Thread: 6mm Tongue and groove router bit

I've got a 6mm cutter that i use frequently. Try Carbitool.

regards,

Rob

I would not recommend MDF in a kitchen, especially as a floating panel in a door. Moisture will get in and the MDF will act as a sponge.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Should be ok as long as you put a finish on it
I have used the same method but used ply,putting a finish on before you assemble I found gave a neat job

Originally Posted by derekcohen

I would not recommend MDF in a kitchen, especially as a floating panel in a door. Moisture will get in and the MDF will act as a sponge.


Regards from Perth

Derek

Thanks for the replies.

Using mdf in painted kitchen doors seems to be fairly common place around the world these days. What would you recommend instead? 6mm ply? I would have thought that once painted, mdf wouldn't be much of an issue.

Happy to hear of alternative methods. At this stage I was planning to go ply cabinets with timber face frames and doors as above. Doors and face frames painted.

As long as it's painted properly, there should be no problem with water. I wouldn't use ply over MDF, MDF is more stable.

Any reason for ply over melamine carcasses? You'll save a fortune with white chipboard over nice looking ply

From another angle. . . . .

Assuming that you are intending for a 19 MM thick door. Build a nice frame with the appropriate edge detail but no groove for the panel from 13 MM thick material. Then glue the frame to your 6 MM material for the door. You will have a normal 19MM cabinet door. Just use a wall board joint compound (Spackle?) to seal the edges of the MDF before painting.

You might get a line around the edge at join after time, especially if it's a timber frame on an MDF panel

Originally Posted by nrb

Should be ok as long as you put a finish on it
I have used the same method but used ply,putting a finish on before you assemble I found gave a neat job

Did painting the panel first make up for the slight gap between the 6.35mm groove and 6mm panel?

Originally Posted by rrich

From another angle. . . . .

Assuming that you are intending for a 19 MM thick door. Build a nice frame with the appropriate edge detail but no groove for the panel from 13 MM thick material. Then glue the frame to your 6 MM material for the door. You will have a normal 19MM cabinet door. Just use a wall board joint compound (Spackle?) to seal the edges of the MDF before painting.

Thanks for for the suggestion. They will be 19mm thick but I think ill worry about future cracks appearing as elanjacobs said if I went this way.

Originally Posted by elanjacobs

As long as it's painted properly, there should be no problem with water. I wouldn't use ply over MDF, MDF is more stable.

Any reason for ply over melamine carcasses? You'll save a fortune with white chipboard over nice looking ply

Mainly aesthetics but also I'm a little hesitant about chipping melamine. I made a few practice cabinets out of melamine using a specialist blade and the results were actually pretty good using a simple triton 2000 table saw. Hardly any chip out.

I've got a Festool TS55 with rail now and I'll be getting a fairly serious upgrade to the triton tablesaw before commencing this project (kitchen for new house) so I could probably use melamine if I had to budget wise.

I just find melamine cheap and tacky even though I'm pretty sure even high end kitchens have their cabinets made this way these days.

Hi There,
6mm will give you some issues with handle attachment.
I've done about 100 MDF doors, in shaker style like this...
12mm MRMDF as the panel cut to 10mm over size, and 6mm cut to the width of the edge you require +5mm
Glue and pin the 6mm around the edge
When dry trim to finished size,
use tiny round over bit aroung outside edge
I them use liner laminate to laminate the inside of them and trim with trim router.
Sand, couple of coats of OIL based primer, and then two coats of OIL based top coat.
Cottage Kitchen.jpg