Thanks: 0
Likes: 0
Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 1 to 15 of 24
-
19th June 2006, 02:52 AM #1
Breadboard ends - a different approach
The plans for the rolltop desk I am making suggest attaching the front edging of the draw boards, which can be pulled out from under the writing surface on either side, by glueing the front edging onto the end of the draw board and using panel pins to reinforce the glue joint. Because of the cross-grain problem, this would be asking for the joint to fail over the medium term.
The traditional way of overcoming the cross-grain problem would be to attach the edging as a breadboard end, i.e. having a wide mortice in the edging into which a tongue on the draw board fits, and is glued and pinned in its central part only, to allow for wood movement. In the traditional joint, pins near the ends of the tongue pass through slotted holes to allow for wood movement. However, it is tricky to glue these outer pins into the edging without also inadvertently - and unwantedly - gluing the tongue as well.
It seemed to me that an easier way to attach breadboard ends would be to exploit the ease of cutting accurate mortices with the Rocker morticing jig, and to attach the edging using three floating tenons, only the central one of which would be glued into the edging. The two outer floating tenons would not be glued in their mortices. The outer mortices in the draw board would be a snug fit for the floating tenons, but the corresponding mortices in the edging would be made longer than the tenons, to allow for wood movement.
Can anyone see any drawbacks to my proposed solution to the cross-grain problem? If my explanation is not sufficiently clear, I can produce a diagram. But it is 2 a.m., and I don't feel like firing up TurboCAD.
Rocker
Rocker
-
19th June 2006 02:52 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Posts
- Many
-
19th June 2006, 06:44 AM #2Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2004
- Location
- Ballarat
- Posts
- 64
Rocker,
Looking at the FWW site they use screws for the outer mortices; through slots, which then have wooden plugs, could this not be used?
-
19th June 2006, 09:35 AM #3
mkb,
I suppose that would work, after a fashion, but it involves driving the screws into end-grain. I think perhaps I will use screws in addition to the outer mortices. This belt-and-braces approach should yield a long-lasting joint.
Rocker
-
19th June 2006, 10:16 AM #4
Could be wrong with my interp of your description here but the pins you describe here go thru the edging vertically, do they? If so itoffers some resistance to the pulling action of the draw board being pulled out for use. A floating tenon wouldn't offer this same sort of suppport and would put all the force on the glued tenon in the middle, which would eventually fail, especially if constantly being pulled out from one edge.
If I've read this all wrong, feel free to ignore this comment. :confused:Ramps
When one has finished building one's house, one suddenly realizes that in the process one has learned something that one really needed to know in the worst way--before one began.
-
19th June 2006, 10:42 AM #5
Ramps,
You have a point; hence my intention to use the screws, as suggested by mkb, as well as the floating tenons.
Rocker
-
19th June 2006, 12:05 PM #6
-
19th June 2006, 03:06 PM #7
Bob,
They would work, but they are much harder to cut accurately than mortices and floating tenons, and they would show at the ends of the edging strip.
Here is a pic of an edging strip ready to be mounted on the end of a draw board. The slotted holes are for screws set in countersunk holes that will be plugged. I already had the jarrah floating tenon stock on hand.
Rocker
-
19th June 2006, 05:49 PM #8
As I had suspected would happen, driving screws into the end-grain of the draw board turned out to be totally useless; they would not bite at all. The only way that this would work is if you inserted dowels from underneath for the screws to bite into. I can't be bothered with fiddling with that, so I shall just plug the screw holes. I am pretty sure that the 55 mm wide tenon in the centre has sufficient glue area to hold the edging strip in position firmly, and the lateral floating tenons will keep it properly aligned.
Rocker
-
19th June 2006, 08:27 PM #9
Hi David;
That's the method I used on the hall table with an arch - see: http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...9&d=1147594128
-
19th June 2006, 08:35 PM #10
While too late for this time around, you may like to consider using vertical dowels into slots in the tennon. I used a blind hole, had no problem with gluing either. Another approach to the screw into end grain issue is to do almost what you have done! Drill a hole horizontally instead of vertically and plug with a dowel, seems that the timber in the dowels holds PDW.
Jacko
-
19th June 2006, 09:01 PM #11
Thanks, Jacko; your idea of drilling a hole horizontally into the side edge of the draw board is easy enough to do, and looks like the answer to the problem. I will try it tomorrow.
Steve,
It looks as though you beat me to it with this idea of floating tenons
Rocker
-
21st June 2006, 10:06 PM #12
Inserting short lengths of dowel into 40 mm deep, 9.5 mm holes drilled into the sides of the draw boards worked well and provided good anchorage for the screws inserted into countersunk holes near the ends of the edging strips. I plugged these holes as well as the dowel holes and this produced a neat job. Thanks again, Jacko.
Rocker
-
21st June 2006, 11:57 PM #13
Like the sound of this idea
any chance of a coupla pix to show us what the result looks like?Ramps
When one has finished building one's house, one suddenly realizes that in the process one has learned something that one really needed to know in the worst way--before one began.
-
22nd June 2006, 07:07 AM #14
Here are a couple of pics of the plugged dowel and screw holes.
I attached a cleat on the underside of the draw board near its back end as a stop, to prevent the board from being pulled right out or pushed too far in. It also serves to prevent the board from cupping.
Rocker
-
22nd June 2006, 07:00 PM #15
Rocker,
I have a rolltop desk C1930 built in Oz not unlike the one you are building, and a big thumbs up for your posts on the construction as you go. The pull out slides on ours have the bread board end on the sides. The actual pullouts are two pieces of timber about 10" wide and I have no idea if these are glued only, dowelled our how they are joined. The sides which run full length are probably bread board as there is visable movement on the end which does not seem to stress the joint that much. Does this alter your thinking any on the construction style? in any case the job seems to be done.
John
Similar Threads
-
Breadboard ends
By EMistral in forum WOODWORK - GENERALReplies: 12Last Post: 25th April 2006, 08:00 PM -
Q: Simple jig to help cut sliding dovetail breadboard ends?
By BrettC in forum WOODWORK - GENERALReplies: 14Last Post: 25th February 2006, 12:15 AM -
Breadboard Ends
By Baz in forum WOODWORK - GENERALReplies: 19Last Post: 2nd December 2005, 07:22 PM -
Mortice ends
By j.stevens in forum WOODWORK - GENERALReplies: 2Last Post: 24th September 2005, 07:48 PM -
Breadboard Ends on the Bench?
By bitingmidge in forum WOODWORK - GENERALReplies: 12Last Post: 7th February 2005, 08:37 AM