Thread: Building Windows

You are right, cost wise they're much cheaper to produce yourself. Time consuming, and you need to make sure you flash them properly, but cheaper.
I have only made single glazed fixed windows for a couple of clients, but they were simple enough.
So as far as I'm aware there is no great mystery about them... what's the worst that could happen?

Cheers
Gab

You are missing nothing Stu. The appropriate timber, mortice and tenor joints and good glue will be all you need.

Originally Posted by double.d

You are missing nothing Stu. The appropriate timber, mortice and tenor joints and good glue will be all you need.

Are mortise and tenor joints deeper than mortise and tenon joints?

I think it's worth having a crack at it. I have a small opening sash I want to replace, so that will be a good proof of concept.

I think that's a really good idea. You probably have to pay some attention to weatherproofing aspect as well as channels for draining away the water due to cracked putty. The other is the double glazing aspect air gap between the two panes don't do much. I recall that some system uses inert gas. I will see if I can find it on the web. Lastly I would highly recommend you seal the whole frame with epoxy. Including using it as a glue for your m&t joints. You would never need to replace your windows ever again.

The glass comes in sealed double glazed units. There are a whole lot of different options, such as various glass spacings, whether they are argon filled, low-e glass etc. My uPVC windows are 16mm gap, argon filled and work very well. But I reckon 14mm with air will be a sensible compromise and would still deliver significant benefits. Much more than 14mm starts to make the frames a bit bulky.

If air filled, double glazed will tend to get condensation forming. Inert gasses will give a slight improvement in thermal characteristics, but eliminates moisture from the mix so no mist or condensation internally.

There's a school of thought that says that the argon usually dissipates after a few years and you're left with air anyway

I suppose it depends on how well the units are sealed...

Originally Posted by NZStu

Are mortise and tenor joints deeper than mortise and tenon joints?

I think it's worth having a crack at it. I have a small opening sash I want to replace, so that will be a good proof of concept.

Better resonation with a tenor

I'm currently working as a wood machinist in a bespoke joinery that's doing quite a bit of resto work for heritage listed sites. Being heritage, it's extremely difficult to match profiles by machine and as often as not we do make the new components by hand!

Even the more complex windows/doors can be managed in a home workshop, given that you have the appropriate skills. Where a joinery makes it's money is in speed & volume of production; in the shop I can turn out 4 or 5 basic windows in a day (can do faster, but quality, quality, quality... ) however at home it takes me several days each. I don't believe anyone can tell which comes from where... however I've been known to delude myself occasionally.

Just make sure that you keep everything a good tight fit and use a good, durable timber for the sill. (we prefer Merbau, although Blue- or Spotty Gum work passably for stained frames.)

Oh... and DON'T forget to cut drip- & flashing lines into the underside of the sill at least! Else you WILL regret it further down the line. DAMHIKT.


PS: the sealed double-glazed panes work nicely for what they are. I would suggest that you get in contact with your glazier to find out what the commonly available sizes are and machine the inside dim's of your frame to suit. Custom sizes can be rather expensive. It may be different at your glazier, but better to sort that out before locking in your choices, y'know?