getting the junk out, scraping a bit further got a much straighter line. There is still a bit of glue junk on one side which I hope to get rid of this evening, when the glue has hardened up some more.

This piece is going to be the front face of the top rail of a new back I am building for my Barossa chair. The original back was somewhat uncomfortable, because it was completely flat, as the original seemed to be. The consequence was a failure of the mortice and tenon joint at the seat. the new back is going to be curved (about a 1000mm radius circle) and will be raked back a little.

So the inlay is actually into a concave surface (Don't say that I don't try to make things hard for myself!). The next step is to shape the back of the rail. Then I will make the middle cross piece and the small vertical pieces and finally the two side pieces. That means a total of 10 mortice and tenon joints to cut of which 6 will be angled! Chairs really are quite challenging! ]]> jmk89 http://www.woodworkforums.com/blogs/jmk89/getting-inlaid-876/ Creaky http://www.woodworkforums.com/blogs/creaky/creaky-875/ Sun, 13 Mar 2011 23:48:32 GMT Hi all,have been doing some of paving of late have been using crusher dust as my sub-base, have a lot of problems when I give the crusher dust a light sprinkle with water to aid compaction, it tends to bind up and stick to the bottom of the compacter, any advise appreciated. Hi all,have been doing some of paving of late have been using crusher dust as my sub-base, have a lot of problems when I give the crusher dust a light sprinkle with water to aid compaction, it tends to bind up and stick to the bottom of the compacter, any advise appreciated. ]]> Creaky http://www.woodworkforums.com/blogs/creaky/creaky-875/ Queensized Bed http://www.woodworkforums.com/blogs/tommy_smith/queensized-bed-874/ Thu, 10 Mar 2011 22:55:13 GMT i have been planning to make a queensized bed for awhile now i was going to make it out of red gum but every one is saying its too soft and it will not be very good. i like the colour of dark wood and a slight hint of red like in red gum im looking for a hard wood that doesnt cost a mint my uncle has a few red box post that he says are in good condition that i can have should i use them for the side posts and get a red gum slab for the middle? or try get more red box? im looking for a... i have been planning to make a queensized bed for awhile now
i was going to make it out of red gum but every one is saying its too soft and it will not be very good.
i like the colour of dark wood and a slight hint of red like in red gum
im looking for a hard wood that doesnt cost a mint
my uncle has a few red box post that he says are in good condition that i can have
should i use them for the side posts and get a red gum slab for the middle?
or try get more red box?

im looking for a dark wood with a good grain thats good to make a big bed out of but isnt too expensive
does any body have any suggestions?

heres my design



[IMG]http://www.furniturecreations.com/images/cst/CST200111KW.jpg[/IMG] ]]> tommy_smith http://www.woodworkforums.com/blogs/tommy_smith/queensized-bed-874/ <![CDATA[i'd like to build a house please? HOW MUCH?????]]> http://www.woodworkforums.com/blogs/renee_travis/id-like-build-house-please-how-much-873/ Thu, 10 Mar 2011 03:17:18 GMT hi there everyone, We are a young couple in a small Country town in outback NSW. We have dabbled with the idea of purchasing a home done and complete, but there are not too many of those available here. So we purchased a 1 acre block (30m frontage stretching back 50m) and now we are stuck. We are looking at a kit approx. a 293.9m2 home of a purchase price of $105,000 for all 3 stages of the home. we would love to do owner manager (not owner builder) however we first need to know... hi there everyone,

We are a young couple in a small Country town in outback NSW. We have dabbled with the idea of purchasing a home done and complete, but there are not too many of those available here.

