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  1. #1
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    Default Clear laquer or varnish for timber decking?

    Clear laquer or varnish for timber decking?

    Assuming that I can get these silly nails out of the decking see this thread here:
    http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=88710

    I want to go away from using just an oil for protecting the timber decking. What I want to use is some kind of clear laquer or varnish.

    Yes the Feast and Watson timber decking oil make the timber look very nice, but I want more protection and a cleaner shinny wetter look.

    But I have heard that these clear coats can crack, fade, peel, chip and go yellow from the sun and weather conditions etc. I think that there are some poly????? coats that are very good these days?

    Can someone offer some advice on my situation.

    Oh, here are pics of floor where parts have been sanded. It is spotted gum. I'm hoping a clear will stop it from going that 'grey' colour.

    Cheers
    Peter
    Toowoomba
    Qld
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  3. #2
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    Default

    Probably the only thing I would trust to do what you want to do would be a marine grade finish epoxy.
    It'll be an exercise in frustration trying to remove those nails, they have a twist shank and will be virtually impossible to remove sensitively. When they are nailed in they spiral into the wood and create a 'thread' much like a screw. If you are putting on a coating type finish, the easiest thing to do would be to punch them. If you find that punching splinters the deck board, you might try first punching over the nail with the smallest wad punch that will fit over the nail head YMMV

    Cheers
    Michael

  4. #3
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    I did reply to your other thread, but as an extra, if you choose to varnish/lacquer with marine or commercial stuff, the exposed surface which gets wet will become like a skating rink - good fun if you can skate I guess but not so flash for others. In these days of litigation you could also have an unwanted problem.

    I doubt that you will beat the "grey" colouring completely but a good deck cleaner will do wonders with a lot less work - [it will also get down between the boards which you can't sand].

  5. #4
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    I have been search the forums and have come across this Spa-N-Deck product which seems to be highly rated.

    I'm thinking of now just bashing the nails down.


  6. #5
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    Check it out first - from your other thread.

    "It is my understanding that this type of nail is used so as to minimise the amount of water penetration around the nail hole, especially a punched nail hole, leading to rot and rust."

    Punching the large headed nails will compound this problem IMO especially if any gal is removed as well.

  7. #6
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    agreed with Bob on this. If you're going to go for an impermeable glassy finish then punching would be OK. If you want to go spa-n-deck, then don't punch.
    Spa-n-deck is a good product BTW.
    Cheers
    Michael

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    so let me get this right.

    If I use spa-n-deck and bash the nails in flush I might have problems with water sitting in the sunken nail holes.

    If I use a fully sealed glassy finish, knocking them in would be ok. I assume this is because this stuff will full seal and stop water from getting into the nail indented hole.

    But spa-n-deck seals out water as well? So why can't I use that?


    And I have noticed that a few nail I have bashed down flush have actually risen up again. So I'm thinking if I use a hard sealer the nails may pop up and crack the paint.

    Peter


  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Apples View Post
    so let me get this right.

    If I use spa-n-deck and bash the nails in flush I might have problems with water sitting in the sunken nail holes.

    If I use a fully sealed glassy finish, knocking them in would be ok. I assume this is because this stuff will full seal and stop water from getting into the nail indented hole.

    But spa-n-deck seals out water as well? So why can't I use that?


    And I have noticed that a few nail I have bashed down flush have actually risen up again. So I'm thinking if I use a hard sealer the nails may pop up and crack the paint.

    Peter
    Confusing isn't it
    The general rule of thumb for any outdoor deck is don't punch nails. And don't fill em if they are punched, it'll just pop. Something like epoxy is impervious, so standing water won't soak into the wood. Spa n deck is a breathable acrylic finish, standing water will soak through.

    Cheers
    Michael

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    Keep in mind also that if you use any kind of hard finish, when it comes times to refinish it, and the time will come, you will have to strip it right back because you can't apply it over the top of old flaky coats. With an oil finish, you can just hit it with deck cleaner and apply more coats as required.
    "I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."

  11. #10
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    Peter

    I have tried many varnishes on my yacht over the years. The best results have been from Estapol Exterior Gloss. (Apparently this is the same as their "Marine Gloss' except for the label and price.)

    I sand to bare wood, put on three coats sanding between coats, after two years lightly sand and put on another coat, repeat at four and hopefully six years. UV will eventually cause the polyurethane to fail from the inside - it breaks away from the wood. Then totally strip and start again.

    No varnish really likes UV. Each year a little more of my varnish gets painted over - it really is a PIA to maintain. Looks great when fresh and well done, looks crap as it starts to age.

    Cheers

    Graeme

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    I think there is a good reason why people generally don't varnish their verandahs and decks.

    My neighbour has tried out a new finish on his which dries as a surface film, a bit like Sikkens. It's supposed to be the bee's knees but a fair bit more pricey than normal. I'll ask him what it's called if I remember next time I see him.

    Edit: the reason he tried the new stuff was because the stuff that was applied originally flaked off and looked bloody terrible.

    I just put another coat of oil on my back deck after a bit of a blast with the Karcher and it came up good as new. Needs it done every couple of years.
    "I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."

  13. #12
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    How does that spa n deck go on?

    The actual oils are very runny. Is the spa and deck thicker to apply, and does it have a thicker layer when dry?


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    im a spraypainter by trade,sprayed for 25 years and sold for about 5 years.I reckon a good quality two pack automotive clear {Sikkens}would last for years and years they had uv stabilisers in them and have come a very long way in the 30 old years. The only problem i see would be that it would be slippery. i done a kids pine table and chairs which i burnt the grain then slight rub back then brushed about 5 coats let it dry and light rub then another 2 coats about 9 years ago and this thing is still like new, there is no sign of it bubbling or lifting anywhere on it and a deep gloss. i would say it would stand up better then most products out there but it would cost a bit of money to do.Hope this helps you out.
    Cheers
    Scott

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    Interesting idea to use auto 2PK paint. I'd try that on a smaller non mission critical job, but for a timber floor aaahhhh I dunno.


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    Quote Originally Posted by Apples View Post
    How does that spa n deck go on?

    The actual oils are very runny. Is the spa and deck thicker to apply, and does it have a thicker layer when dry?
    Spa n deck is excellent to use. You clean and do 2 coats in the one day. The first coat is put on while the deck is still damp from cleaning. It's a bit runnier than acrylic paint, but not a runny as oils. The first coat soaks in and keys the surface for the second coat. I does leave a build on the surface of the timber, but not like the surface left by intergrain dwd. I have had it on my decks in sun for 5 years, recoated once. It does weather, but has never flaked. simply the best I have used.

    Cheers
    Michael

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