Thread: some basic technique/s ???

try these links
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z4ch9px_ZHk
Tips on Fore Planes and Flattening Panels - Popular Woodworking Magazine
Lee Valley Tools - Woodworking Newsletter
The Thousand-Dollar Shop: Flattening Glued-up Panels

thanks again Ian

If any one in SEQ or Nth NSW wants to sell a USA made Stanley #5, #5 1/2, #7 or #8 let me know. I also have 6 "PAX" handsaws Im willing to trade

Get yourself a toothed blade for your LN #62.


and you could add a #6 to your list of planes.


also, the #8 is a beast of a plane -- unless you are seriously into hand work, you may find the #6 or #7 more usable.

thanks Ian,

Will definetly get a toothed blade for the #62... maybe even the 55 degree version as well.

I was hesitant to have a go with the #62 (only hand plane atm) so had a go with my old Festo planer. Set it to about 0.4mm and got to work. Suffered a little tear out but not too bad. (See pic) Then used my belt sander with 100 grit paper. I have a lot to learn about grain direction and wood type!

I have only started to dress the inside face of my panels. I have a theroy, and it may well be incorrect....

The overall size of the box will be 2000 L x 540 W x 320 H. Since the material is only 18~19 thick, It still can be manipulated across its width. I.e. "flexed". The "box" will have 2 ends and one central divider across its width, a second steel plate divder half way in one section added after finishing, again across its width

I do not have a good flat work bench. My idea is that if I get the insides pretty good for no large deviations (humps/hollows) even if its slightly cupped across its width, the end and divider pieces will then true the top and bottom panels up somewhat when they are glued and clamped up. Then once in its final postion, I will surface finish the outside faces.

I guess I will see if this works out??

Advice on Mitre'd corners.

Im going to mitre and biscut the corners. I am going to cut the mites with my good old Mafell 55 and a straight edge. I could then run a 45 degree router bit over the cut, or, If the saw set and the saw cut accurate enough, will that be enough.

I also plan on using rachet straps around the box on glue up? or clamped blocked ends? any ideas on that ?

pics showing tear out and relative flatness:

Originally Posted by Husq2100

Thanks for those replies Ian

any links to vids of basic panel board flattening? I searched youtube but didnt find that much going into detail etc. One the guy was planing 90 degrees to the grain??

My second lot of lamination came up better than the first. I did the same set up just a bit more attention and 2nd go is always easier than the first. Worst across the full board would be about 3 mm gap at one outer edge, worst deviation between boards would be maybe 1mm.

cheers
Serg

Hi Serg

Your #62 is a versatile plane. The blade that comes with it is likely honed at 25 degrees. That is fine for planing across the grain (called traversing), which is necessary when levelling a panel. As Ian suggested earlier, get a second blade, and hone a secondary bevel on it at a higher angle for use when planing with the grain. If the wood you are using is prone to tear out, then a high angle will help, say 50 degrees (it is rarely necessary to go higher than that). Use a honing guide to do this. If the wood is straight grained, then a 38 degree bevel will be sufficient.

Regards from Perth

Derek

thanks Derek.

I knew the low angle preferd for end grain triming, but didnt think it good for traverse planing face grain?

Well my theroy on dressing/flattening the panel inside only first was crap! Even though the pannels were not horrible on the outside face for flush and flat, the mitre cuts did not end up as straight as needed. This is because the cupping of individual boards and overall un-eveness allows the power saw to cut in slight arcs, even when going in a straight line against a straight edge. basic geometry. The high spots produce a longer edge and the low spots a shorter edge....

I havent had a chance to do any more on the EU. Just looked at the panels, which I have laid flat one on top of the other, on the work bench. They have definitely moved since last time working on them. Cupping across the entire panel with 4~6mm gap in centre!

Hot weather? Humidity? Is it because the face grain has been worked? THey are in a double garage with the tilt door facing east and 3.5m high ceilings. Id say they would not be coping much direct sunlight at all...

Originally Posted by Husq2100

which I have laid flat one on top of the other, on the work bench

There's your problem. Panels must always be stacked with sticks between each one and between the bench and the bottom panel to allow even airflow and even moisture gain/loss over both sides.

This can be corrected naturally by laying them in the sun; the edges will curl upwards as the top side heats up and shrinks due to losing moisture. Check on progress regularly as it's easy to leave it too long and have them cup too far the other way.

hey all,

I placed some off cuts of 11mm FJpine inbetween the pannels for the week. They came up pretty good.

I got the last bits and pieces done today ready for glue up of main carcass. I did a dry run , full clamp and strap. All looked as good as hoped given the uneven mitres due to not so flat panels. I knew it would be fiddly so I glued in all the biscuits first cleaning excess as I went, then glued and assembled. Im a bit disapointed with the mitres. They didnt come up as good as the dry run. Not much I can do about it now. Ended up 2mm within square across the front diagonals.

any tips on how best to fill the openings in the Mitred corners? I have only rough finished the outside of the carcass with #100 belt sander. I am concerned that when I do the finishing that any sanding on the corners will expose the open bits more ( the thinner the board gets the shorter the long point of the mitre gets)

pva and sanding dust?

Also looking for tips on how to attach the legs. They will be tapered in section and on a outward angle (not sure if 1 or both planes yet) The will be approx 80x38 where they meet the carcass base. The bottom perimeter rail will be approx 50x38 and will be set in from the outer edges "what ever looks good" lol This will be glued and biscuited to the base. The 4 legs will be at the corner of the bottom rail

What about leg length to finish? Cut and install them longer than needed and trim off insitu? or final length and install?

cheers
Serg

Originally Posted by Husq2100

any tips on how best to fill the openings in the Mitred corners? I have only rough finished the outside of the carcass with #100 belt sander. I am concerned that when I do the finishing that any sanding on the corners will expose the open bits more ( the thinner the board gets the shorter the long point of the mitre gets)

pva and sanding dust?

NO

perhaps the best "repair" is to rout out the gap to 4 or 5 mm and insert a strip of contrasting hardwood. When sander flush it will frame the corners and look like part of the design, rather than a repair

Good idea Ian, and have already been thinking how to set up my 1/4" trimmer on the 45 to do so.

I'll keep it as a option but would prefer to clean the mitres up if possible. I'm after a simple modern look. The left side bay will have a simple white door opening up. The right side will be open.

Realistically there is no simple way to clean up your miters.
any sort of filler will stand out like the proverbial.

your options are pretty limited.
You could insert contrasting wood into the sides and top that when brought flat to the sides and top looked like a deliberate accent.

as suggested above you could insert a contrasting strip along the gap that makes a feature of the join. This is relatively easy to do.

you could repair the gaps by inserting a piece of the original wood on the side that exactly matches the grain of the surrounding wood. This is very difficult to pull off successfully.