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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    60

    Default Bring old timber back to new looking

    hi everyone,

    I wasn't sure where to put this message so General Woodwork it is !

    I reclaimed a very old shed frame that I'd like to use for my new workbench or a dinning table.

    The timber is quite heavy duty : 600x30x10 approximately each of them.

    I guess a thickness planer/jointer would be the best option but I do not own any of these.

    Any Idea for an other solution ?

    thx jon

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    blue mountains
    Posts
    4,882

    Default

    If you dont have machines the easy option is an electric hand plane. They are quite cheap and good for cleaning up old timber. Blades are tungston and can be replaced. Dont be tempted to hog off great swathes but use a fine cut as they can soon destroy a job if misused. When cleaned up then a hand plane for the finishing. Getting flat and square will be up to you so normal stock prep methods apply.
    Regards
    John

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Hobart
    Posts
    5,105

    Default

    Good Morning Jon

    I Like using recycled timber. They were more selective then and 100 years of air drying is great!

    Always, I give all pre-loved timber a good, thorough, but light wash with the Karcher. Embedded grit and sand can do almost as much damage to blades as nails and screws.

    Next I search very cautiously for embedded nails, screws, bolts, gravel, sand, etc, and then remove it.

    Next I thickness it using light passes with sacrificial blades in the thicknesser. Do not be too aggressive.

    When I am certain that all nasties have been identified and removed, I change blades and do a light final planing on the thicknesser.

    As John recommends, a power planer is probably the most cost-effective was of doing this. But there is a definite learning curve - do not expect perfect results first time. It will be much cheaper to use sacrificial blades in the planer than to risk damaging good blades. Take things slowly - say maximum cut depth of 0.5 mm. Practice makes perfect. [Or acceptable in my case]




    Fair Winds

    Graeme

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Albury Well Just Outside
    Posts
    13,315

    Default

    My process is to clean the timber then check with a metal detector for any screws or nails.

    I do not have a handheld planner so I have to use my thicknesser/jointer on the next step. I have already put a nick in the thickness blades so I am on the look out for a cheap handheld electric planner. Meanwhile if really concern I can use a normal plane but really hate to nick the blade or damage the soul in one of these.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Hobart
    Posts
    5,105

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Christos View Post
    My process is to clean the timber then check with a metal detector for any screws or nails.

    I do not have a handheld planner so I have to use my thicknesser/jointer on the next step. I have already put a nick in the thickness blades so I am on the look out for a cheap handheld electric planner. Meanwhile if really concern I can use a normal plane but really hate to nick the blade or damage the soul in one of these.

    Good Morning Christos

    I also use a thicknesser, and was initially distressed every time I put a nick in the blades. Now I am a happy chappy with two sets of thicknesser blades:
    • The "multi-nicked" or sacrificial blades used for rough work, and
    • The good blades used for finish planing.

    The "multi-nicked blades are periodically hand sharpened, but I make no attempt to remove the nicks. These nicks leave little ridges on the thicknessed material, but the finish blades makes them vanish.

    Cheaper, more precise and more convenient than buying a handplaner.




    Fair Winds

    Graeme

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