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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2005
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    Default Carbatec Vacuum Bag Veneering

    Hi all,

    I'm looking at the vacuum bag system Carbatec sell and wondering if it's any good? Currently I make a veneer "sandwich" between 18mm mdf and lots of clamps.

    Cheers
    Redgy

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
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    Dandenong, Vic
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    Default

    go get some of those vacuum bags from the $2 junk shops.
    Worth the 2-4 bucks to try it first.
    They have different sizes for pillows and jumbo sizes etc.

    I've used them for veneering as well as mounting canvas art to backing boards.

    They are not as thick plastic as the proper one but for 2 bucks I can buy a new one.

    You will still need to have a board on top and below because the thinner plastic wants to crease and the board on top fixes that.
    You vacuum out the air in seconds and then close the vent.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
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    Townsville, Tropical North Qld.
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    I've got one of these Redgy and I wouldn't go back to clamps for quids.
    Very easy to use and great results. I'm very happy with mine.
    Cheers, Ian
    "The common law of business balance prohibits paying a little and getting a lot.. it can't be done.
    If you deal with the lowest bidder it is well to add something for the risk you run.
    And if you do that, you will have enough to pay for something better"

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
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    Perth
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    Default

    I've had a good run out of mine. I've been using it to veneer 3mm sheoak onto plywood for drawer fronts.

    The one tip I have is to keep an eye on the vacuum for 15mins after you've first pulled it. A lot of air comes out of the wood initially so it can seem like a decent seal and you come back 15 mins later to find it loose and the glue going off.

  6. #5
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    Cheers guys, sounds like a good thing and I have ordered one

    Redgy

  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by dalejw View Post
    I've had a good run out of mine. I've been using it to veneer 3mm sheoak onto plywood for drawer fronts.

    The one tip I have is to keep an eye on the vacuum for 15mins after you've first pulled it. A lot of air comes out of the wood initially so it can seem like a decent seal and you come back 15 mins later to find it loose and the glue going off.
    Is it possible you lost vacuum because the base wasn't solid (ply has voids between layers)?
    Something I will keep in mind in the future. I have only used MDF as a base so far.
    Cheers, Ian
    "The common law of business balance prohibits paying a little and getting a lot.. it can't be done.
    If you deal with the lowest bidder it is well to add something for the risk you run.
    And if you do that, you will have enough to pay for something better"

  8. #7
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    Brisbane (Chermside)
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    Redgy,

    I love my vacuum presses to death. They are cheap, fast, and they work.

    If you ever need a bigger press they are very simple to make, as noted in the following link. https://www.woodworkforums.com/showth...t=vacuum+press

    Have fun!

    John

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
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    Perth
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nanigai View Post
    Is it possible you lost vacuum because the base wasn't solid (ply has voids between layers)?
    Something I will keep in mind in the future. I have only used MDF as a base so far.
    Cheers, Ian
    I think you're on the money there Ian, MDF is a much more suitable substrate but the plywood does look pretty funky.



    I've been meaning to thank you John Samuel, that thread about the big press gave me some great ideas about how to attack the big cabinets in this kitchen. Clamps and cauls are dead to me. It's amazing how much force you can generate. The above test drawer front I found out about the air bleed problem with. Came back 20mins after pulling the vacuum and it was a mess. The 3mm Sheoak pieces had cupped to the point I couldn't bend them back with my thumbs. I was about to throw the whole lot in the bin and decided to chuck some fresh glue on and pull the vacuum again. Bugger me if the whole lot didn't flatten out again and the result is the photo above.

    We'll see how in love with it I am after 12m * 800mm worth of kitchen though

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by dalejw View Post
    I think you're on the money there Ian, MDF is a much more suitable substrate but the plywood does look pretty funky.

    snip ...

    I've been meaning to thank you John Samuel, that thread about the big press gave me some great ideas about how to attack the big cabinets in this kitchen. Clamps and cauls are dead to me. It's amazing how much force you can generate. The above test drawer front I found out about the air bleed problem with. Came back 20mins after pulling the vacuum and it was a mess. The 3mm Sheoak pieces had cupped to the point I couldn't bend them back with my thumbs. I was about to throw the whole lot in the bin and decided to chuck some fresh glue on and pull the vacuum again. Bugger me if the whole lot didn't flatten out again and the result is the photo above.

    We'll see how in love with it I am after 12m * 800mm worth of kitchen though
    That she oak looks gorgeous!

    Your experience with air bleeding out of the substrate is something some of the literature warns about, but because I have been using MDF it has not bothered me so far.

    I am using Titebond PU glue for veneering and am very happy with it. It has an open time of 20-30 minutes and a clamp time of 45 minutes. The longer open time gives you time to get several pieces glued up and into the press at once (recently veneered 10 drawer fronts in one pressing in the big bag). The 45 minute clamp time means you can load up the press, prepare the next lot and have them in the press at short order.

    By my reckoning you will love it more after 12 M of kitchen than you would love cauls and clamps ... which makes me wince just to think of it.

    One more thing. If you are going to have leaks anywhere, they are most likely to occur at the corners. This happened to me once. To defeat this on my shop made big bag I siliconed the permanent seals closed, leaving only the mouth relying on the tape. The corners of the mouth are pinched shut with two small spring loaded hand clamps. Since using them my big bag has held vacuum every time.

    Cheerio!

    John

  11. #10
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    Dec 2004
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    Perth
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Samuel View Post



    By my reckoning you will love it more after 12 M of kitchen than you would love cauls and clamps ... which makes me wince just to think of it.
    The thought of that makes me feel sick. I imagine a shed full of 2*4 and clamp sized holes in all the walls if I attempted it that way.

    I'm using Titebond III for veneering the the moment. It's been good so far.

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Canberra, Australia
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    20

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nanigai View Post
    I've got one of these Redgy and I wouldn't go back to clamps for quids.
    Very easy to use and great results. I'm very happy with mine.
    Cheers, Ian
    Hi Ian,
    I assume you mean the Roarockit Thin Air kit. Is this correct?
    Bevin

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