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  1. #1
    rrich Guest

    Default Attaching a Table Top

    I'm going to use those metal figure "8" fasteners to attach the top of the coffee table that I'm building.


    The top is about 800 by 600 with the grain parallel to the 800 edge.
    Do I use the fasteners only on the 600 sides? The fasteners would be installed parallel to the grain so any wood movement would just cause the fasteners to twist as they are intended to do.

    Others have said to put them only along the 800 edge or perpendicular to the grain. (To me that seems to be a sure design for disaster.)

    Some have said to put the fasteners on all four edges. (Other than selling more hardware I don't understand why.)

    Any advice would be appreciated.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    5,014

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rrich View Post
    Any advice would be appreciated.
    Why not just use buttons?

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    pambula
    Posts
    30

    Default

    I have been trying to get the figure 8 fastners, but the hardware store did not know what I was asking for (Mitre 10).

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Sunbury, Vic
    Age
    84
    Posts
    2,719

    Default

    Mitre 10 down here stocks them in small blister packs so they should be able to get them for you
    Tom

    "It's good enough" is low aim

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Brisbane (western suburbs)
    Age
    77
    Posts
    12,136

    Default

    Rrich,
    When deciding where/how to put your fasteners, think about what you're trying to achieve.

    Most of the seasonal wood movement occurs ACROSS the grain, so the significant coming & going will occur along the short (600mm) dimension. Therefore, you definitely want to put fasteners that allow for movement (i.e. your figure 8 fasteners, wooden 'buttons', screws through elongated holes in cleats, or whatever other method you can dream up that sticks the top to the undercarriage, but allows the top to expand & contact a little).

    Wood movement ALONG the grain is usually considered negligble, so theoretically, you could just screw it down through a couple of angled holes in the skirt & not worry too much. Sure, your top is going to expand and contract, but unless you've used thumping great rails 2 inches thick, they will easily flex a little to accomodate that.

    In practice, it's just as easy to use the same fixing method all round as alter it for long and short grain sides, so my advice - use the figure 8s all round. Either pre-slot the rails on the table saw before assembly, or run a router with a slotting bit around after assembly.

    Easy peasy,
    IW

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    ballarat
    Posts
    29

    Default

    as ianw says you could just do the angle holes with countersink in your side rails just make sure your holes thru rails have some clearence so it can move i prefer to stay away from fig 8s and other fastners as i feel they look cheap and nasty but if content to use fig 8s all the way around should be fine other option could be those table top brackets that fix to top and u have a biscuit groove on inside of side rails that the brackets turn into biscuit slots and top is held down tight but free to move with expantion and contraction

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Tolmie - Victoria
    Age
    68
    Posts
    4,010

    Default

    Check out this thread where it was discussed how to make buttons.

    Making Buttons
    - Wood Borer

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