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  1. #1
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    Default Best connectors for flatpack furniture

    I need some to make some furniture and cabinetry which needs to be stored flat and easily transportable. It will be made from 16 or 18mm melamine mdf/pineboard/plywood/whatever, with a limited amount of timber.

    Calling it ‘transportable’ is not exactly correct. It’ll probably be made, assembled, disassembled, stored, and then assembled in place only once. So for the second and final assembly it’s probably OK to use glue and screws (where hidden) to supplement whatever knockdown connection system I’ve used.

    It may be flat panel construction but I nonetheless want it to be of a fairly high standard of design and creativity. Spray painted too, and possibly some veneer work.

    I’m currently researching the best type of connection system. If money was no object I’d use Lamello Tenso System, but it seems very expensive in both setup and consumables. I’ve also seen the Striplox system, or more likely the Striplox in combination with glue at final assembly. It has a modest cost but I doubt the performance.

    Has anyone gone down this route. Can you advise what you used and how well it performed?

    Cheers
    Arron
    Apologies for unnoticed autocomplete errors.

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  3. #2
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    Aug 2008
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    Melbourne
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    Default

    It's hard to beat pin and cam for both cost and ease of use.

  4. #3
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    Default

    I make large knock-down cabinets (2200h, 600x600 d/w) and have found the Lamello Zeta to be absolutely outstanding. Expensive, but my clients love it.

    I'm a trivial small production shop though, plus my clients were prepared/keen to have this option for ease of install, moves and cleaning (the interiors tend to get dirty. The Zeta has only a small dot to plug).

    I looked at Pin+Cams and they are excellent too. The quality of the offering from Hafele is excellent.

    Tell us more about your project!

  5. #4
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    Default

    Thanks Woodpixel. And yep, the Lamello Zeta does seem to be the best there is, but this is not a pay job so I’m not sure I can justify the cost. Or maybe - I’ll just have to think about it. How much roughly did your zeta cost and how much do you pay for the fittings? I’m assuming the fittings are expensive but I can’t find their cost on the web. Actually, everything from Lamello seems to be advertised on the ‘if you have to ask the cost then you can’t really afford it’ principle.

    I’m also curious about glue. Are there really good, seriously strong and long lasting glues which can be used for glueing up melamine cabinets. Obviously it has to stick equally well to the cut mdf/chipboard/plywood edge as to the melamine face. Big ask.

    Cheers
    Arron
    Apologies for unnoticed autocomplete errors.

  6. #5
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    Perhaps the easiest and most straight forward approach is to use screws.

    For the initial assembly you could drill for and use #6 gauge screws, say 40 mm long
    For the final assembly you could re-drill and use #8 gauge screws.
    Though I really think that #8 gauge screws would be fine from the get go.

    The design and location of the cabinetry will have big bearing on how complex the task is.
    If the cabinet will be free standing and you can incorporate a cover panel, then the carcass could be just screwed with the screw heads hidden by cover panels which could be attached with contact adhesive. An applied molding along a line of screws will conceal how the cabinetry is constructed.

    if #8 gauge screws are not really an option for you, then as ElanJacobs said, it's hard to go past pin and cam. Each pin and cam can be supplemented with a pair of dowels to stop the component rotating.


    If you measure "best" in terms of what is visible after installation, Lamello's InVis system is possibly "the best"
    http://www.lamello.com/fileadmin/use...-System-EN.mp4
    Invis Mx2 | Lamello
    But don't go there unless you have the desire to really extend yourself, particularly in terms of precision layout and drilling.
    https://www.axminster.co.uk/lamello-...ill-jig-506241
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  7. #6
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    Ugh...Invis...

    I recommend you stay away from them unless you can ensure positional accuracy of every hole to 0.3mm or better. They're a great concept and very strong, but there's little room for error. They're also stupid expensive, because Lamello.

  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by elanjacobs View Post
    Ugh...Invis...

