Thread: Advice needed: angled rip without a tablesaw

Good Morning Chris

Given the small size of your piece of timber, it will be quite difficult to hold it securely for power tools. No bench saw, presume no band saw.

Using a strait edge, I would accurately scribe a cutting line. As the cut is only 12 mm thick and 900 mm long, I would then cut using a hand saw about 1 - 2 mm outside the line and then very carefully plane back to the scribe line. You could also cut it with a jigsaw or a band saw or even remove all the waste with a hand plane.


Fair Winds

Graeme

If I only had a circular saw and straight edge, I'd use some scrap to build a jig that will hold the lumber and give enough room for the saw to rest on and clamp the straight edge.

ron

I reckon it's too small to use a circular saw, unless you can mount the saw using something like a Triton. Then you would need a jig.
Far simpler to ask if someone has a bandsaw and could run it through for you.

Otherwise, I reckon GC is on the money.

Originally Posted by GraemeCook

Good Morning Chris

Given the small size of your piece of timber, it will be quite difficult to hold it securely for power tools. No bench saw, presume no band saw.

Using a strait edge, I would accurately scribe a cutting line. As the cut is only 12 mm thick and 900 mm long, I would then cut using a hand saw about 1 - 2 mm outside the line and then very carefully plane back to the scribe line. You could also cut it with a jigsaw or a band saw or even remove all the waste with a hand plane.


Fair Winds

Graeme

Plus 1 on scribing the lines and removing the lot with a hand plane. You'll have better control and will find it quite therapeutic.

What I would be doing may not be applicable to others due to the equipment I have.
I have a Festool circular saw and 1400mm track with clamps.

Placing the hardwood on the bench next to a wider piece of timber and of the same thickness (or pack to same thickness) and about the same length. Place the track on the hardwood where the desired cut is to be made, 40mm at one end, 30mm at the other, the second piece of timber is there only to support the track. Clamp the track down. Now using the saw set at the appropriate depth of cut, in one simple action you can cut the hardwood to your required size.

That is one long wedge!

Originally Posted by son_of_bluegras

If I only had a circular saw and straight edge, I'd use some scrap to build a jig that will hold the lumber and give enough room for the saw to rest on and clamp the straight edge.

This is close to one option I'd use... Got a length of scrap MDF, ply or a wide board you can glue the strip to? (You can generally recover the "scrap" for use later, but it's best to use something that you won't mind wasting if all goes wrong. Y'know? )

You don't have to glue it to the middle, mark your line and glue it on with the future waste piece hanging over an edge of the scrap. ie. with your marked line aligned along the edge. Then use the CS to cut along that edge, using the scrap as your platform.

I've used brown paper in the glue joint to make it more easily "broken" once the cut is done... and a little bit of light sanding should clean the glue off both pieces up nicely.

Originally Posted by chriskat

Hi,

The stock I'm working with is a strip of hardwood measuring 900x40x12.

I basically want to rip a single straight line so it remains 40mm on one end, but tapers off to 30mm at the other.

This is very different from ripping straight strips out of larger stock using a circular saw & straight edge and clamps, I have no idea how to approach it. Any advice would be appreciated.


Thanks,
Chris.

Hi Chris
assuming you have a decent #5 hand plane and the blade is sharp, I'd use a sticking board and plane the taper -- just watch the direction of the grain
if you have a scrub plane taking off most of the excess is very quick and the #5 would be used to finish

this should be much faster than building a jig to safely support a circular saw and straight edge

Hi guys,

Thank you all for your considered replies, nothing opens your eyes like other people's years of experience.

The jig & CS idea is certainly do-able, but I can see myself doing this by scribing & hand planing, so I might give that a shot

cheers,
Chris.

Good luck with it Chris, I'm sure it will work well for you