Thread: How good are Bunnings saw cuts on melamine?

The service Bunnings offers with their saw is "Breaking Down to fit the your vehicle". You cannot expect a power saw in this mode to be able to cut cleanly and very accurately!! When you get your pieces home is when the fenness comes into play and this is your contribution to your project.

A Kitchen Maufacturer/Joinery shop will have the appropriate saws to do a "perfect job".
Should you require your project cut by these companies take the time to nut out the size of ALL the components and just hand the list to the company. Why?? so you know exactly what you require and know where they go. It will save you money also because if you give a diagram only to the company you will be charged for their time to make a cutting list which may be not the way you want your components to assembled.

Just another note when using Melamine to cabinets.....If all you have is a single saw to cut it cut the pieces 10mm over size then set up a fence clamped to the Melamine and run a 13mm straight flute router down the cut. The result will be square straight and crisp (no chipping). It will be slow but you will know the quality of each piece will be good.

Another tip is to buy Melamine Shelving. Bunnies have it as well as Laminex. It comes in 295mm, 5445mm, 595mm and either 1800 or 3600 long ( at this length a delivery by the supplier would be warrented) . It will have a white edge down one long side. Using these sizes in conjunction with your with your design the end result would be satisfying.

Buy some saws and tools. Do it all yourself. Don't use melamine at all if you want good results.

I think people need to learn that it's not as easy as it looks on tv. I'm all for people learning things the hard way. Hell there was even a time we didn't have forums or YouTube and we still got things done. Problem today is people don't want to put the time and money into the learning process and expect instant success and skills overnight. They think doing it themselves will save them money. It might eventually, but you need to put in the time developing skills and use of tools first. If it's not your passion then don't bother. Pay someone else instead.

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Originally Posted by chambezio

A Kitchen Maufacturer/Joinery shop will have the appropriate saws to do a "perfect job".

Except that often that's not what they do. When they aren't assembling it themselves, as oft as not an apprentice is given the cutting list to keep them occupied while the shop's 'real work' is done. DAMHIKT.

Just another note when using Melamine to cabinets.....If all you have is a single saw to cut it cut the pieces 10mm over size then set up a fence clamped to the Melamine and run a 13mm straight flute router down the cut. The result will be square straight and crisp (no chipping). It will be slow but you will know the quality of each piece will be good.

Also, if going this way, buy a spare fluting bit or two. The surface laminates tend to wear the bit faster, resulting in 'chips' in the cutting edges. If you adjust the cutting depth of the router between sheets to spread the wear over the bit it'll last longer, but having a spare reduces the chance of needing to no run down to Bunnies in the middle of the job.

Originally Posted by Rubyrose

Are Bunnings cuts good and square?

I work at Bunnings. I wouldn't trust getting anything cut on the wall saw. The tolerance is 5mm and the blades will chip the melamine. You're unlikely to get a straight cut.

Honestly, you're better of seeing if a local cabinet maker or shopfitter can cut what you need on either a small panel saw with a scoring blade, or a larger automated panel saw.



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Bunnings for accurately cutting Melamine? NEVER !!

i only use them for breaking down larger sheets to fit in my car and fit on my table saw, but always make sure there is a factory straight edge to work with on the table saw, preferably a factory right angled corner

Originally Posted by nathan.e

Honestly, you're better of seeing if a local cabinet maker or shopfitter can cut what you need on either a small panel saw with a scoring blade, or a larger automated panel saw.
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Yes, I agree, but if you want to do it all yourself this is what I would do.

Firstly, I've never used a saw of any sort on Melamine (not since I was a teenager) maybe to just roughly cut to size but never for the final edge. So forget about saws for the time being in my opinion!

I've had great results cutting straight edges, holes and curves on Melamine, MDF, Laminex, Ply, (pretty much any man made board) by using a router.

