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16th June 2018, 08:22 PM #1GOLD MEMBER
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what do you use to clean saw blades/router bits?
What are you guys using? I cut some pine the other day and there is black crud on one of my blades. I tried mineral turps, carby cleaner and oomph (goo/gum remover - i think petroleum based) and none of it is all that good. It all works but is a lot of work. What is something else I can try where I can submerge the entire blade? (carby cleaner and oomph are in spray bottles) Ideally easily obtained from bunnings etc
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16th June 2018, 08:54 PM #2GOLD MEMBER
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Have you tried kerosene? Works for me on chainsaw chains.
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16th June 2018, 10:00 PM #3
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16th June 2018, 10:35 PM #4SENIOR MEMBER
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Kerosene works for me.
Regards
Keith
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16th June 2018, 10:53 PM #5GOLD MEMBER
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Simple Green (the original, not one of the products that grew from the brand name) works for me. You can get it at Bunnings - https://www.bunnings.com.au/simple-g...eaner_p4470387 There's also a 1 litre concentrate available, if it works any better than the 'ready to use' it must be pretty strong.
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17th June 2018, 12:50 AM #6GOLD MEMBER
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Thanks guys.
Also, after you clean the blade, do you put anything on it? (oil etc?)
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17th June 2018, 08:03 AM #7.
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My experience is that resin buildup on blades when dealing with dry wood is usually related to blades not being sharp enough or pushing the tool/wood to fast, so making sure the blades are sharp and not getting too eager are a good preventatives. Blunt blades and pushing too hard overheat the timber and that is what makes it release its resin. Even with sharp blade in dry woods timbers like Sheoak will still release some resin.
As far as cleaning the resin off the blades, apart from those already mentioned, there are many ways to to do this including oven cleaner, strong coffee, very hot water, and diesel.
As AlexS says non caustic oven cleaner is preferred as the caustic version can attack the braze used to hold TC cutting edges but the caustic variety can be used when there is no brazing. I have used it on chainsaw chains. Coffee sounds like an expensive alternative but several times have made a rough brew using used several cups full of coffee grounds and that worked surprisingly well. Cutting Tuart with chainsaws is one of the worst for resin build up as no matter how sharp the chain is. This is where I use diesel and keep a small spray pump handy to squirt onto the chain to help prevent buildup and remove the resin. I have also done this on my bandsaw and it works but you don't want a heap of diesel being sprayed everywhere around machinery. Instead I rated the band by hand and held a diesel impregnated rag against the side and back of the blade and that seemed to work but you have to apply it regularly to be effective.
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17th June 2018, 11:49 AM #8
Someone on here I think suggested soaking them in a 50/50 mixture of liquid clothes washing detergent and water. I tried it on my router bits and it worked a treat, if any super stubborn stuff is still there, I just use my wife's, just kidding, an old tooth brush and it comes right off. Once you make up a batch just keep it in a plastic container with a lid.
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17th June 2018, 12:44 PM #9
There are a number of good techniques mentioned so far, and sometimes it depends on what the crud is as to what will move it.
I've used Citric Acid as a 10% solution very successfully, and it was pretty quick too, when combined with a brush. I'm not too concerned about it weakening the adhesion of the tips to the blade because it's very quick, and it's also a pretty mild acid (it's in soft drinks etc). Cooking/Baking section of the supermarket will have it.
An interesting article here on brazing techniques:
How to Braze Tungsten Carbide
I'll see if I can ask them a question on the effect of caustic and Citric Acid on the brazes.
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17th June 2018, 02:02 PM #10
Engine degreaser spray from Supercheap, $1.
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17th June 2018, 02:31 PM #11Woodworking mechanic
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I use CMT 2050. No complaints.
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17th June 2018, 10:47 PM #12
Sodium Carbonate (Washing soda at Coles) is what I was taught to use, its a very mild alkaline, it breaks down organic residue without attacking the metal soak for a few hours and scrub with a toothbrush. Pat dry and used your standard rust inhibitor.
I used it on router bits, bandsaw and tablesaw blades.
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17th June 2018, 11:25 PM #13SENIOR MEMBER
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I do have some of the CMT cleaner stuff. When it runs out I'm going back to Simple Green like aldav mentioned.
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18th June 2018, 09:15 AM #14
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18th June 2018, 10:02 AM #15GOLD MEMBER
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Used kerosene to clean a blade yesterday, was quite a bit of work but has been the best out of the ones I have tried so far. Will try simple green in future.
Router bits with bearing - any special considerations?
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