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Thread: Should I buy a planer?
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22nd June 2008, 12:24 PM #1Senior Member
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Should I buy a planer?
I知 soon going to need to machine my own timber into 20mm by 7mm beads. This is how I was told to do it.
- Use an overhand planer to get 4 flat edges on the wood.
- Use the bandsaw to cut 8mm off each side of the piece of wood.
- Replane both edges that have just been cut by the bandsaw and repeat No. 2
- Put the 8mm beads with 3 planed sides into a thicknesser, reducing them to 7mm and getting rid of the bandsaw cuts.
- Use thicknesser to get 2 flat edges
- Use bandsaw to cut 8.5mm off each side
- Put the 8.5mm beads through the thicknesser to reduce them to 7mm (as they will have 2 bandsaw edged faces)
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22nd June 2008 12:24 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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22nd June 2008, 02:00 PM #2
Sounds like a good excuse to get a drum sander to me
Ashore
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22nd June 2008, 05:58 PM #3
why not try your method on one or two pieces first, see if it works, before you outlay for the new machinery. If it doesn't work, not much lost.
TM
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22nd June 2008, 06:39 PM #4
You dont need an over head planer(although I suspect whoever you were talking to might have called a thicknesser an overhead planer). Your method will suffice.
Only thing I would do is to thickness your timber to 20mm thick and then cut 9mm-10mm strips using a table saw and then dress the sawn edges down to 7mm.
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22nd June 2008, 07:13 PM #5
are we talking squaring sound timber as in logs.
if so
1. you can make a v block to sit it in to and srecure it from twistin with a screw in one end. and run it threw the thinnesser (overhead planer).
2. you can make a v block of ripping jig for use on the bandsaw and cut it with that.
3. you can make a flat side with a hand plane electric or otherwise and then sit this on the the bandsaw table to resaw.
www.carlweiss.com.au
Mobile Sawmilling & Logging Service
8" & 10" Lucas Mills, bobcat, 4wd tractor, 12 ton dozer, stihl saws.
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22nd June 2008, 07:17 PM #6Jim
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22nd June 2008, 09:26 PM #7Senior Member
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When he said an overhand planer I think he mean something like this. Also most of the wood come from offcuts from other woodworkers, so they usually start of with atleast 2 sides ready planed. I was just worried that if I don't plane after bandsawing it will result it unstraight cuts.
[IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/Charles/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot.jpg[/IMG]
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22nd June 2008, 09:51 PM #8
Ah a joiner, I had a feeling thats what you were talking about.Joiners are typically used to put a square edge on a piece of timber without any square edges, or an edge that can't go through a thicknesser. I think you can get away with using what you have in your current setup, especially in a shed thats not quite 10'x6'. Your basically trying to rip straight pieces on a saw designed to do curves, so its never going to be perfect. I would thickness up a 20mm block then using a 1/2" blade on the bandsaw cut off your thin strips quite oversize, maybe 9mm and thickness them down to size.
Joiners aren't anymore dangerous than other tools and used correctly they are very useful, have you got a tablesaw by any chance?Jack of all trades, Professional of none.
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22nd June 2008, 10:28 PM #9Senior Member
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22nd June 2008, 11:42 PM #10
Actually you'd be surprised how much material you'll lose once you cut all the bits oversize and then thickness them down...an average table saw blade has a kerf of 3mm...so giving yourself 1.5mm either side to thickness is going to have the same result.
Maybe you could find a friendly cabinetmaker to rip all the pieces up for you, maybe in exchange for a bottle of Draught and 5 matesJack of all trades, Professional of none.
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23rd June 2008, 09:14 AM #11
Ahh a planer, also known as a jointer and a buzzer. You only need one if you need to straighten and square up timber. but I wouldnt use it on such thin timber, especially 7mm.
If using your bandsaw, set it the fence to allow for drift. That way you will have more evenly cut strips.
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23rd June 2008, 05:40 PM #12
If the original stock that you get is 20mm or thicker, then I would run it through the thicknesser to get it to 20mm thick. After that, using a 3/8" or even 1/2 blade with 6tpi or higher, run it through the bandsaw slicing off 8mm or 8.5mm thick strips. If you have trouble with drift: adjust your fence to be parallel with the blade, temporarily tension the blade a wee bit higher, make the guides hug the blade a bit more and it shouldn't go anywhere, especially at 20mm. Don't forget to let the tension back to normal for other cuts though or you will reduce it's life a bit.
After that, a few very light passes through the thickenesser will remove any bandsaw marks, which are pretty small at 6tpi, and viola.
My 2c.
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23rd June 2008, 10:10 PM #13Senior Member
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Thanks, unfortunately my saw doesn't have a guide, so I'm going to have to make one
See here
Also will 14" bs with a 6tpi blade 2850rpm 2hp (1500w) be man enough?
Thanks
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23rd June 2008, 11:00 PM #14
If youre talking about slicing the boards that are 20mm thick (meaning the depth of the cut you make is 20mm) then it would do it with ease, bring the blade guides as close to the wood as you can, say 5mm away from the piece just to be nice clamp a sturdy piece of timber to the table as a fence, and viola. I doubt there would be much drift in cutting a 20mm board anyhow.
Good luck.
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