For straight cuts use one of these, PROGRIP or other brands, or rig up something similar using clamps and a wider sheet of something with a straight edge. (wider so the clamps aren't in the way)

progrip2.jpgprogrip.jpg

Even better and cheaper if you make something like this, it will make setting up easier so you can cut exactly to the line and line up the cut accurately when clamping it down to the sheet. (Make one after you have your router and bit diameter sorted and have done a few test cuts first on scrap.) People mainly use these with circular saws but they are also great for cutting with a router.

Straight cut guide.jpg

You only need to ensure the top fence is dead straight, make the thinner bottom piece over size (width) cut this edge to final size with the router the first time you use it. All future cuts will be exactly on this outer edge bit so that is where you can easily line up the edge to your pencil line. It's kind of like a shooting board.

• Make plenty of test cuts to ensure you know what you are doing and can use a router.
• Learn about safely doing a climbing cut, how this works with chip-out (if any)
• Learn which side will be your waste side of cut and which will be your good (chip free side)

• Learn about the best diameter bit for the sheet you're cutting and how deep you can cut in one pass.
• You should use a diameter bit that is thicker than the sheet you are cutting but you can achieve good results if you do in multiple passes to cut down to final depth. Quicker to just buy the right bit in the first place, it will be new, sharp, and ready to use on the jig in future because the jig is made for that bit and router only. Go for a spiral downcut if you can afford it but a cheap single slot will still work (even if only on the climbing cut side)
• You could even look at using a router bit with a top bearing, even if not used on your straight edge it will be handy for following curves or templates in future and you won't have to bother changing bits half way through a job.
• Make plenty of test cuts to ensure you know what your doing and can use a router.
• Did I mention making some test cuts first?
• Use Carbitool bits. I've messed with so many others and still find Carbitool to be the best, plus you are supporting a local family owned business who know what they are doing and have been making quality bits for many years now.

• Don't support the cheap imported bits, you will only be disappointed and I'm passionate about supporting local, if they don't get supported you know what will happen! Look at Holden/Ford. We need good Australian Made router bits to stick around, support the companies that look after you and are Australian, even if you can't understand why you have to pay a bit more just do it. Everyone needs to look at more than the total cost of an item when making a buying decision, I've been passionate about this for many years now and I would hate to see yet another Aussie manufacturer disappear forever. The Carbitool bit with the replaceable carbide and top bearing is by far the best bit I've ever used, I came across them first when in the door making business. Will never use anything else now. Ok end of rant, sorry, hope this helps!

I'm another who's firmly in the camp of "either buy flat pack or engage a cabinet maker".

I have made many kitchen cabinets using just a Triton Workcentre, but that involved getting Bunnings to rough cut the sheets to a convenient size for the car; cutting to size +2mm on the Triton with an 80 tooth blade and then finishing off with the Triton planer attachment to get the good unchipped edges ready for edge banding. Very time consuming. I will still do it now but only for unique jobs one-off jobs.

I built my kitchen last year entirely from Bunnings Kaboodle flatpack units and right now IanW is doing a WIP on his kitchen; two pieces of advice I would give with this are to invest in a couple of really good quality corner clamps and to glue the cabinets as well as screwing them together.

Hi Rubyrose,

I do not want to sound like I am being rude to you but you sound like you are a true novice and you would be better served at a minimum by using a flat packer or buying modular stuff from Ikea. Stay away from Bunnings cutting service the cuts I had done just so I could fit some melamine in my vehicle were rough and not truly square and not at the dimension I specified. Most plywood places offer a reliable cutting service for cabinet makers etc.

A simple accurate good quality chop saw like a hitachi C10FCE2 would do everything as far as decking and trim is concerned for around the $400 mark. If you really do need the bigger cross cut and capacity of the sliding compound saw the price for a good quality saw(meaning one that is accurate and fit for purpose) will jump to around $900 for a Hitachi C12RSH. I am just using the hitachi saws as examples of good saws, any of the big name saws would be good but stay away from the lighter weight versions of makita or the DIY saws.

As far as kitchens go my only real advise is DON"T. If you really want to do it yourself hire a laser and tripod for the install or better still hire a carpenter for a few days, they come fully equipped. It would be cheaper in the end.

