Thread: Advice on Door making

Have you considered a tongue and groove our using a domino? Either would be stronger than a biscuit.

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Thanks ToungeTied,

When you say "tounge and groove" I think thats what I had in mind with the router and creating a "biscuit" or tounge to run the length of the panel.

I've never heard of a domino, but just googled it and looks interesting. Might be harder to make than a tounge and groove unless I buy a machine.

My theory was, I could try to use a table saw to cut a 5mm piece, 60mm deep making the tounge, and then use the router (or table saw again) to make the 30mm groove on each side. Add some glue and a rubber mallet and it presto!

But will it be strong enough ? of will that joint be a weakness ?

*EDIT: I mean EASIER to make the tounge and groove. I also like the idea of using the same material to join the panels. Same tensile strength, expansion rates etc if I make the tounge out of the Red Gum.

Domino theory for me Maybe you could rent a domino machine for a day. they make pretty big domino bikkies so that would add real strength.

And 'maybe' a groove along top and bottom for a steel bar to reinforce, just a thought, they would be hidden anyway. Lot easier than those holes, even though they would only be top and bottom I reckon that's worth a thought.

Make sure the timber is properly dry. Otherwise you'll go to all this trouble to make a beautiful door and hang it - then find its 20mm too narrow in 5 years time.

Originally Posted by John.G

Make sure the timber is properly dry. Otherwise you'll go to all this trouble to make a beautiful door and hang it - then find its 20mm too narrow in 5 years time.

Good tip! The wood was all dressed. It is reported to be KD Red Gum, so I expect it *should* be ok. The shop seemed reputable, so I am assuming the kiln drying was done properly, and hope I dont get too much shinkage/expansion/warpage etc.

Originally Posted by tfindlay

I thought about it in more detail, just gluing the boards would make it week horizontally, some truck driver with a big foot could kick the door in the middle and it would fold up like an accordion. I dont want this to be a barn style door with a Z brace on the back if I can avoid it. If this works well, it will be our new front door to the house.

There is a reason plank doors are generally made in a ledge and brace design - structural integrity.

Steamingbill put up a thread yesterday with interesting links, including door designs. The article on ledge and brace doors is worth reading to consider some design issues.

I think if it's a strong door you're after I'd be sticking with your first option, but instead of an aluminium tube I'd be using threaded rod and clamping all your redgum. I did this several years ago for our front and back doors. Your 80 mm of quill travel shouldn't be a problem. If you set up from both sides and drill to your depth (ie 80mm) you can then use this hole as a guide to finish drilling with a long series twist drill in a pistol drill. I'd be clamping the timber to an angle plate for the initial holes though. Don't rely on the narrow face on the drill press table for squareness. You'ld then need to counterbore the holes deep enough to take the nut and washer and also a timber plug to finish it off. You may have some trouble finding anyone that has a thicknesser that will take that width. I got onto a local door manufacturer. Corinithian I think it was. Somewhere in Scorsby as I recall and they put my doors through their drum sander. They came out terrific. I then sealed the front door with BoteCote epoxy. It gets full strength summer sun from the west and it's held up well.
I have all the gear for the job, so PM me if you want.

Thanks everyone for the advice.

I like the idea of the threaded bar, it would have to be galvanized or whatever, but maybe 4 x M12 bars, with some decent washer and nuts to bind it together. I could cut out some clean wooden inserts to cap the ends off.

Easier to bore a 14mm hole, I have some spare bits I can test with, will try using a new auger bit and see how it goes. I have a few hand drills, but doubt I'll get the accuracy I'm looking for with them.

As for thickess-ing, I dont have one myself, so always planned to put in the car and take it to someone else. I was thinking the wood shop up at woodend, but happy to visit Corinthian doors if they can help. I'll look them up for sure. It will need to be an industrial machine and with KD Red Gum, I expect they will charge me a bit for wear on the blades.

