Need advice on Borrowed Table Saw!!

**Milo** · 31st March 2009, 08:26 PM

Hi All

Well getting into this woodwork lark is an expensive exercise especially when you want to start getting serious about accuracy when cutting your precious good wood.

Following on from my help with my Triton set up thread, life just became a little easier with the news that a new friend I met through the local bike shop has a very good quality saw table. I don't know the exact model but its a JET machine, probably about 4-5 years old and still in very good condition. The owner is a whizz with metal work and has added on a router table conversation so it has a router table plus saw table all in one, plus its mobile due to a wood base on casters.

All good news and he has said I can keep it as long as I like!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The only issue is that he tells me a little adjusting screw or nut broke and it needs a tune up. He hasn't used it in a year or so, so my question is...is there anyone that I can take it to,,,,to get a tune up and set it up properly???

Gregory Machine works who sell Jet are around the corner and I will give them a call tomorrow.

This makes my new project easier as my Triton 2000 set up is not accurate enough and I really struggle to get it set up.

Another question is…..

I am going to need a “thicknisser” as I am making a replica og my late Dad’s tool box and it was made in inches etc….what is a good quality entry level machine? I am not going to get a Riyobi from Bunnings cause that will just be a piece of crap.

Your advice for a newbie will be fantastic!

Milo

**Johncs** · 1st April 2009, 01:35 AM

Originally Posted by Milo

Another question is…..

I am going to need a “thicknisser” as I am making a replica og my late Dad’s tool box and it was made in inches etc….what is a good quality entry level machine? I am not going to get a Riyobi from Bunnings cause that will just be a piece of crap.

How else would you plane the timber?

A thicknesser is next on my list. I'm guessing that if the Ryobi isn't much good (and there are complaints on this forum about snipe - and a cure -) then the others in the same price bracket will be of similar quality.

Around the $600 mark, one can get a thicknesser that has a digital dial, likely of value to those ith aging eyes.

About the tuneup, see thewoodwhisperer at youtube. He has a two-part video the subject.

**Ashes** · 1st April 2009, 10:28 PM

Don't discount using the services of timber yards, clubs and woodworking shops for small amounts of work like thicknessing and jointing and especially when starting out some instruction on the use of these machines will save a lot of mistakes and timber! Have a good hunt around. I'm sure some of the guys on the forum in your area can point you in the right direction.

**blackhole** · 1st April 2009, 10:36 PM

Along the lines of what Ashes said

http://www.woodnyou.com/

**petersemple** · 2nd April 2009, 11:11 AM

Second woodnyou

Peter

**munruben** · 2nd April 2009, 11:05 PM

I have a cheap one, the Ozzito and I have had it for a couple of years. Its given me no trouble but I have only used it on pine and small pieces of other timber. Its still going strong.

**Rookie** · 3rd April 2009, 11:31 AM

I have the Ryobi, and yes, it does produce snipe. Otherwise, I have no issues with it. All the other machines of that design will produce snipe. You can go to extraordinary lengths to avoid it as Jake did, or you can just allow for extra length on the timber because of it. I do the latter. The snipe can be reduced or eliminated the more you reduce the depth of cut. It's because of the springs on the rollers vs the strength of what is essentiually an H frame. Won't go there though because it been done to death.

But, all that design, IMHO, can produce snipe. Then it just comes down to the quality of the parts and the blades.

**GraemeCook** · 3rd April 2009, 04:47 PM

Originally Posted by Rookie

I have the Ryobi, and yes, it does produce snipe. Otherwise, I have no issues with it. All the other machines of that design will produce snipe. You can go to extraordinary lengths to avoid it as Jake did, or you can just allow for extra length on the timber because of it. I do the latter. The snipe can be reduced or eliminated the more you reduce the depth of cut. It's because of the springs on the rollers vs the strength of what is essentiually an H frame. Won't go there though because it been done to death.

But, all that design, IMHO, can produce snipe. Then it just comes down to the quality of the parts and the blades.

I have an Icon thicknesser which cost $109 from M10 last year - have never seen/heard of one cheaper than that. Suspect it was GMC's cheaper line.

If I push a push stick (the same thickness as the stuff being planed) through the thicknesser then there is no snipe. The push stick holds the rollers in place.

Cheers

Graeme

Thread: Need advice on Borrowed Table Saw!!

Thread Tools

Search Thread

Need advice on Borrowed Table Saw!!

Similar Threads

Advice for a new table saw up to $2k

borrowed bandsaw tracking issue

Need advice about GMC router and table.

Advice needed for new table saw

Router Table advice

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions