Thread: Sculpture just cracked!

The general rule is that it takes one year per inch (25mm) thickness for a piece of wood to stabilize at about 12% moisture content. Some woods are less prone to differential shrinking (cracking) than others. Here's a reference that may help you: The Wood Database | The Wood Database and another: drying wood It is also recommended that the ends of the log be sealed to slow the evaporation of the moisture from the core out the end of the log. There are many sealants, but most work: oil-based paint, Thompson's Water Seal, Latex paint, etc. I did a couple of maple limbs by sealing with polyvarathane varnish (several coats) and then wrapping the end in clingfilm. It still cracked a little on the ends, but not so deeply it is ruined. BTW, the wood should be stored outside in a shaded area, off the ground for it to season.

Another option is to immerse the wood completely in PolyEthyleneGloycol (PEG); here's a PDF reference from Oregon State University about PEG: ‎owic.oregonstate.edu/sites/default/files/pubs/peg.pdf This stuff works great, but it's quite expensive. One way around that is that the wood is placed on stickers inside a black plastic trash bag, loosely wrapped with something to keep the bag close to the wood - maybe more stickers around the log. The PEG is then poured into the bag so that the piece of wood is totally submerged.

Yet another option is to hunt around for a lumber mill with a kiln and see if they would be willing to kiln-dry your log for you.

Claude

"Some woods are less prone to differential shrinking (cracking) than others."
Discouraging, but you have to believe Claude's words.

Years ago, I really had my heart set on carving some alder and some apple woods.
Log pieces 10-15cm x 60cm long. Painted the ends, stripped the bark, did all the right things.
All multiple crackings end-to-end before a year was up. Smoker BBQ chips now.

Text deleted by Claude

I have not tried this, but I have seen it done by one artisan.

He hammered pewter into the cracks to make it look as if it was done on purpose to great effect.

That stated, as a personal choice, paperbark would probably be the least likely wood that I would use to carve.

Turning a fault into a feature has its merits.
The best work that I've ever seen is right here in the Woodworkforums.
Rivers of pigmented epoxy.
I tried the epoxy and brass key-cutter dust method. Sanded it back and polished. Dull. Don't bother.

I think this is a great opportunity and depending on the form that you were going to carve to have this in two parts or partly(no pun intended) in two parts. Once you have finished the carving put a wedge through the middle and mount this on a block.

Expanding on what Christos says... You could just ignore the crack and carve the sculpture as if there was no crack. This would not be much different than a wood turner making a bowl of wood that had inclusions/holes in it...

Claude