Thread: know where to buy a good straightedge ?

The straightedges are only designed to give a straight edge in 2 dimensions, not 3.
You are going to end up with a massive edge if you get one machined out of bar, stress relieved and re machined. I would not guarantee the straightness of any bar stock

Originally Posted by ClintO

The straightedges are only designed to give a straight edge in 2 dimensions, not 3.
You are going to end up with a massive edge if you get one machined out of bar, stress relieved and re machined. I would not guarantee the straightness of any bar stock

3 dimention accuracy be ideal I think because there's no concern for keeping it square.

Do you think If I bought one from a engineering supplier it wouldn't be particularily better than the carpatec ones ?

In my opinion, an engineering straightedge is overkill and a waste of money. You are dealing with wood, so thinking in thousands of inches is pointless as the wood is going to shift everytime the weather changes. My 2c worth anyway.

I've got the Veritas Aluminium 38" straight edge. It has very little flex in it. Enormously useful tool.

spose. just that for me springing the joint just right is very important....and uno how you can pick up a great deal against the light eying off that little gap...... just I've noticed with straight edges I've used in the past, using a corner edge you can easily open and close that gap easily just with hand pressure. kinda don't want that inconsistancy.

anyway , if anyone nose a source for thick bevel edged straightedges I'd appreciate it.

thanks
Jake

Jake these are pretty stout. But can't you just judge a gap off its partner's edge if you want to do a sprung joint?

I've got this one http://www.woodpeck.com/media/RS_WWR_SERX_WEB.pdf

on page 2, the 48" beast. Used it recently to get the wings of the c/saw just right. But like yourself, I wanted something solid to check for big glue-ups when making big things.

Workbenches may be of help

I've only used the steel version, but the Veritas straight edges are plenty rigid when used as intended (on edge). Personally, I don't bother checking spring joints with a straight edge, I just put the two boards together and look for the right amount of light, then I double check the joint by laying the boards together and 'pinching' the ends of the panel glue up. If the boards spring apart at either end when the opposite end is pinched then you've got a convex join or snipe.

Originally Posted by mic-d

But can't you just judge a gap off its partner's edge if you want to do a sprung joint?

I know what you mean, but what I feel (or hope) to nail.......is knowing how many passes exactly it should take with the fenced plane setup I've got.....can check every pass with the straight edge. sounding anal I spose........just need something I knows always straight as reference all the time with me.

thanks for all the help. I should have got a proper one a long time ago.

Originally Posted by apricotripper

I know what you mean, but what I feel (or hope) to nail.......is knowing how many passes exactly it should take with the fenced plane setup I've got.....can check every pass with the straight edge. sounding anal I spose........just need something I knows always straight as reference all the time with me.

thanks for all the help. I should have got a proper one a long time ago.

I think I understand. You mean how many passes from a straight condition to get the degree of concave you want?

Originally Posted by mic-d

I think I understand. You mean how many passes from a straight condition to get the degree of concave you want?

yep. its mainly for seat blanks bout 40-50mm thick. . using an old #8 I cleaned up with a wooden fence clamped on ....at present its about 2 short passes (starting/ending bout 50mm each end then bout 150mm each end) to hollow it, then one full complete pass....get good joints that way, but don't know entirely why half the time because my straightedge is often just the edge of the plane or a floppy ruler etc.

sometimes goes astray and when it does I can't check each individual piece properly. ...work it out eventually, but be faster with a straight edge I new was straight.

i personally refuse to spend more on a straight edge than i would on a slab

What about these ones - Edge, Straight, Bevel one side, mm graduated - The Wood Works Book & Tool Co.=

I dont have one of these so cant recomend it from experience. But it looks like it would be OK, stainless steel as well.

Mine is a 4' Starrett, its a very good straight edge, but it doesnt have a bevel edge and is about 10mm thick