Thread: How to Bevel an Edge

You can do it with nothing more than a hand plane. Just mark the angle on the ends, mark a straight line between them and plane away.
An electric plane will make it faster, but isn't necessary.

Originally Posted by elanjacobs

You can do it with nothing more than a hand plane. Just mark the angle on the ends, mark a straight line between them and plane away.
An electric plane will make it faster, but isn't necessary.

Thanks, that was my first option.

I've come across a couple of articles about angled shooting boards which I might try too.

Cheers,

Chris

WHS re hand plane.

Could use jointer if many pieces for consistency, but may be dangerous depending on width of stock

Those cabinets look like they are veneered chipboard with an applied solid edge strip. The top and bottom strips have probably been beveled on a square board by passing through the table saw with the blade angled, cleaned up with a hand plane, then cut off to required width with the blade set back to vertical. Can you tilt the blade on a Triton?

Originally Posted by Fuzzie

Those cabinets look like they are veneered chipboard with an applied solid edge strip. The top and bottom strips have probably been beveled on a square board by passing through the table saw with the blade angled, cleaned up with a hand plane, then cut off to required width with the blade set back to vertical. Can you tilt the blade on a Triton?

I don't think the blade on a Triton MKIII can be tilted - that would be the easiest.

I read somewhere that you can tilt the saw when set up in cross cut mode and bevel anything up to 700mm wide? Nail your stick securely to a carrier board so it can be held safely in cross cut mode and rip it. Maybe that applies to a different model Triton.

Found a link on the MK3 crosscut operation. I guess a lot would depend on how wide your intended cabinets will be.

http://www.tritontools.uk.com/mk3crosscutsaw.html

Originally Posted by Fuzzie

Found a link on the MK3 crosscut operation. I guess a lot would depend on how wide your intended cabinets will be.

http://www.tritontools.uk.com/mk3crosscutsaw.html

Thanks, I'll have a look but I don't think it will be wide enough.

Originally Posted by Fuzzie

Those cabinets look like they are veneered chipboard with an applied solid edge strip. The top and bottom strips have probably been beveled on a square board by passing through the table saw with the blade angled, cleaned up with a hand plane, then cut off to required width with the blade set back to vertical. Can you tilt the blade on a Triton?

Exactly. Fuzzie is correct. This is a moulding of solid timber that is first ripped at an angle and then applied.

Chris, you would need the bevel fence for your Triton ...



Not cheap, however. Here is an eBay link: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Triton-Bevel-Ripping-Guide-BRA200-/121657260096

However it can be done by hand. All you need, assuming you are building in solid wood, is to saw the carcase, leaving the upper and lower sections projecting. Then mark/scribe these sections to match the bevel, plane away the bulk with a jack plane, and smooth level with a jointer plane or even a smoother. Pretty standard stuff if you are comfortable with handplanes.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Originally Posted by derekcohen

Exactly. Fuzzie is correct. This is a moulding of solid timber that is first ripped at an angle and then applied.

Chris, you would need the bevel fence for your Triton ...



Not cheap, however. Here is an eBay link: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Triton-Bevel-Ripping-Guide-BRA200-/121657260096

However it can be done by hand. All you need, assuming you are building in solid wood, is to saw the carcase, leaving the upper and lower sections projecting. Then mark/scribe these sections to match the bevel, plane away the bulk with a jack plane, and smooth level with a jointer plane or even a smoother. Pretty standard stuff if you are comfortable with handplanes.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Thanks, but there's a couple of extra problems. Firstly, I'm not sure if that guide would fit on my MKIII Triton, and also I don't think it's worth me getting one even if it did because it's only a couple of cuts.

Secondly, the case itself is ply so planing it isn't an option (I think) however, I'm not making the cabinet in exactly the same way as those shown. I'd like to use internal battens recessed a small amount rather than mouldings that attach outside the cabinet (if that makes sense). As such, the outside of the cabinet doesn't need to be bevelled (it would probably look better but it's not that important). What matters is that the battens follow the shape of the sloping front face and it's the top one that's the problem as it needs a bevel. I was thinking that it mightn't need a bevel but it would look a bit strange if it was at a right angle to the top rather than following the angle of the face (I hope that makes sense - I really need to use Sketchup!).