Thread: Builder Boards

I'd be tempted to build these out of a naturally weather resistant lumber like cypress or cedar. Sand and then spray on a coat of polyurethane and you're done. Cedar would even be lighter than the plywood too. Use cedar fence pickets and half your work is done before you start.

Pre Schoolers do not have the coordination to fit and lock together tight fitting joints. You should allow for loose fitting and also consider that the boards may warp slightly.

TWR
Cedar fence palings is what the US author used for his initial set, but he moved to ply for durability reasons. He then used ply in a project with a High School to supply sets of builder boards to pre-schools throughot the relevant school district and supplied something like 80 sets.

Linden

I agree that there needs to be some "slop". You will see that the diagram I posted last night suggests that the slots be 13/16" for 3/4" boards (ie alows 1/16" slop). Do you think that there is a need for more (given that the slots are only less than 2" deep?

Many thanks for your continuing interest.

Cheers

Jeremy

Jeremy, I hope the centres director is enthusiastic as I think these will be a great asset.

These boards will really come into there own for the 4 - 5 yr olds.


What sort of numbers of each size do you feel will satify a centres needs?
I tried to guess but without watching a group of kids use them?????
Has the author made suggestions?

Cheers

JMK
"I agree that there needs to be some "slop". You will see that the diagram I posted last night suggests that the slots be 13/16" for 3/4" boards (ie alows 1/16" slop). Do you think that there is a need for more (given that the slots are only less than 2" deep?>

I would allow 3mm minimum!
Also the timber may not be all the same thickness unless you get them all "machined" together.

jmk89
If you use west system with 207 hardener as this is special pupose hardener that is UV stable you dont have to varnish it to protect so you can cut down on the work a bit and it has the same colouring as varnish when applied
Just apply it to the sheets of ply first then cut up and apply to all the edges after

How about drilling the ends of the slots right through, and then using the triton work centre to make the two cuts?
With a stop on a drill press, the holes will be very accurate, and I imagine you can use a stop on the Triton workcentre as well?

Only useful if the ends of the dado's don't have to be square.... although perhaps there would be less risk of fingers getting pinched if the ends of the slots were not square???

Originally Posted by Linden Hardy

JMK
"I agree that there needs to be some "slop". You will see that the diagram I posted last night suggests that the slots be 13/16" for 3/4" boards (ie alows 1/16" slop). Do you think that there is a need for more (given that the slots are only less than 2" deep?>

I would allow 3mm minimum!
Also the timber may not be all the same thickness unless you get them all "machined" together.

I agree that the timber may not all be the same thickness - my experience with ply is that it tends to be under rather than oversize. However, as always, I think that I will have to do a trial run to check that the slots are wide enough first."

Originally Posted by Clinton1

How about drilling the ends of the slots right through, and then using the triton work centre to make the two cuts?
With a stop on a drill press, the holes will be very accurate, and I imagine you can use a stop on the Triton workcentre as well?

Only useful if the ends of the dado's don't have to be square.... although perhaps there would be less risk of fingers getting pinched if the ends of the slots were not square???

Clinton

I was thinking the same, but after drilling the holes at the end of the slot, I will cut the shoulders with a stack of boards standing on their edge (rather than of a face), then I don't need a stop, I just set the height of the blade so that it cuts from the edge to the hole, and use a crosscut sled.

Cheers

Jeremy

Originally Posted by STEPHEN MILLER

jmk89
If you use west system with 207 hardener as this is special pupose hardener that is UV stable you dont have to varnish it to protect so you can cut down on the work a bit and it has the same colouring as varnish when applied
Just apply it to the sheets of ply first then cut up and apply to all the edges after

Stephen

Thanks for the heads up on 207 - have you used it or is this just based on advertising blurb? I note that Bote Cote also have a hardener which is meant to be non-yellowing and doesn't need a varnish to protect against UV.

As for application technique - you have accurately described what I had planned to do.

Cheers

Jeremy

Originally Posted by Bleedin Thumb

Jeremy, I hope the centres director is enthusiastic as I think these will be a great asset.

These boards will really come into there own for the 4 - 5 yr olds.


What sort of numbers of each size do you feel will satify a centres needs?
I tried to guess but without watching a group of kids use them?????
Has the author made suggestions?

Cheers

Bleedin Thumb

The author does give a suggestion for an appropriate kit (based in part on getting the most parts out of the fewest number of sheets of ply. I will let you know what he suggests when I get home from work.

Cheers

jeremy

The kit includes:

1. 28 x 4' pieces (10 notches)
2. 10 x 37 11/32" pieces (8 notches)
3. 13 x 27" pieces (6 notches)
4. 33 x 16 3/4" pieces (4 notches)
5. 51 x 6 1/4" pieces (2 notches)
6. various split pieces to sit on the ground
7. roof supports and gables
8. long and short roof boards

It is some time since I last posted to this forum but this is a question right up my alley so to say.
I have already completed a wine rack, but I am unable to show attachment at the moment or I would have posted a pic.
I may have posted the pic on a blog I tried, in fact a few blogs I submitted to some time ago.
http://www.woodshopphotos.com/main.p...542&g2_page=1&

http://tomodonnell.bigblog.com.au/

http://routermagic.blogspot.com/

http://templatetom.wordpress.com/200...-new-projects/

http://theonlineauthor.com/templatetom/
If I can find out the method of posting a pic here I will forward with a later posting. In the meantime I can assure you there is a simple way in producing the joint you require and it is done with safety. So Safe that I had a class of VIP. the year before last using the same jig. VIP Vision Impaired Person and in some instances totaly blind.

Sorry for the lack of picture as it would have answered your question.
Tom