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Thread: some basic technique/s ???
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1st February 2017, 12:13 PM #1Intermediate Member
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some basic technique/s ???
Hi all,
Ive just started making my own entertainment unit. Biscuit jointed and glued up the first 3 boards of American Red Oak. Where the boards meet they are not flush in all areas. What would be the techniques used to get the boards flush prior to finish sanding? I dont have access to any jointer, thicknesser or drum sanders. I do have belt and orbital sanders and happy to buy a hand plane if a good option. In fact a good long hand plane (#7/8) would have been handy to prep the edges for joining but made do with my makita cordless planer. (not ideal)
also can someone give a breif description what the various length/#bench planes (think stanely type) were used for.
cheers
Serg
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1st February 2017 12:13 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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1st February 2017, 09:35 PM #2Taking a break
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A 4 or 5 is a nice size to clean up any high spots if you have one (or want an excuse to get one), then onto the belt sander starting at 80 grit and finishing at 120 grit, from there you can use the orbital.
Belt sanders are very aggressive and the golden rule is NEVER leave it in one spot. Hold it at 45 degrees to the grain when you're flattening, then hold it along the grain to clean up the scratches, and move in a sweeping motion at 90 degrees to the belt (basically sweep sideways with the sander). You don't need to apply a lot of pressure, just let it float over the surface, and be sure you're well balanced, have a comfortable grip on the sander and keep it flat at all times.
I'd be going:
Plane (optional)
80 grit at 45 degrees
80 grit along the grain
100 grit along the grain
120 grit along the grain
Orbital 120 grit and working up as far as you like (I normally call it quits at 180 or 240)
Side note: when you're gluing up panels, alternating your clamps over and under will help balance the pressure and keep it flat.
For descriptions of Stanley planes, see here: The Superior Works - Patrick's Blood & Gore: Preface it's probably the most comprehensive guide in existence.
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2nd February 2017, 01:05 PM #3Intermediate Member
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Thanks for that ej,
I have a Lie Nielsen #62 low angle jack plane that I bought myself 20 years ago! I was wondering if the low angle not so suitable for the job, or if longer planes were prefered?
I was also a bit concerned regarding the use of the belt sander as my experience with them (in construction) was a lot of clean up after to remove "scratches"
good idea regarding the alternate clamping!. My edge preperation was far from great, not geting it square to the face which then, along with one sided pressure works to bow the completed section. I did however use a straight edge to make sure all the pipes were true. One end is packed up to remove the wind/twist.
Ill have a look at "blood and gore"
cheers
Serg
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2nd February 2017, 06:18 PM #4Taking a break
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The 62 will work if you hone a very steep (about 55 degrees) secondary bevel, close the mouth and work with the grain as much as possible; bevel up planes aren't as good as bevel down planes in reversing grain. It wouldn't be my first choice, but it will work.
The length isn't really a factor for smoothing unless you want to get the whole top dead flat, if anything, shorter planes are better just because they're a bit easier to handle. My favourite is a 4 1/2; length of a 4 for easy handling, width of a 6 makes it super stable.
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2nd February 2017, 06:51 PM #5
Serg
Have you considered finding a cabinet shop which will pass your panel through their drum sander ?
You can do the job with your #62, but I suggest you get a second blade that you can set one up with a pronounced curve to use as a scrub.regards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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2nd February 2017, 07:01 PM #6Taking a break
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A low angle scrub plane? Now there's a concept I never thought I'd hear of...
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3rd February 2017, 01:10 AM #7
I'm not claiming the originality.
I think there's a vid on LN's youTube channel of Dean using a #62 as a scrub, and then there's this article from FWW. One Bench Plane Can Do it All - FineWoodworking No need to sign up, the heading says enough, and no doubt Stewie (Planemaker) could come along and show us how.regards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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3rd February 2017, 04:24 AM #8SENIOR MEMBER
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Put a little camber on the plane blade. Anything from a #4 up should work fine. After hand planing you should be able to skip the destructive belt sander and move to the orbital. Cheers.
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3rd February 2017, 12:46 PM #9Intermediate Member
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3rd February 2017, 12:54 PM #10Intermediate Member
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I was going to ask this question anyway, as many years ago I had read that the jointing bench planes had a radius or curve on the blade. How much?
funny thing is a few years ago I sold my old Stanley #4 1/2 and #7 as they had never been used since my apprenticeship as a carpenter. They were both USA made, sweet heart types (pat date apr 10 or such)
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3rd February 2017, 01:00 PM #11Intermediate Member
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what about using a good hand held electric planner?
regarding laying out the boards for edge lamination. What is the priority? For me it was appearence. Then secondly was how well the boards mated edge to edge, as they were not straight (in the bow'd direction) I did not look at end gain and I did not look how crown'd they were (up and down bow). My second priority, straightness, is not really correct I guess, as most of your guy/girls would "joint" them true anyway.
regarding the uneveness of the surface, one thing I found was, I had a "lamello" brand biscuit in my stock and it was a more snug fit in the groove than the ones purchased from bunnings. It did verneer up as thicker, but a sample number of 1 is not really enough to get a good gauge if that would be consistant?
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4th February 2017, 05:03 PM #12
this is the YouTube vid I was referring to
Deneb is using a toothed blade in his #62
https://youtu.be/deCM0x575-Y?list=PL76ED2FC43576D6AFregards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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4th February 2017, 05:08 PM #13
it depends on how flat is flat enough for your purpose.
I would expect that hand planning would produce a panel slightly thinner than one passed through a wide drum sander, BUT depending on the amount of cupping, and the wind you packed the clamp to compensate for, industrial scale machine flattening might result in a thinner board than would be acceptable in a unit built by hand where inconsistent panel thickness, and slight deviation from flat, can be adjusted for.regards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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4th February 2017, 05:11 PM #14
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4th February 2017, 05:26 PM #15
for general use, the camber is in the order of "just enough" to be visible, see http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/blog/sharpening2.pdf
regards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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