Thread: What is the most appropriate wood filler and stain for Tasmanian Oak?

G'day Joel,

Good pictures would be a fine start. It's a bit difficult to offer any meaningful advice without seeing some idea of what the issue(s) is/are.

Once you do that, I'm sure that there will be ample responses to steer you in the right direction.

Several photos, full shot, some joints and some angles











If there's any other close-ups you'd like, please let me know!

OK
I'm looking at
layout lines
glue spread
edges straight off the saw
rough, splintered edges


Can you take the shelves apart ?
if yes, do so and sand everything to 320 grit, starting at 80 and working through 120, 180, 240 to 320. When you get to 180 wet the surface to raise the grain and sand it flat before moving onto the 240 (repeat the wetting to raise the grain at both 240 and 320).

IMO, using filler to and try and hide the gaps around the joints will look crap and probably not work
far better to use a contrasting timber to "highlight" the joints.


If you can't take the shelves apart, you'll need to sand and scrap to remove the glue, lines and saw marks.

Sorry if I've offended you with poor craftsmanship.. it was kinda rushed being a school project.

That's a lot of sanding, must it be done by hand? or could I use an orbital sander and/or belt sander?

It's been assembled using dowel and PVA.

I tend to agree with Ian... but to answer your question, the best filler, IMO, is simply the sawdust from sanding that particular piece of timber mixed into a workable putty with a 'clear' PVA.

By 'clear' I mean that it dries clear(ish) which eliminates many of the better glues such as Titebond III, Triton or most yellow PVAs.

This approach is best used for minor imperfections, though. Large gaps will always be fairly obvious no matter how carefully you match the filler.

Could you not just paint it or isn't that allowed?

Selleys Plastic wood gives a reasonable result and will take stain OK,it comes in several colours.i have used maple on tassie oak withclear poly not too bad.

Originally Posted by GIJoel

Sorry if I've offended you with poor craftsmanship.. it was kinda rushed being a school project.

That's a lot of sanding, must it be done by hand? or could I use an orbital sander and/or belt sander?

It's been assembled using dowel and PVA.

Joel
You haven't offended me and I wouldn't describe your work as poor craftsmanship

I merely listed the things that would need to be removed or fixed to make applying a clear finish worth the effort.
Of course, if you use an opaque paint some of the things wouldn't need to be removed.

Yes it is a lot of sanding and if you can't take the shelves apart, using a machine will be a challenge.
Skipping any of the grits will only make more work for you.


What are you looking to achieve?

sanding, filler and iron-on veneer tape might disguise some of the gaps.

Any suggestions upon disassembly? I imagine the PVA won't give in easy.

I want to use the cabinet for clothes, shoes and various items.

Joel

if you're still working on this, heat from a clothes iron applied directly over the joint should soften PVA

Hello

Here's what I would do (like the design by the way).

For the vertical on the left of the pic I would use iron on edge veneer full width top to bottom. This will cover the front gaps.

For the gaps on the left top inside (ie the ones you can see - wouldn't bother with any you can't see) and any of those that are on the top against the angled pieces the gaps appear large so I would cut over size sliver wedges with the grain the same as the horizontal piece. You can then tap these in with white PVA and carefully chisel off most of the excess when dry - maybe leave a little proud for sanding.

This will require patience but as the wedge will be in tight there should then be no gaps. I would cut the wedges as an off square resaw on a bandsaw at school? If the shelves flex a lot these may pop over time of course but you can tap them back in.

Now to finish (hopefully you haven't dismantled). Buy one of those cheap small iron (mouse) shaped palm sanders say $40-$60 from Bunnings (or see if you can borrow one) They are not random but take most of the hard work out. Some of them have a flip down nose for getting in tight spots.

As as been said plenty of patience here and go through the grits to the finest you can get them in for the sander and then by hand for the finer ones.

That should get rid of the pencil and glue marks (eventually).

The other thing is that they are shelves so a lot of the horizontal surfaces will be covered so it may not matter about being too fussy. Only you will know were the areas for improvement next time are.

Finishing I mostly just use an oil with some substance in it (eg fine buffing oil or similar). Then build up 4-6 layers depending on final sanding and porosity of the timber. The trick with this is to wipe on then leave for the first three coats (basically a filler) then for the last two or three wipe on and then leave until tacky and wipe with the same cloth (spreads the sticky wax stuff left after the volatiles have gone). This builds up a low sheen wax type finish showing the grain. If you want to stain do that first and let dry. I've always used oil based stains to my colour liking - always personal choice try test pieces first

Hope that helps.