Thread: some basic technique/s ???

Sorry for the delay, I'm currently away from home.

You should be able to screw a temporary base to the trimmer to hold is square to the corner while doing the cut.

I organised some 5mm thick x 10mm wide stainless steel. I will finish the corners as best I can first and then if no good, go ahead and insert them. They will sit proud by at 5mm (make a feature of a mistake ;-) ) What would be a good glue to use to bond the stainless to the timber?

Still looking for tips on how to fix the legs???

got the stainless flat bar linished and installed. I cleaned with clear plumbers primer and used West Systems epoxy to glue in (I had some in my cupboard)

Still looking for ideas on leg installation

Originally Posted by Husq2100

Still looking for ideas on leg installation

what style of leg?

can you post a sketch of what you have in mind?

I glued up some 110x18 red oak boards, then ripped in half to make 54x54 sqaures. A local forum member turned them up for me (Neil Wright) did a great job. They are a basic taper. Approx 52mm round at the big end. They are longer than needed so I can play with the angle cuts etc. I got 6 turned so I can make a few mistakes lol.

I want to mount them on a angle in both planes (side and for/aft) easy to make the cut and just spin the correct amount. I was thinking of hand drilling in a single short dowel and locating it in the bottom of carcass as not to come through the base. The carcass will also have 45mm bottom rails butting into the legs right round.

All set back in about 80mm from edges.

Open to other designs or ideas

kinda like this

I got the legs installed. I ended succumbing to the impatient carpenter in me and attached them with 75mm long stainless steel batten screws. Plus glue to base. I figured there would be a fair bit of load and flexing going through the legs when all set up. And any lateral movement when insitu would surely want to rip the legs off.

As I said I'd prefer no rail but the front edge sags a little under its own weight.

The rear will have a full panel of 1.5mm brushed stainless with holes cut on the left side for cables and I'm trying to come up with a design that will create a screen pattern but still be somewhat structural on the right side. There will also be a stainless divider front to back in the left side bay.

Originally Posted by Husq2100

I got the legs installed. I ended succumbing to the impatient carpenter in me and attached them with 75mm long stainless steel batten screws.

sounds an OK method to me

Originally Posted by Husq2100

As I said I'd prefer no rail but the front edge sags a little under its own weight.

in that case I suggest you add a pair of long rails (say 80 x 20) installed behind the legs with the 80 mm vertical. If I have the proportions right in my mind, the rails will be invisible unless you are sitting on the floor when looking at the unit.

Originally Posted by ian

in that case I suggest you add a pair of long rails (say 80 x 20) installed behind the legs with the 80 mm vertical. If I have the proportions right in my mind, the rails will be invisible unless you are sitting on the floor when looking at the unit.

I sat the unit on the floor (legs not trimmer to height yet, but only about 30mm longer than finish) I set up a chair at the distance my couch will be back from it. Chair height and couch height very similar, except couch will sink a little lower into. With a 50mm rail clamped up behind front legs, I was still able to see 10~15mm. I think, astheticly, you either want to see nothing or something...not part of something. Plus behind the front legs puts it 130mm back which is getting away from where it needs to do its job.

Im going to play around with some finger jointed pine (cheap) to get some idea of what will look good size wise, I may even try a tapered "beam" being deeper vertically in the middle than ends.. The other thing I had in mind was stainless angle, but that may be too much stainless look, rather than features.

I met with the S/S laser cutter and went over my designs. Waiting on a quote...its not going to be cheap but will only do this once lol. This S/S will provide some structural support but not much at front unfortunately

Most the tv weight will be at the back. Most the big amp at one end - front to back. But if the unit already has a 3mm sag in middle at front under its own weight, its only going to get worse with time, gravity and equipment on it.

I got the first bottom rail installed. I ended up using some 110x18 cut down to 92x18 and fitted it 80mm back from the edge. I also glue/screw laminated a piece of 76x25x2.5 aluminium box section behind it. Fitting the rail to the legs was a bit crude but I am a wood butcher after all. I simply cut a 5 degree mitre on the face of the rail, then flipped it and cut a 11.5 degree mitre and 27 degree bevel which made it bevel on the edge section from 27 degrees at the short point to 0 degrees at the long point of mitre. Sort of a twisted compound cut results. This is as close a fit as I could get to the leg. I then marked the leg and chiseled out what needed to make fit. I did this as to remove the least amount of material from th legs.

I used sikabond polyurethane to glue the Aluminium to the Red Oak. First I drilled all the holes, then sanded to 120g and then cleaned with plumbers solvent (clear) to clean and etch. Aluminium is a bugger to get adhesives to "etch" to.

Just some little 6g x 12mm pan head scews to attach in both directions.

Aquadhere exterior to glue the lot to the carcass.

I got the first finish coat on yesterday. Finsh sanded to #400. Im using a "Maloof mix" 1/3 pure Tung oil, 1/3 boiled Linseed oil, 1/3 Polyurethene.

Hope it comes out ok.

yes, the legs are not cut to length yet. Im waiting on the stainless steel, which may tweek the cabinet once installed, so will cut the after, coat equal coats, but before finish coats.