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  1. #1
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    Default How well will CA prevent small screws from working loose in a scissor action piece?

    I'm making an umbrella swift from Rose Mahogany (& Brass) for SWMBO, along similar construction lines to this one:

    Umbrella_Swift.jpg

    The individual pieces for my 'arms' are around 300x20x5mm in size and I'm trying to decide on a suitable method to hinge them together. I'd like to use brass cutler's rivets but am having difficulty in sourcing them at the correct size.

    I do have some small brass screws, around 9mm long, that'll do the trick however I'm concerned that the scissor action of opening/closing the swift will see them working loose over time.

    So, I'm wondering... could I prevent this if, after pre-drilling the holes, I drop a bead of CA into each hole the screws will thread into during assembly? (Rotating/manipulating the two pieces while it dries so only the tip of the screw is glued, of course!)

    Or is this likely to be just a temporary fix? Should I persevere with hunting down rivets? Can anyone think of other alternatives that should work?
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

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  3. #2
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    How about just using brass rod from the K&S rack at a hobby shop as a full rivet? Just peen both ends into a countersink in the timber arms with a brass washer between the arms.


    Screwing up in new ways every day
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    Jeremy
    If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly

  4. #3
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    If you go down the screw in wood avenue, my Loctite Chart suggests "Super glue gel control". It can be used to fasten metal to wood so it should lock your screw in the wood.

  5. #4
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    While I really like the idea of using brass rod that way, it's not something I've ever tried before on this small a scale and by my calculations there'll be 42 of these pivot points...

    ...which in my shed means 42 possible 'implementation failures'

    The Rose Mahogany I'm using is gleaned out of off-cuts from another project and I don't really have the option to source more in a hurry if I screw up trying to remove a failed attempt.

    Perhaps I should spend a day or two practising on some pine trellis first?
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  6. #5
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    Default How well will CA prevent small screws from working loose in a scissor action piece?

    I understand your reluctance, but give it a go on some scrap to develop your technique first. Trellis sounds exactly the right stuff for POC (proof of concept).
    I find riveting easier than using screws because they don't rely on glue and they don't force the wood fibres apart (which can lead to splitting - DAMHIK). But to each his own.


    Screwing up in new ways every day
    Cheers

    Jeremy
    If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly

  7. #6
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    How about using a short length of brass tube as the pivot pin and glue brass or copper rivets into each end of the tube to stop the wood from slipping off. You could also add washers, one behind each rivet head and a third one between the two pieces of timber. Brass tube is available from most model shops and rivets come up on flea-bay quite often.

  8. #7
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    I think screws and relying on glue will come back to annoy you one day.
    Ive had a look at some originals, a rivet like they have in them could be done using a brass pin , which has a head , you could drill a hole in a block of steel , if you have a drill press, drop the pins in one at a time and peen out the head wider and flatter if you like .
    For the other side you will need a washer with a hole the same size as the pin shaft .
    This can be done with a brass sheet and a punch and a block of steel with a matching hole. punch the washers through the hole with the punch, you'd probably only need .5mm sheet brass , posted from George white in Clayton Vic . The tricky bit would be drilling the hole in the middle, One at a time on a drill press is all I can think of . A metal expert like a jeweler would be the guy to ask on the punching and drilling .
    Nice little project BTW
    Rob
    Attached Images Attached Images

  9. #8
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    So... the consensus is to persevere with looking for some form of rivet/double-sided fastener then?

    We all seem to agree that screw'n'glue has inherent problems.
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by woodPixel View Post
    What about some little bolts like these that lock at a distance.... maybe with a washer?

    Attachment 388420

    Binding screws, buy 100 for $15 in a dozen different widths and lengths. 100pcs/lot M5*10 Copper plating Photo album screw Books butt screw Account books screw book binding screw-in Screws from Home Improvement on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group

    Attachment 388431
    I used those on a Fibonacci Gauge (proportional divider-like tool) and also on a Figure-8 caliper. Materials similar to the OP arms. With proper length, they cinch tight but still permit rotation.

    Cheers,
    Joe
    Of course truth is stranger than fiction.
    Fiction has to make sense. - Mark Twain

  11. #10
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    Those were the droids I was looking for.
    https://autoblastgates.com.au

  12. #11
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    I've used those brass binding screws (Chicago screws) successfully. I put a bit of Loctite on the thread once they are all correctly positioned.
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  13. #12
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    A fine example of 'Ask and you shall receive.'

    The cutlers rivets were exactly what I was looking for, but with the price on those chicago screws... I have to give them a go.

    Thanks fellas, you've made my day!
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  14. #13
    rrich Guest

    Default

    Two thoughts here.
    1 ~ TiteBond-III on the threads of a wood screw. I've had Kreg screws snap when trying to remove them after the TB-III cured.
    2 ~ A machine screw, 3 washers and a nut. Secure the nut with Loctite Red. Use a Dremel with a cutting wheel to trim the screw flush with the machine screw.

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