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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by ian View Post
    chainsaw and mill requires several hundred dollars of PPE. .
    Minimum PPE would be muffs and a face shield or safety glasses. which are useful/desirable for subsequent WW and would be needed for a planer anyway.
    Even though I wear them while milling, chaps are not essential as the bar is well and truly trapped in the kerf.
    While its an awful lot of phaffing about, if a saw and mill were purchased second hand for a good price it is usually possible to sell them for at least what you paid for them.
    Despite all the above I would not advise anyone that does not have some familiarity with chainsaw to go this route.
    That cut also looks like it's not going to be possible with a <70cc saw anyway which further adds to the headaches.

    If some had a piece of log like that and needed that cut and would be prepared to bring it to the yard where I mill I would charge them ~$60 for a 1m cut. One proviso being if I hit a rock or a nail I would charge them for a new chain

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  3. #17
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    I wonder if we've scared the OP off it by now...
    I sure hope so, because any woodworker who's so green (pun intended) that they don't know what cupping is probably shouldn't even be thinking about slicing up tree trunks.

    No offence meant Yeet, but I really think you should be starting off with dried and dressed (read: stable) timber from your local hardware store before you look at messing around with stuff like this.

  4. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    Minimum PPE would be muffs and a face shield or safety glasses. which are useful/desirable for subsequent WW and would be needed for a planer anyway.
    Even though I wear them while milling, chaps are not essential as the bar is well and truly trapped in the kerf.
    While its an awful lot of phaffing about, if a saw and mill were purchased second hand for a good price it is usually possible to sell them for at least what you paid for them.
    Despite all the above I would not advise anyone that does not have some familiarity with chainsaw to go this route.
    That cut also looks like it's not going to be possible with a <70cc saw anyway which further adds to the headaches.
    I'm not sure I'd be as sanguine about chaps with a person as green as Yeet appears to be ...
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  5. #19
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    Default Pessimists all! Be adventuresome!

    I'd think that any reasonable person, being sensible and with a degree of caution and knowledge, can do a good job of it. One must start somewhere.

    There are many great youtube videos on the subject, plus the local wood guild would give him a hand, lessons and pointers.

    Who knows, it might kindle his love of woodwork (... or firewood!)

  6. #20
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    Why does this ironbark look more like PINE, to me anyway?? But what would I know.
    At least it will be easy to plane and saw.

  7. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yeet View Post
    I have a piece of ironbark about 3m similar to the piece on the top of the image.
    It's not a photo of what he has.

  8. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by elanjacobs View Post
    It's not a photo of what he has.
    AGREE ... SIMILAR in basic shape.
    YEET might be best learning on some soft pine like that before moving to ironbark.

  9. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by ian View Post
    I'm not sure I'd be as sanguine about chaps with a person as green as Yeet appears to be ...
    My comment about needing familiarity with chainsaws was less about PPE and more about being able to sharpen a chain and tune a saw for the purpose of milling. Sharpening for plain crosscutting is one of those things newbies (and even those with years of experience) are very poor to hopeless at doing. The problem is compounded by the nature of the process ie chainsaw milling being really tough on chainsaws, the timber (ironbark), and the size of the cut - long bar and chain required therefore consistency of sharpening becoming even more critical.

  10. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by woodPixel View Post
    I'd think that any reasonable person, being sensible and with a degree of caution and knowledge, can do a good job of it. One must start somewhere.

    There are many great youtube videos on the subject, plus the local wood guild would give him a hand, lessons and pointers.

    Who knows, it might kindle his love of woodwork (... or firewood!)
    Or chainsaw milling.

    I agree you have to start somewhere. For chainsaw milling some knowledge of chainsaws is pretty much a necessity - you don't want to be taking a saw in to have them turned up for milling as not many chainsaw mechanics even know what is needed. You end up sharpening so often especially in hardwood that if you cannot do it yourself you'll be forking out a fortune in sharpening chains. But there are examples of folks starting from nowhere with small saws and $100 milling attachment or even home made gear.

    A really simple alaskan mill can be made from a pieces 50 x 100 mm pine and some all thread rod like this.

    eg
    Basicalaskan.jpg
    And here is another
    Simple.jpg

  11. #25
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    Note that Yeet hasn't been here since an hour and ten minutes after their first post.
    I think the last post they may have seen is post #4.
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  12. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by ian View Post
    some questions:
    how big a piece of tree do you have ? - width by average thickness, you have already told us that it is about 3 m long
    how long have you had it ?
    how long since the tree it is from was cut down ?
    how was the segment cut from the whole log ?
    how straight is the segment ?
    how many segments do you have or can get a hold of ?
    what is your budget for piece work or tools ?

    BTW
    It is unlikely that you can recover 3, "around 1 m long" pieces from a segment "about 3 m long". I'd anticipate losing at least half a metre during milling and subsequent drying.
    I'll have to get a picture, although there is less sap wood than in the picture shown, the tree was cut about 5years ago and has been drying in inland southern QLD.

  13. #27
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    Thank you Yeet

    and welcome to the Forums
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  14. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yeet View Post
    I'll have to get a picture, although there is less sap wood than in the picture shown, the tree was cut about 5years ago and has been drying in inland southern QLD.
    5Yr dry Ironbark, Hummmmm . . . . that's carbide cutter territory.

  15. #29
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    We really need to see what Yeet has.
    It's quite possible that the "cheapest way" for Yeet to turn his Ironbark wing split into a approx 1 m long thin slab suitable for a desk is to buy a 1000 x 700 x 30 mm dressed all round glue up.
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  16. #30
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    Man, that returns desk at Bunnings is going to be busy

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