So we purchased a 1 acre block (30m frontage stretching back 50m) and now we are stuck. We are looking at a kit approx. a 293.9m2 home of a purchase price of $105,000 for all 3 stages of the home.

we would love to do owner manager (not owner builder) however we first need to know what this sort of house will set us back once put on a slab built done finished! i.e. frames brickwork walls doors windows kitchen bathroom plumbing slab electrical and tile work (internal and external painting and carpet we would do ourselves)

We have currently set a budget for around $250,000 finished, my question is, is this even possible? if not what price should i be looking at to have a house like this built in my area.

thanks for taking the time to reply:U ]]> renee_travis http://www.woodworkforums.com/blogs/renee_travis/id-like-build-house-please-how-much-873/ A slow grind http://www.woodworkforums.com/blogs/jmk89/slow-grind-872/ Mon, 07 Mar 2011 03:50:26 GMT Chris Schwarz's recent posts (and video) on using a hand grinder and the recent thread on the Forums on the same subject made reminded me of a very useful jig from Robert Wearing which appears in his book, The Resourceful Woodworker. So I decided to make one.

I find the low tool rests on most grinders (powered or hand-cranked) to be somewhat inconvenient. Often, the handle of a chisel (especially a long handled one) can't be accommodated without hitting the bench that the grinder sits on. Also the nut holding the tool rest at the required angle works loose – it always seems to let go right at the worst moment!

Wearing replaces that tool rest with you a simple L-shaped wooden construction which is held in position by a nut on a bolt in the bench and can be moved closer to or further from the wheel to change the angle of the grind because of a slot in the base of the L through which the bolt runs.

The blade is held bevel down on the top back edge of the rest and pivoted gently against the wheel. With a firmer chisel, or a plane blade, the flat 'front' of the blade registers firmly on the rest and to get the correct grinding angle for any particular location of the L, a stop is clamped to the relevant blade.

Wearing used two pieces of wood connected by bolts and wing nuts which clamp the blade front and back. The advantage of this is that the clamp rests against the whole of the tool rest and provides a very positive interface, which assists in getting a straight and repeatable grind. The only disadvantage I found was that when sharpening narrow bevel edged chisels, there was insufficient registration of the blade on the tool rest and it tended to wobble, no matter how hard I clamped up the wooden stops.

Click image for larger version Name: 070311 Grinder 002.jpg Views: 33 Size: 171.8 KB ID: 855

Click image for larger version Name: 070311 Grinder 003.jpg Views: 31 Size: 191.2 KB ID: 856

The photographs show the Wearing tool rest and my adaptation. Instead of the wooden clamps that Wearing shows, I use an old-fashioned Eclipse honing jig and pivot the honing jig on the top of a tool rest against. The advantage of this is that the Eclipse honing jig is designed to hold bevel-edged chisels square by their sides and that makes it even easier to maintain a square grind. The honing jig can then be loosened and reset for finishing on your favourite diamond/oil/water stones and hone (unless you get lucky and the projection you need for using it as a stop on the tool rest is the same as for honing – it does happen sometimes!):D ]]> jmk89 http://www.woodworkforums.com/blogs/jmk89/slow-grind-872/ Finally in the water http://www.woodworkforums.com/blogs/hawk/finally-water-868/ Fri, 28 Jan 2011 12:17:28 GMT After a couple of goes at "Lawn Sailing", we finally took the Vagabond, now named "Driftwood" down to West Lakes for its baptism.

In my last post explained how I had fitted the centreboard case, and my last words were..."I'm not expecting any problems". Well if that didn't put the mozz on me. We put the boat in the water, and it leaked like a sieve. There were several places along the centreboard case that obviously had not sealed well and let in a veritable torrent of water. :C

Needless to say, we promptly put the boat back on the trailer and brought it home again. Looks like 1 have a little more work before it's completed.

