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24th May 2018, 10:59 AM #61New Member
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I am in the process of doing this for the third time, different houses. This time I am using upmarket form ply. I made the base for the bench out of two layers of structural ply which I had covered in stainless steel. The drawer hardware is Haefele. It is an old house with wonky floors so I used adjustable plastic feet, and utilised the space for kick board drawers. All working well. But not quite complete.
I did have the luxury of an existing kitchen in another space so time was not a problem. My saw bench is a Triton, so anything is possible! Cost for carcasses, drawers, bench top, and all associated hardware is around $6000, so far. Cheers and good luck.
Chris
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24th May 2018 10:59 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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24th May 2018, 11:25 AM #62SENIOR MEMBER
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- Oct 2013
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- Altona North, Melbourne VIC
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- 223
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25th May 2018, 01:18 PM #63Senior Member
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- Sep 2011
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- Northern Beaches, Sydney
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Just be aware with some of those flat pack supliers that they use a relatively poor quality melamine board. It generally has a type of flat feel to the surface unlike the good quality board that is glossy. We've seen a few over the years and you can nearly see through the melamine to the substrate below. And it should always be HMR board ( but you already knew that didn't you ) !
We have used a local company to cut up panels, vanities and whole kitchens for us for years - Bills Boards at Chatswood ( no affiliation ). Great service.
If anyone wants the excel spreadsheet I use for kitchen cupboards send me a PM.
StewieLast edited by Stewie D; 25th May 2018 at 01:22 PM. Reason: typo
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25th May 2018, 02:35 PM #64GOLD MEMBER
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- bilpin
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It isn't the fact that its flat or glossy that sets the standard. Melamine is available in both finishes. The quality of the substrate and or the paper sets the standard. Course substrate causes "telegraphing" while thin paper can also show the underlying substrate.
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25th May 2018, 04:36 PM #65SENIOR MEMBER
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- Oct 2013
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- Altona North, Melbourne VIC
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25th May 2018, 04:58 PM #66
Hi Stewie
Not just flat pack suppliers. I have had staff at both Bunnings and M10 assure me:
- HMR melamine does not exist,
- HMR melamine is no longer made,
- HMR melamine is no better than ordinary melamine,
- HMR melamine is too expensive to stock, etc
16mm HMR melamine is more than adequate for kitchen cabinets. I used 18 mm HMR melamine because the extra thickness is more foregiving of errant screws and it only costs 10% more.
Cheers
Graeme
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25th May 2018, 06:45 PM #67GOLD MEMBER
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- Aug 2011
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- bilpin
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Well Graeme, they do say Tassie's 50 years behind the times and if that's the case, maybe they're right.
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25th May 2018, 09:37 PM #68
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26th May 2018, 07:38 AM #69
My suppliers advise me that although the term HMR is still thrown around in the market, it is no longer relevant. Board is now only available in either Standard or MR.
Craig
Expert /Ex-Spurt/ -n. An "Ex" is something that has been or was. A "Spurt" is a drip under pressure.
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26th May 2018, 07:07 PM #70GOLD MEMBER
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21st June 2018, 11:57 PM #71SENIOR MEMBER
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- Oct 2013
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- Altona North, Melbourne VIC
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Well, incase anyone is interested, I've managed to source the cabinets ( custom flatpack ) for under $6,000. The entire kitchen, including $10k of appliances and major renovation work ( new floor, levelling, new plaster and lighting + plumbing moved and new electrics ) is going to come in around $32 - $33k.
Am paying to have the countertops made as I simply don't have the space or time to do it, but could have save a bit if I DIY'd those. But glad to pay the money given we are able to do this for nearly half of what was quoted - including high end Miele appliances.
Thanks to all on this thread for the guidance & ideas. It all helped immensely. Will post some pics once it's done - but below is my Sketchup of the plan.
20180621_225030.jpg
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23rd June 2018, 12:51 PM #72
Hi
The new kitchen looks great *EXCEPT* for the floor. If the new floor is a step up as shown in the drawing, DON'T DO IT! This will be a major trip/safety hazard. Many times when moving food/utensils to/from the kitchen you cannot (easily) see the floor in front of you. I believe if you do this step up, you will regret it. When (if?) you ever sell your home, it may be something that MANY prospective home buyers will reject and potentially limit sales prospects.Kind Regards
Peter
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23rd June 2018, 06:21 PM #73SENIOR MEMBER
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- Altona North, Melbourne VIC
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I hear ya, but there is already a step there ( the house steps down into a large sunken open family area - where the tiles are shown ). The lower part isn't so much kitchen, as it will be a breakfast bar area. This is just how the house is ( even now ) and can't be changed without major major changes which would be pointless - like moving up doors and windows. I've thought about it, but there is no point.
5 years living here, and we haven't tripped yet, so I think we'll be fine!
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24th June 2018, 08:48 AM #74
We just moved into our new house, and I did the kitchen myself - birch plywood cabinets and drawer fronts, saligna benchtops, some purpleheart for accents. Tracksaw, router, biscuit jointer the main tools, and my trusty assembly table.
Using Blum drawer hardware and Hettich hinges the price tag worked out pretty much as you said ... 30-35k NZ$, including just over 10k for appliances.
Big point for me: no MDF used at all, no edge banding. This kitchen is going to look as good (if scratched and worn) in 15 years time: no hinges working loose and no edges coming off and swelling, no worries about a bit of water causing
mayhem.
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24th June 2018, 05:49 PM #75
ok, here are a few pics, Sebastian. IMG_2455.jpgIMG_2449.jpgIMG_2462.jpgIMG_2464.jpgIMG_2467.jpgIMG_2468.jpg
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