Cypress curing

**movay_2008** · 20th July 2014, 06:18 PM

Anyone carved this type (?) of cypress. I have a little OS comission for a Toltec type madonna. Trouble is its still fresh and Im not sure how far it will cure over a 6-12 month time span... drying it down that is as I carve.

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**movay_2008** · 22nd July 2014, 05:49 PM

Turns out to be himalayan cypress. Carving it in such a way to allow best and quickest release of moisture from timber without checking. Uber fresh. Sweet smell. So far so good

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**Robson Valley** · 23rd July 2014, 02:34 AM

There are some tricks used here in the Pacific Northwest to carve green/wet wood and slow the possible cracking.
a) cover it with plastic between carving sessions.
b) store the carving in a plastic bag with wet chips to slow the drying.

How it was done a century ago, the native carvers are not about to explain.

I've never tried to do it and have lost some good wood and WIP's.

**Mike the knife** · 23rd July 2014, 06:35 AM

Yes ,speaking of carving green wood generally, sealing it in polythene between carving sessions is the way to go, immediately rewetting it & covering if cracks start to develop.
Carving deeply up to the depth of the first annual ring in places & also hollowing out any large integral plinths or drilling deep from underneath in to the centre is very helpful in preventing cracking, you can see this hollowing out the back & deep drilling in medieval church oak woodcarvings.
After you are finished the carving the time outside of the bag each day/week/month is very gradually increased & drying regulated by wetting/exposing to the air. Leave it too long in the bag & it will develop mould , which is difficult to handle. I know people who have obtained their timber this way for years but they do experience some degree of losses & the wise ones only boss the carving out before drying it ,thus minimising wasted time .
Looking at your photos, it looks to me as if your design & roughing stand every chance of drying successfully but as always with a living thing like wood it'll be in the lap of he Gods for some time yet !

**movay_2008** · 23rd July 2014, 09:14 PM

Yeah, i like total submersion treatmeant best. But the shavings cure works well and is quicker so will probably submerge for a couple of months and transfer to shavings. I hear about adding detergent to water to speed it up, but dont like my wood soaking up detergent chems. So thinking of getting some foam bark (indigenous here) or 'soapy leaves' from other trees here and use that in the submerge.

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**movay_2008** · 23rd July 2014, 09:20 PM

Thanks. Rob and Mick. Yes, will be hollowing out. Thinking of long boiling and submerging in soapy water.. Maybe both at once! ... Some swear by detergent soaking but would prefer non additive soap which I have. Also wondering about foamy leaves or foam bark tree, which grows here.

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**Robson Valley** · 24th July 2014, 03:52 AM

If you were contemplating a carving with the bulk of the log intact, there are some techniques which reduce but don't totally eliminate cracking.
1. ignore it = logs crack. Carve right across the cracks. In any case, paint/seal the cut log ends.
2. nominate the "ugly" side of the log. One cut to the center for the entire length.
3. PacNW totem poles have as much as 1/3 of the log cut away(backside). They are never carved in the round.
4. Cut a 2"/5cm cookie off the end of the log. Keep track of the orientation to the log.
Put the cookie out in the sun until it cracks as it dries and shows you were the first/biggest crack is most likely to be.