You've got the option of zinc or gal plating regarding the all thread. It will be pretty much sealed, so I'd just go for the zinc. It's pretty cheap stuff if you go the Dandy Bolts or Bayswater Bolts. Bunnings are pretty expensive from memory. For 45mm thick I'd be inclinded to go for M16, but it's up to you of course.
Accuracy in drilling should not be a problem. If you square a line on one face and transfer to both edges, then find the centre of your 45. I'd be clamping an angle plate to your drill press table and make sure you just use one face of each board as the datum against the angle plate. You will probably need to set up supports either side of your table. If you drill the full length of your quill travel from both sides it will leave only about 38mm to drill by hand from both sides. With a 80mm long guide hole, you won't have any trouble alighning the holes from each side. I'd also be inclined to use a twist drill or auger bit the same size as the all thread. If you keep the accuracy close when drilling, this will make the board alighnment a lot easier when it comes to assembly.
I think I paid around $80.00 to have the front door done. It took four guys to lift it out of the trailer!!
Good luck.

Hi Folks,

Just a quick update, not a lot to report.

I brought 2 x M16 auger bits and the galvanized threaded bar from masters for < $50 which seemed reasonable. I never liked masters, but as they are closing down, I figured why not.
I also had some old red mahogany lying around, so using my little press I did some tests and the holes came out really clean and the had a snug fit with the bar.

I quickly realised my drill press was too small, so I signed up with a shared workshop place near by and going to head up Tuesday and see how that goes. The guy sounded pretty friendly and I think using the right tools will help me get a better finish.

I'll take some photos as things start to progress.

I've just seen this thread, so apologies if I'm too late with the following.

I think your proposed design and construction method sucks.

There are very good reasons that doors use frame and panel, ledge and brace, or skin on frame construction.

May I suggest that you build a conventional frame and panel door where the door's strength comes from the mortice and tenon joinery between the styles and the top and bottom rails.
Your red gum planks can be glued up into a solid panel and inserted to "float" within the frame formed by the rail and styles.
Alternatively, you could get the red gum resawn to 15 - 20 mm thick and use it to skin a door frame constructed with top, bottom and lock rails.

Originally Posted by ian

I've just seen this thread, so apologies if I'm too late with the following.

I think your proposed design and construction method sucks.

There are very good reasons that doors use frame and panel, ledge and brace, or skin on frame construction.

May I suggest that you build a conventional frame and panel door where the door's strength comes from the mortice and tenon joinery between the styles and the top and bottom rails.
Your red gum planks can be glued up into a solid panel and inserted to "float" within the frame formed by the rail and styles.
Alternatively, you could get the red gum resawn to 15 - 20 mm thick and use it to skin a door frame constructed with top, bottom and lock rails.

I have to strongly disagree with you here Ian. I have made three doors using this method and they are extremely rigid and stable. No other construction method would come close in comparision for strength. No one could ever kick my doors in!!
I guess it comes down to the economics of the build. Conventional designs would be far qicker and cheaper.

Originally Posted by ian

I think your proposed design and construction method sucks.

Fair comment, you are entitled to your opinion.

Originally Posted by ian

There are very good reasons that doors use frame and panel, ledge and brace, or skin on frame construction.

I can appreciate that convention differs from my approach. If I wanted convention I would buy any old door from a hardware shop. I actually wanted something different, something uncommon.
This uncommon approach will be different aesthetically, mechanically and comes at a different price point.

Originally Posted by ian

May I suggest that you build a conventional frame and panel door where the door's strength comes from the mortice and tenon joinery between the styles and the top and bottom rails.
Your red gum planks can be glued up into a solid panel and inserted to "float" within the frame formed by the rail and styles.
Alternatively, you could get the red gum resawn to 15 - 20 mm thick and use it to skin a door frame constructed with top, bottom and lock rails.

Good ideas if you want a conventional door. Thats not what I'm going for here, the motivation behind the project is to do something different.

As Gestalt has mentioned, I believe the mechanical properties of the door will be more than adequate (strength). I am already aware it will be exceedingly heavy which I am also prepared for.

There is one other consideration - hanging the beastie.

4 blokes to lift it to thickness sand it will mean a few meaty chaps to help with the hanging.

There is a consideration of hinges too. Those will want to be chosen wisely.