Thread: a few burl questions

In my opinion (none too experienced) I wouldn't bother trying to stabilize for pen blanks. Knife scales I would however (waterproofing). I believe stickfast have a stabilizing product as well. Look up Tony at perfect pens and pencils. He did stock it at one point.

They're certainly a good size slab so whatever you end up doing with them, have fun! (And post photos!!)

The second timber, is a eucalypt, but could be any of a number of species I'm afraid.

Stabilising is removing the air fro the microscopic voids and replacing them with a water thin resin that is set by cooking it. It does not make them waterproof, only more water resistant, but make them resistant to moisture movements if done properly. Cactus Juice is my choice, Stick Fast being another very similar product, both hard to get in Aus. Timberbits sells CJ, Tony at Perfect Pens near Bris used to sell Stick Fast but I'm not sure he still does.

Stabilising is an expensive and time consuming process. The timber must be dried first to 0%MC in an oven not just air dry; then under vacuum the air is removed often taking days; then the timber remains in the resin soaking for 2-4 times (I use 4 for eucalypts) the vacuum times; the left to drain before baking to set the resin taking 3-4 hours for decent chunks. For pen blank stabilising eucalypts is almost a waste of time, but it is advantageous for knife scales, as it minimises movements due to moisture content changes and makes them more water resistant.

Casting is the process for filling the main cracks and voids and can be coloured with numerous pigments, swirling micas or translucent or even glow in the dark colours. This is best done with Casting Epoxies (in Aus) IMHO under pressure (using a pressure chamber like a paint pot) to avoid bubbles. Pressure isn't a prerequisite but it helps.

I would be cutting into 30mm thick slabs by 150mm long for stabilising (if necessary) and casting. After casting they can be cut and sanded to the desirable size.

I do both stabilising and casting but I'm heading to WA this week and won't be back until after Xmas and will be out of range for a lot of the time. I'm happy to help you out after Xmas or give you guidance if you want to give it a try yourself. If you are in a hurry you could try Dinki Di on these forums or PM me and I can pass on his details.

Good luck with it.

BTW there is a Casting and Stabilisation sub-forum under the pen forums.

Thanks Dai,

That is some very helpful information.

Thanks for the clue on the Eucalypt. Species is probably not that important anyway...... Pretty is Pretty!

I am interested in having a go myself, though i am not in a hurry.
It seems getting a hold of the resin is the most difficult part.

All other parts of the process i think i can work around.

I have been in touch with Tony at Perfect Pens and you are correct. he no longer stocks any.

Might need to have open a beer and have a think!

Cheers

I was just watching mat Cremona doing this on his you tube channel (stabilising). He also used cactus juice and I had the same question about what to use in Australia. I’m in Perth so pretty far from the rest of the action. Any thoughts for something in my neck of the woods as shipping here can be very costly? Also any recommendations for casting resins?

Thanks.


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Originally Posted by noahm

I was just watching mat Cremona doing this on his you tube channel (stabilising). He also used cactus juice and I had the same question about what to use in Australia. I’m in Perth so pretty far from the rest of the action. Any thoughts for something in my neck of the woods as shipping here can be very costly? Also any recommendations for casting resins?

Thanks.


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In WA I'd get my Cactus Juice directly from Curtis in the USA, it will be cheaper.

As to resins I use Megapoxy HX available from Permatech in Wangara but only available in 5/20 litres at a time. Otherwise try searching for Clear Casting Resin in your state