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Thread: Acute angles on the Table Saw?
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30th May 2019, 03:01 AM #16
Is there a name for these?
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30th May 2019 03:01 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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30th May 2019, 09:16 AM #17GOLD MEMBER
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Woodpixel, I'm not posting photos of that, but should be game enough, they are in the Safety forum - noted Gore Warning!!
and as for the saying "short term pain, long term gain" it's true on so many levels.
1. I Didn't listen to my physio and do my passive exercises because it hurt too much, now it's thumbs up!! As in that's all I can do, I can't bend it anymore.
2. The small pain I got from the accident, has taught me a "long time" gain in education about a) safety, b) safety, c) safety, and d) the old TV ad about driving tired, also rings true here, "don't die for a deadline", if your tired, don't rush to complete a job and use machinery, there's always tomorrow. Wait til the morning when you've fully woken up.
and well done on the homemade roving knife version, I will be enlisting the plans for that so that I can make one to replace the metal clunker I threw away. I will also be employing some Perspex fan blades glued up to be another form of protector.
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30th May 2019, 10:50 AM #18GOLD MEMBER
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My take on this is as below.
Extend the false table well past the blade on the right hand side.
Lower the blade, Set it up, clamp in place, raise the blade and you have a nice zero clearance insert.
The stop (really a fence) on the right hand side can be use for both cuts, if you don’t mind a bit of wasteage.
The advantage of this is you get a positive stop on the rhs of the blade, so easy lineup.
Then I’d use the offcuts from the cutting process to make a sled for putting them through the drum sander, 5 or more at a time. One pass each side on 240 grit should do it.
Cheers
Arron
FA953CEE-F49C-4BB6-841D-ACB2CB9E6DEF.jpgApologies for unnoticed autocomplete errors.
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30th May 2019, 11:42 AM #19
Thank you all
Absolutely fabulous. Love it all.
Thank you all for the input. Its been of great benefit and I truly appreciate it. I never have trouble coming up with an initial flash of an idea, but finishing it off into something real often illudes me.
Arron, your final diagram was the last piece of the puzzle - thank you.
Fumbler - you must be a popular guy, always giving the thumbs up!
As for elanjacobs, I sense some hijinks and sarcasm!
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I'll post some results this arvo. This morning is another spray day - not so good after a heavy frost, 9 degrees and humidity so high its literally dripping from the eaves. I really need a dedicated studio for spraying! (outside just doesn't cut it!)Last edited by woodPixel; 30th May 2019 at 11:46 AM. Reason: formatting blew up ???
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30th May 2019, 11:47 AM #20Taking a break
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No sarcasm at all, I was being completely serious with my suggestions, particularly the router bit idea. You could be done with the whole job in a couple of hours
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30th May 2019, 12:02 PM #21
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30th May 2019, 12:06 PM #22SENIOR MEMBER
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If it doesn't have to be on the table saw, matt estla has a similar task which users the thicknesser and is explained in detail.
Its part of his router cupboard build series on YouTube.
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30th May 2019, 12:06 PM #23Taking a break
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If you want one they'll make one, that's what they do.
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31st May 2019, 01:01 AM #24
Success!
Chicken Dinner! Its alive!
Here are some pictures. It works just as planned. Couldn't be happier.
It is absolutely bang-smack-on with the Sketchup calculations.... 25.0mm wide and 8.9mm tall.... so the angles must be exact.
-- cuts are very smooth... using a Freud P410T, recently sharpened despite its manky appearance
-- The side towards the blade uses two brass hinges
-- I needed to move the fulcrum angle back a fair way
-- The Incra fence was fantastic. I used the 20mm block to gauge width, then used the macro then micro adjusters to absolutely sneak up on the exact size. Was super fast and not fiddly at all.
A few improvements for tomorrow:
-- making the "height adjuster" a bit more permanent. The block of wood seems a little.... makeshift
-- making a little blade catch for the off-cuts for when they drop after the cut. At the moment they are saved by the MDF "riving knife" and simply moved on with a push stick. It works, but not 100% happy.
And if I were to remake it:
-- Rear fence taller by about 2cm and angle it it about 10°.... so the fingers grip along the edge
-- make a blade cover for behind (might do that anyway) to protect the fingers
-- Better dust collection... make up one of my patented zero-clearance-feathers-with-a-hole just for it
Thank you all for your inputs! It is greatly appreciated.
1.jpg 2.jpg 3.jpg 4.jpg
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31st May 2019, 03:54 PM #25
Success - Part 2 !
And here we are with two of the mods. Worked just a treat.
They are tacked on with CA.
Dust was minimised to zero* (green arrow) and the riving knife addendum (red arrow)** caught the offcut and slid it towards the fence before it went anywhere near the blade.
Whacko!
100% happy. Banged out a big tray of these in (about) 10 minutes (?). It was exceedingly quick.
IMG_20190531_121803.jpg IMG_20190531_121745.jpg red.jpg green.jpg IMG_20190531_131958.jpg
* ignore the dust you can see. That was there before I added the Green Arrow Addendum to my offset block. It is simply tacked into place with my headless pinner. No glue. It doesn't move. Its sole purpose was to restrict dust from flying off the cut and give the suction of the DC time to catch it. It worked quite well!
** edit: the red arrow points to the Riving Knife Addendum. The RDA is slightly angled to the tip is rubbing lightly on the saw. The part closest to the teeth is offset by about 1mm. One cannot see it in the photos angle. This stops the blade from catching the RDA and send it into my face. After adding it I poked and prodded with considerable force on the various parts to see if I could get it to explode. It did not
Ive been thinking of this type of blade thing for some time. A riving knife that rides on the blade, spring steel, ultra thin, like a broad pair of tweezers....
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31st May 2019, 07:42 PM #26
Since everyone likes video, here is a short one showing the off-cuts stability.
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1st June 2019, 09:59 AM #27
Nicely done, similar to the "donkeys ear" style sleds that I have mentioned in posts on similar topics. The TS is a much faster option than a router setup IF you can control the work piece during & after the cut.
I use "donkeys ear" style sleds quite a bit as my Woodfast TS 250 TS is a mini sliding panel saw style design that does not permit the use of zero clearance inserts. I have to sacrifice some cutting depth to employ a zero clearance feature in my sleds.Mobyturns
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1st June 2019, 10:33 AM #28Woodworking mechanic
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