Watch this space! ]]> Hawk http://www.woodworkforums.com/blogs/hawk/finally-water-868/ blue stain in bunya Help 1st post http://www.woodworkforums.com/blogs/elinsw/blue-stain-bunya-help-1st-post-865/ Sat, 22 Jan 2011 00:07:25 GMT I have been milling some bunya pine with a graberg mine mill and a stil magnum 066 and has been beautiful.It has no staining but have had it racked for about 2 days and is growing white fluff?will it tern into blue stain,will it go away,what should i do. I have been milling some bunya pine with a graberg mine mill and a stil magnum 066 and has been beautiful.It has no staining but have had it racked for about 2 days and is growing white fluff?will it tern into blue stain,will it go away,what should i do. ]]> Elinsw http://www.woodworkforums.com/blogs/elinsw/blue-stain-bunya-help-1st-post-865/ Deck timber size and spacing http://www.woodworkforums.com/blogs/osborne/deck-timber-size-spacing-863/ Thu, 13 Jan 2011 10:06:29 GMT Hi, Im haveing trouble finding a chart for the bearers and joists sizes, if anyone could tell me what sizes i would need, that would be good. The deck is 4 m wide and 9.8 m long, with the bearers running length ways. Any help is appriciated. Thanks Ben Hi,
Im haveing trouble finding a chart for the bearers and joists sizes, if anyone could tell me what sizes i would need, that would be good.

The deck is 4 m wide and 9.8 m long, with the bearers running length ways.

Any help is appriciated.
Thanks Ben ]]> osborne http://www.woodworkforums.com/blogs/osborne/deck-timber-size-spacing-863/ Zoobz http://www.woodworkforums.com/blogs/z_zoobz/zoobz-862/ Sun, 09 Jan 2011 08:54:26 GMT Hi, This is the first time I have been on a blog so not really sure how to do this. But here goes. I would like to make a box with small compartments from wood for storing little things like buttons, pins, small scissors etc. The box is to have lid (a sliding type). Since I do not have any experience in woodworking do you think I am bitting off to much. I am based on the Northern Beaches of Sydney and do not mind attending some sort of short course. I am quite interested in how wood pieces... Hi,
This is the first time I have been on a blog so not really sure how to do this. But here goes.
I would like to make a box with small compartments from wood for storing little things like buttons, pins, small scissors etc. The box is to have lid (a sliding type). Since I do not have any experience in woodworking do you think I am bitting off to much. I am based on the Northern Beaches of Sydney and do not mind attending some sort of short course. I am quite interested in how wood pieces are joined togther without screws. It is a like a presentation case for my wife. Wonder if anyone can guide me as to the type of wood to use or the course to attend. I am trying to avoid TAFE as I find it takes too long to learn anything and I don;t really want to take up woodworking as a carrier.
Thanks
Zoobz ]]> z_zoobz http://www.woodworkforums.com/blogs/z_zoobz/zoobz-862/ Sher MC900 http://www.woodworkforums.com/blogs/woodchop/sher-mc900-861/ Sun, 09 Jan 2011 03:03:09 GMT Hi, I have a Sher MC900 lathe that has a broken adjustable speed pulley. Does anyone know where spare parts for this machine is available. thanks from woodchop.:wink: Hi, I have a Sher MC900 lathe that has a broken adjustable speed pulley. Does anyone know where spare parts for this machine is available. thanks from woodchop.:wink: ]]> woodchop http://www.woodworkforums.com/blogs/woodchop/sher-mc900-861/ Wardol http://www.woodworkforums.com/blogs/petera295/wardol-860/ Sun, 02 Jan 2011 06:10:15 GMT Hi,

I have varnished margin boards & on my timber boat.

Whilst this suits the boat, the work is constant. I am considering using a 2 pack clear polyeurothane just on the margin boards, probably, Wardol but want to know if anyone has any knowledge about this product in Australian conditions. The rest of my timberwork is covered and varnished with Goldspar. I am concerned that I will have a colour discrepancy between the 2 surfaces and I also understand that there are also issues with polyeurothane.

Any comments/experience on this matter would be appreciated.

Regards

PA ]]> petera295 http://www.woodworkforums.com/blogs/petera295/wardol-860/