Thread: In need of some advice

Hi Froggy,

if it is just a case on needing more time for the glue-up you could try Titebond Extend or perhaps West system epoxy with the slow hardener?

Brian

Another way would be to glue up small sections at a time, say three segments per unit. Once these three piece segments are dry, they can be be glued up as a complete unit or doubled up, making six segment sections. The use of an inner form to prevent deforming would be a good idea.
This method works well when the gradual build up eventually leaves you with three large bows to make up the table ring.

It looks as though the join between segments is end grain to end grain.
This is not a particularly strong joint.
can the circular skirt be built from overlapping layers like bricks in a wall?

is there any cross bracing under the top.

Originally Posted by ian

It looks as though the join between segments is end grain to end grain.
This is not a particularly strong joint.
can the circular skirt be built from overlapping layers like bricks in a wall?

is there any cross bracing under the top.

It is end grain to end ģrain. Once I make the ring I was going to glue the edge to the underside (face). I was then going to run the router tracing the edge of the table. I am currently trying to glue small segments together as "rustynail" has suggested

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk

Is the top solid wood or veneered board?

If solid wood, I don't think what you are proposing (gluing the ring to the top) will last very long before expansion / contraction of the top blows some of the end grain joints apart.

IMO, a circular apron should be either steam bent (which you have already decided against), laminated (which requires a form around which the strips are laminated) or built up using a technique I know of as "brick laying".

The apron it self should not be glued to the table unless the top is a made of something like MDF or particle board.

Originally Posted by ian

Is the top solid wood or veneered board?

If solid wood, I don't think what you are proposing (gluing the ring to the top) will last very long before expansion / contraction of the top blows some of the end grain joints apart.

IMO, a circular apron should be either steam bent (which you have already decided against), laminated (which requires a form around which the strips are laminated) or built up using a technique I know of as "brick laying".

The apron it self should not be glued to the table unless the top is a made of something like MDF or particle board.

Thanks for the advice. It is solid wood.... I may want to rethink this......?????

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk

Originally Posted by Froggy10

It is solid wood.... I may want to rethink this......?????

yep


in your design, what is the purpose of the skirt ?
is it to make the edge of the table appear thicker than it really is?
or is it to support the table? in which case the skirt should be set back from the edge so that season movement of the top is hidden.

Originally Posted by ian

yep


in your design, what is the purpose of the skirt ?
is it to make the edge of the table appear thicker than it really is?
or is it to support the table? in which case the skirt should be set back from the edge so that season movement of the top is hidden.

The skirt is to make the table top to appear thicker and conceal the panel that is stabilizing the legs. If it needs to be moved I just have to take the tabletop off and only move 2 pieces. (Pedestal and top) i have been thinking that i might attemp to bend or laminate some pieces instead.

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk

is the panel that stabilises the legs solid wood or something like MDF or ply?

if it's some sort of board material, could you glue the circular apron to the panel ?

can you post a picture of the table without the top so we can see the legs and how they are stabilised by the panel?

The skirt should not be glued to the underside of the table, for reasons Ian has mentioned. Table clips or buttons as they are sometimes called would overcome the expansion and contraction problem. Some glues are better for end grain than others but with careful selection a satisfactory result can be achieved. Once the complete circle has been glued up, it will be a reasonably solid unit. If it were load bearing things would be different.
Steam bending is not always an option, particularly where accuracy is concerned. Also timber specie must be taken into consideration as many don't bend well.
Thin strip lamination would probably be the best way to go, but as you have already started on the end grain glue up why not continue and see how it goes? I made a similar table for a client many years ago and was limited in timber (English oak) to the extent that I had to use the short off cuts from the top boards to fashion the skirt, much like yours. The end result has been quite satisfactory and the table continues to give good service.

Hi,

I'm guessing you have already done the end grain glue up so I'm late to comment.

If you want this angular skirt made from short sections the end grain joints need to be strengthened. You could use ply strips in grooves vertically, could use biscuits or dominos. The point is the considerable weakness of the joint as is.

The solid top should use clips or wooden buckles with the securing screws holes slightly elongated. The table at a guess is 36 to 48 inches across so with extreme humidity and temperatures you could be looking at 12-15mm expansion across the grain of the top.

If the top is fixed to the skirt without allowing for expansion your likely to crack the skirt.

Just glue block the back of the joints if you're worried about them cracking.

So I decided to go a different route after everyone feedback. I am in the process of laminating 2 half pieces to form the skirt. I am going to attach with cleats and male the circumference small to allow room for expansion. I should have this completed this weekend and I will post a picture of it when I am done.

I did attempt to glue the segments together with little success. 1 or 2 mitres did not stay tight altering the shape ad 2 it was extremely weak joints as mentioned they would be.

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk

So here is the (almost)completed project. I still have to sand and buff. Ran out of propane in the middle of the night and of course it was the only night in the last couple of weeks to go below -20.



Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk