Thread: Best 14' Circular Woodworking Sawblade

Hi TerryOz
What size arbor?
I have 2 14" blades that may suit.
Cheers
gidgee 1

I reckon it is 1" but I will check that when I get home. What do you have?

I would have to have a look ,but from memory the arbor is 1-1/4",one blade is 28T (ripping) 76?T crosscut.
Cheers
gidgee 1

Dimar, Leitz and Leuco have all served us well at work.

Hi Terryoz, I use Central saw works 82778879, they are based in Dunorlan St Edwardstown. Steve Volker is the bloke to speak to and will advise on what would be best, the young lady that answers the phone is helpful also. They sharpen and I believe make them there also and post them out, so you don't have to make a special trip down there.
Kryn

Hi Kryn,
Just gave them a call and I got some advice, that sort of surprised me. They said if I am cutting wood, as I do, I need the sawblade to be negative "Hook" or "Rake". Reason being, Positive Raked, tend to want to "walk across the job" and need to be held back a bit. They didn't have something like that there for me and suggested I try other specialist places like Leuco, which did. They said that the 350mm negative raked Sawblades with the 96 odd teeth in their catalogue had never been imported/ordered as yet?
Starting to feel more confused that before this thread was written now.

I'm glad that you got some advice, seems to know what he's talking about, sorry that you can't find one locally though.
You might have to try Mr Google and see what he can find for you.
Kryn

Tried a negative rake Linbide blade on our docking saw (Omga RN700) and it was much worse for "walking" than the positive rake we'd been using since forever; actually, it was nearly uncontrollable. Terribly designed; no anti vibration slots, no expansion slots, the shrieking noise it made when it was just spinning freely was borderline unbearable, even with earplugs.

It's been sitting in the corner ever since.

Negative rake is great for non-ferrous metal, for wood I reckon it's terrible.

Originally Posted by elanjacobs

Tried a negative rake Linbide blade on our docking saw (Omga RN700) and it was much worse for "walking" than the positive rake we'd been using since forever; actually, it was nearly uncontrollable. Terribly designed; no anti vibration slots, no expansion slots, the shrieking noise it made when it was just spinning freely was borderline unbearable, even with earplugs.

It's been sitting in the corner ever since.

Negative rake is great for non-ferrous metal, for wood I reckon it's terrible.

Thanks for the advice Elan. That is pretty much what I ended up thinking, given that the guy from Leuco said that he had never heard of any benefits with the negative rake, when using it with wood and that he had never even ordered them before for this use. I got the Leuco he suggested and I am flying with it mate.

Originally Posted by elanjacobs

Tried a negative rake Linbide blade on our docking saw (Omga RN700) and it was much worse for "walking" than the positive rake we'd been using since forever;

I'm not saying that you're wrong but it seems illogical to me.

Radial Arm and Sliding chop saws MUST use a negative hook angle for safety reasons. Because the front of the blade is spinning downward, all blades in these saws tend to want to walk toward the operator. A positive hook angle tends to walk more aggressively than a blade with a negative hook angle.

You can look at the blades and easily tell which is positive hook vs. negative hook.

Through a poor product description I wound up with a positive hook angle on my Sliding Compound Miter Saw or Sliding Chop Saw. For most cuts, I cut on the push and not the pull. (Pull out, turn on, lower, cut on the push back.) Not something that you can do on a Radial saw.

As for which blade. . . .

Here is a rather good article:

Saw Blades 101 / Rockler How-to

It is a good explanation of saw blade types.

Let me toss a few things out about saw blades. Some will call me an idiot but it's like the correct way to sharpen a chisel. Yes, I do sharpen my chisels like an idiot would.

Thin kerf vs. full kerf.
Your splitter or riving knife is designed for a full kerf blade. A thin kerf blade with a full kerf splitter or riving knife will cause burning or the timber will pull away from the fence. (Depending upon if you are left or right.) The problem is that the splitter or riving knife must be aligned with the arbor flange and we don't have a tool or gauge to do that.
BTW - In theory, the splitter / riving knife should be re-aligned with every blade change.

General purpose vs. Combination
There are several brands of general purpose blades that are offered only in a variety of ATB styles. Yes, these are good blades that give a very smooth cut but when the timber is more than ¾ inch (19 mm) thick, they are really tough going.

Combination blades (10 inch) are usually made with 8 or 10 groups of teeth. Each group has a raker or flat top tooth and 4 ATB teeth. They have either 40 or 50 total teeth. These blades cut almost as smooth as a general purpose but will easily cut through 3 inch (75 mm) thick timber.

The real world and sanding
It doesn't matter which, Combination or General Purpose, blade that you use, you will have to sand the result. I use the combination blade almost exclusively and joyfully sand away.

The real world and blade sharpening
Saw blades, today, are made with a variety of tooth shapes and face angles. As of about 5 years ago, the machines needed to sharpen blades cost around $100,000 US. What this really says is that blade sharpening has moved from the garage or small shop into the major corporate world. It's just not possible for the little sharpening shop to purchase and maintain the machinery to sharpen todays saw blades profitably.

Rich,

I know the logic and the theory, that's why I suggested to the boss to try the neg. rake in the first place, but the result was a total disaster. I have NEVER had a saw behave that badly; I have more control with the pos. rake cutting 12x3 American Oak than I did with the neg. rake in 6x2 Vic Ash.

Neg. or zero rake is great in SCMS when you're cutting on the push stroke, but, after what I've experienced, I would never use or recommend it in a radial arm saw

In the past on my 12" Bosch SCMS I have used Bosch blades and then I tried the Bluemak blade made by Makita just because it looked pretty. To my mind it is sensational to the point that I have also bought 7 1/4" and 9 1/4" blades too and I have recently replaced the blade for the SCMS with the same blade (60T crosscut).

I looked to see whether they made a 350mm (14") blade and I can't find that out. Don't despair completely as I couldn't find listed my 305mm blade either and I have purchased two blades more than six months apart. It was just over $100 this time.

On the US site it listed 10" blades and 16" blades (which they use in those monster hand held circular saws: For log cabin building I think) so there is a distinct possibility they are made. I truly have never experienced any blade cut like these. This is a little one.

Bluemak.JPG

Ok. I did a little research and contacted the store from which I bought my blade. Apparently there is a 355mm blade available with 72T. They said (Total Tools) it would be about $145.

Regards
Paul

Originally Posted by elanjacobs

I know the logic and the theory,

The two magic words, "logic" and "theory" don't always align with reality.

https://adelaidetools.com.au/makita-...-4mm-bore.html

This one?