Thread: blade reccomendations for DeWalt DW110 RAS?

Make sure you know the size of the bore as my dwalt is 30 mm don't get caught as I did.. total tools had blades. Regards Michael

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I have confirmed that the spindle is 16mm - and the scanned copy of the manual for the saw confirms that. it's tooth count I'm not confident in - I tend to use the same balde in my circular saw time after time - but this is a differnt beast, and suitable for more exact work.

thanks,

I have a 24 t blade rough cuts a 40 t blade finer cut s and a 60 or 80 t blade for ply wood or melimine

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DeWalt RASs generally get used an any of four modes, crosscutting, ripping, veneer and melamine, and maybe grooving with a dado blade. Tooth counts are generally similar to what they would be for a table saw, 40-60 for cross cutting, 20-30 for ripping, 80-100 for materials with chippable surfaces (veneer and melamine. With dado sets, there is not much choice of tooth count, so you get stuck with whats available.
The thing to look for is to get a moderate negative rake blade, rather than extremely positive raked blades used on table saws and circular saws. Positive rake blades can tend to lift the work of the table because the blade centre is above rather than below the table. Negative rake blades tend to push the work onto the table and fence surfaces ensuring that it stays put.

Do you have a manual for the saw, or for another in the same DW family? There are particular setup procedures for and sequences for the saws and they need to be followed to the letter for an initial setup, and checked every few months in order for the saw to be as versatile as it was designed to be. I am not familiar with your particular model, but have a fair background in the 8-10in units and setting them up. These generally are imperial saws with 5/8in shafts rather than 16mm (not a big difference but enough to make an excellent blade run off centre and potentially cut deeper than you anticipated. Manuals for many models can be downloaded from the DW web sites.

Edit- Just reread the earlier posts and see mention of "scanned manual" so obviously you have some access to manuals.

Originally Posted by malb

The thing to look for is to get a moderate negative rake blade, rather than extremely positive raked blades used on table saws and circular saws. Positive rake blades can tend to lift the work of the table because the blade centre is above rather than below the table. Negative rake blades tend to push the work onto the table and fence surfaces ensuring that it stays put.

That's the theory, but I tried a negative rake blade in the RAS at work and it was the most dangerous thing I've ever done; it would grab and self-feed all the time. A standard tablesaw crosscut blade is all we use now.

YMMV, but that's my experience.

Caveat, I have owned a RAS and still have all ten. I am NOT a RAS fan.

Blades!
1 ~ Be sure that the blade is a RADIAL ARM SAW BLADE. Do NOT use a table saw blade in the RAS.
A RAS blade has a negative hook angle, meaning that the teeth lean backward from a radial line from the center of the blade. Put the blade next to a table saw blade and the hook angle of the teeth is very obvious.
2 ~ Tooth count is not the governing factor. Get a good combination blade. On a ten inch blade that is a 40 or 50 tooth blade. Usually 8 or 10 groups of 5 teeth. Each group has one raker tooth (Flat topped tooth) on a large gullet followed by 4 ATB (Alternating Top Bevel) teeth.
3 ~ There are some blades called general purpose blades. Some are very expensive and will work exceptionally well up to a timber thickness of about 19MM. My advice is to avoid these blades. As the timber gets thicker, the cut gets tough.

Good luck and be careful.

I Had a Dewalt RAS for years and then Went bigger and bought a Wadkin BRA . I was running the wrong blade on both for a long time . I just bought normal bench saw combination rip and crosscut and would put up with the saw grabbing usually in anything thicker than 50mm .These blades didn't have the negative rake. If the saw was used gently, we, all that used it , could avoid the big grab which would always throw a finely tuned saw completely out of whack, and the saw would no longer be cutting square in one or more ways. A lot of the time this wasn't important, it was only a slightly out, but when I needed it dead true it was a pain.
I just re set up My Wadkin Radial arm saws , I have two now , I went and got the right negative rake blade at 14" which is the right size . previously I used 12". And Its The best its ever been, It just doesn't grab and I'm now cutting 5 inch stuff cleanly . Before at 50mm we could control it but at 75 mm we almost always had a grab.
One thing for sure is a RAS that grabs all the time has people using the thing carefully with both hands in the right place. And that meant no accidents. Young guys were trained on it and tought about the grab from day one. I think if all you ever knew was a nice easy RAS you'd get a hell of a shock the day you got on a big one with the wrong set up and didn't know about it.

The other thing with the RAS is I only ever use them for cross cutting . I dont like changing angles on them and would rather nail a temporary jig with angled fences rather than change the saw and put more than one cut through the fence. Id never rip stuff on the dam things either , Ive got better saws for that . If you only have the RAS and you have to rip then be real careful . All the stuff the RAS was advertised could be done on them over the years was crazy really . It was all " you can do all this amazing stuff " Over head routing and trenching, ripping , but with not a bit of training to be seen for the hobby side of things that I ever saw.
They are great at knocking out lots of cut to length pieces and its a pity they have all the other adjustments that send them out of square is how I always felt about them .

I bought my 14 " RAS negative rake blade from Carbitool Moorabbin, here is their link and the blades are mid column 3 off the bottom. There isnt any choice in tooth count and I doubt it matters .

CARB-I-TOOL - Router Bit and Accessories Catalogue - NOVEMBER 2015

Thanks everyone for the advice. I spent some time on th ephone this morning with Carbitool, and Carbatech and have blades on their way. interesting thing is that they both mentioned using "aluminium blades" as a way of getting a negative rake blade with a higher tooth count if I was worried about chipping.

thanks again, and hopefully this thread will help others in the future.

Des