Thread: what do you use to clean saw blades/router bits?

Originally Posted by qwertyu

Used kerosene to clean a blade yesterday, was quite a bit of work but has been the best out of the ones I have tried so far. Will try simple green in future.

Router bits with bearing - any special considerations?

I would undo the Allen bolt and remove the bearing before attacking the cutter with whatever you decide to use, clean & lube the bit at the same time.

what type of lube are you guys using?

Originally Posted by qwertyu

what type of lube are you guys using?

Dry lube.

and as for cleaning blade? dont have time for that.

I got a reply from Carbide Processors.
"the standard ways of cleaning brazed joints are by using 120°+F/ 50°+C water, using a mild acid solution (comparable to the one described in your email), and mechanical methods (sandblasting/ wire brush/ etc)."

The acid I described was 10% Citric Acid solution. However, I'm not too sure how much faith I can put in that answer, due to this part, which preceded it:
"I'm not terribly familiar with the term "TT" in this instance but a Google search indicated that you may be referring to table tennis blades."

Now I ask you - you work for a company called Carbide Processors. You are asked about Brazed joints. Is it too much to ask that you might know what "TT Blades and Bits" might mean, and that it may not mean Table Tennis?

haha. what are TT blades?

Tungsten Tipped.

I have sent exactly the same question to Carbitool in Melbourne so we'll see if they can shed some light.

Hi Brett,
Maybe you should have said tct (tungsten carbide tipped). I wonder if there is a table tennis term for that.
Regards,
Ross

I use a razor blade to scrape the resin off the teeth first, then I clean them up with steel wool and turps. It only takes a few minute each time so I try to do it as often as possible.

Originally Posted by Mobyturns

Same here, does a great job but a bit expensive though.

Same here. Got it for free on special when I bought my CMT combination blade.

At work, in the mill, we clean them with lacquer thinner before we resharpen them.

very stiff brush or file card with lacquer thinner, the miracle solvent (only 'cause I keep a 20 litre drum on a stand, ready for spraying and cleanup). And as mentioned before, get used to what woods gum up the worst and don't let it build up....get it soft, it comes away easy, let go cold for a cupla days and it becomes a razor blade job....not nice on 96 tooth triple chip....cheers
Jim in Shoalhaven Heads

Originally Posted by qwertyu

What are you guys using? I cut some pine the other day and there is black crud on one of my blades. I tried mineral turps, carby cleaner and oomph (goo/gum remover - i think petroleum based) and none of it is all that good. It all works but is a lot of work. What is something else I can try where I can submerge the entire blade? (carby cleaner and oomph are in spray bottles) Ideally easily obtained from bunnings etc

"I had this problem just last week, later reading a Stihl pamphlet that mentioned their alkaline cleaner. Alkaline? Why not try Sugar Soap (TSP), so I soaked chains and bar tip in a use solution for 5-10 minutes. Used an old toothbrush to lightly scrub, and the residue came away easily. Good water rinse afterwards, quick dry, and followed by a dip in bar oil and all's good. Of course, working the chain links after rinsing and oiling is essential. I've found it cheap, simple and quick without exposure to solvents."