I don't believe you or anyone who has not gone through a reno can fully comprehend what is involved in a kitchen reno or the huge number of trades involved each with their own specialised tools. They included carpenters,cabinetmakers, plumbers, electricians, plasters, painters, stone masons, tilers, brick layers, glaziers, security screen people and the installers for some of those trades then finally the guy to do the glass splashback. I've just had a kitchen done where a wall had to be removed to make space for a breakfast bar and basically putting an updated but similar layout kitchen back in place with good quality modern hardware. Excluding appliances that cost around $60K. If it sounds like I am trying to scare you it is because I am, you need to realise the size of this undertaking.

As well as this forum you can find some good advise and techniques on youtube but you need to be careful not to accept everything that is posted some is great info some is absolute rubbish.

All the best to you.

Bunning's is good for BBQ fuel, Deck chairs and indoor outdoor plants, if you want anything else, go everywhere else. ah, that feels better getting that off my chest. funny how I keep going back though, kind of like when we take the kids to dinner, "tonight's going to be different, the kids will behave this time" ...... nope, still the same......

Here it's my turn to sound rude, but to Labrat

i don't think a kitchen is out of the capabilities of a good, thoughtful, organised and adequately equipped DIY-er.

It you go in guns blazing, you are going to get burnt. If you watch a lot of videos, practice your cuts, practice your drilling and practice using a long level, you'll be fine. (I've seen a lot of people do their first of "something" on the final workpiece. Avoid this.)

You also need a good trailer, a good flat trellis for carrying things on it, a neat way of securing things and time to go collect things as you need them. Perhaps hire a local storage facility if room is limited at home (?). I'd also advise you consider talking to plumbers and electricians early on as they can be tricky to coordinate and get uncooperative fast if you stuff them around.

id agree completely with getting all the casings and doors done for you by a kitchen company and delivered flat packed. This is an established fact: they can deliver a finished product for cheaper than you can buy the materials. They also have better materials and better options. Bunnings is a embarrassing cultural sin and I feel sick when I go to some people's houses (literally the houses Kmart and Bunnings built).

For some clients work I have a local company bulk cut the parts of MDF using their whizz bang cyborg. For this it's more expensive, but cutting 5000 widgets isn't my idea of fun. Watching that machine go, is

Tools can be a bit of a bugger too. Some buy Festool, use them and sell them for 90% once the job is done. This seems quite wise.

i think what Labrat is really saying is that the DIY shows have cost a lot of people a lot of money and a lot of grief. We have a culture where we think tradies are just skilled handymen and this simply isn't true. They are hardly Japanese Shokonin, but the good ones are fast, efficient, neat, no fuss and well recommended. But, correspondingly, I've met a horrifying number of absolute shockers whose work is criminally bad.... Far far too many.

As background, I've built two houses, renovated two more completely and updated one two beddie unit.

Mister Ply & Wood at Underwood or Flexcorp at Kingston would be the best people to see.

Im a Cabinetmaker by trade, so have spent a fair bit of time with melamine sheets, and as others have pointed out.

It is just as cheap, if not cheaper to get a flat pack company to supply and cut a flat pack kitchen than buy the material separately, pay delivery fee and cut to size yourself and as a bonus, you don't have to edge the melamine yourself.

They buy 3600mmx1800mm sheets and CNC them to size, edge it, add screw holes, drill the hinges, adjustable shelfs holes and drawer runner holes for you.

Even the hardware is normally cheaper and better quality than Bunnings.

I just had some custom made workshop cabinets made up, and it was cheaper than getting a bunning's cabinets flat pack.

it wasn't imported, it was made from Australian material and cut in an aussie factory with australian based workers.


I used Aussie Cuts at Brendale, I'm not sure how much they charge for delivery to up the mountain.

But its something worth looking at than cutting your own, as its vital that the components of the cabinets are cut square.

There is a few tricks to installing a kitchen, but i think a DIYer could do a good job. its not rocket science, just a little math.