Thread: What brand of glue?

Gorilla glue is not as generally available in Australia, but from my reading it is pretty popular in the USA, and has been for some years. I'm sure if it was no good, you'd have heard by now. I think Gorilla Glue is a polyurethane - should be fine.

That was a quick reply, thank you. I wasn't sure if it would have any bad effects with staining and oiling surfaces where it may have been cleaned off. Hardware stores here also sell Tite bond brand, so I may try it and see how it does. Lord knows I don't need any help screwing things up.

Thanks again.
Roy

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Here is something that I posted elsewhere.

"Generally, the glue tests that I've seen magazines appear to be more of a joint test rather than a test of glue strength. When reading these test results you should be cognizant of the physics involved in tearing the joints apart.

I've had to tear apart three glue joints at different times. Surprisingly the results were very similar.

If you have two smooth surfaces that are clamped until the glue between them cures, you will have a very strong joint.

The really significant observation was some 2x4 white wood lap joints. One set was with Gorilla Polyurethane glue and the other set was with TiteBond-III. I doubt that there was much of a difference in the "numbers" of the strength required to separate the joints. What was apparent was the degree of wood fiber failure between the two glues.

With Gorilla glue, one side was lightly misted with water and the other side was covered with a thin layer of Gorilla glue. With TiteBond-III, a light coating was applied to both sides of the joint. As per my normal procedure, both joints were clamped and left clamped over night.

In both cases the wood fibers failed before the majority of the glued area. (An interesting statement if you think about it.) With the Gorilla glue, the failure was about 65% of the wood fiber surface area. With the TiteBond-III glue, the failure was about 90% or 95% of the wood fiber surface area.

The third joint taken apart was a face frame joint or end grain to edge grain. Typically the weakest type of joint. The clamping device was Kreg screws. Both pieces of wood were poplar and the glue was TiteBond-III. Long story, short version is the joint was in the wrong place. The joint was disassembled after about 30 to 45 minutes after being closed by the Kreg screws.

Surprisingly, the end grain side of the joint caused wood fiber failure in the edge grain piece. There wasn't a lot of wood fiber failure and parts of the glue were still damp.

There is nothing scientific about these observations. They are just that, observations."

Others have mentioned that TiteBond III tends to dry brownish. In a joint where the edge of the two pieces are visible, the joint line is somewhat less visible. (My words would be blends in better with light brown finishes.)

Thank you. That was very informative and helpful.

Roy