    I recommend you stay away from them unless you can ensure positional accuracy of every hole to 0.3mm or better. They're a great concept and very strong, but there's little room for error. They're also stupid expensive...
    I know, and I recall your experience with them, that's why I said
    don't go there unless you have the desire to really extend yourself, particularly in terms of precision layout and drilling.
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  9. #8
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    From Lincoln Sentry.

    Lamello Zeta P2 with Elements $2125. This is the whiz bang kit with all the fruit.

    A syatainered machine alone is $1722. An 80 pack of P10 Clampex clampies is $187. The more one buys, the cheaper they get (quite rapidly).... Ahem, Axminster.

    I know these aren't great prices for a consumer who just wants to do a few jobs, but these tools seem to sell 2nd hand at remarkable prices, if use-and-sell is your intention. I'd consider it right up there with the Domino, or my fabulous micro-pinner, in how it changes production.

    LS are excellent. Very professional with no dicking around. They also stock Mirotone finishes (excellent prices) and an excellent range of glues ... Industrial adhesives, kitchen, cabinetry, RF glues, etc.

  10. #9
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    Edit to above.

    I should mention that the Lamello Zeta is an absolutely outstanding tool for a particular job.

    It won't be everyone's cup of tea, nor will you be readily able to get it to do things it wasn't designed for. It's versatility is building schmicko re-knock downable and super fancy flat packed cabinetry.

    The Domino still sits at my right hand in the studio. It's still a banging tool!

    I've also experienced the Hafele cam and pin inserts. The jig is bang on and the cam hardware is from another galaxy compared to the excretia sold at Bunnings.... Rafix, Minifix 12 and 15: https://www.hafele.com.au/en/product...1ae2b00020023/

  11. #10
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    Jan 2016
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by woodPixel View Post
    I should mention that the Lamello Zeta is an absolutely outstanding tool
    So you finally bit the bullet and got one...
    I bought the 4mm blade and use it as my std biscuiter as well.

    I couldn't be happier with the Lamello Zeta.

  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by woodPixel View Post
    I know these aren't great prices for a consumer who just wants to do a few jobs, but these tools seem to sell 2nd hand at remarkable prices, if use-and-sell is your intention. I'd consider it right up there with the Domino, or my fabulous micro-pinner, in how it changes production.
    Can you tell us more about your micro-pinner. Air powered? Brand, size, what do you use it for and does it play a role in cabinet construction ?

    Cheers
    Arron
    Apologies for unnoticed autocomplete errors.

  13. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Arron View Post
    Can you tell us more about your micro-pinner. Air powered? Brand, size, what do you use it for and does it play a role in cabinet construction ?
    I've several air powered pinners. They have revolutionised the way I work. I know the tech is old and Im late to the scene, but it was after watching a few youtubes of finish carpenters doing frames, lintels, cornice, kicks, etc that I thought... hang on... that's the same sort of thing I do for my commercial customers displays. Since adopting them I can do a good sized order in a day... fewer jigs, less time, less mess.

    To the facts!

    There is this micro-pinner. Love love love it! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002EVPO7W This tiny little pinner is just absolutely perfect for doing display work. The holes are tiny and a little wipe of Timbermate on ones finger fills what "remains" of the hole. Its super fast, non marking, super accurate and fun the use. Probably a little on the unsafe side though, as it does not have the pressure dooverlackie on the front. Obviously not a tool targeted the dill or consumer.

    The fine wire stapler, which I absolutely love for doing leather and upholstery work: https://www.amazon.com.au/gp/product/B006ARJX0A All the staples are the same width, but the length varies for the job. Surprisingly Bunnings has the cheapest prices on the staples. Its easy to make them neat as there is plenty of viewing room and no obstruction on the end (rule a line and you can accurately staple right on it).

    And the last I use is my Big Kahuna: Paslode T250S-F16 16 Gauge, which isn't really for any kind of woodwork requiring a delicate touch. It's fierce. Bang! Useful for framing and inside of couches (etc) before lining them. It shoots out the equivalent of nails

    All are powered by the air compressor, set to 90 psi, running this dryer just off the compressor: Phase 3 Air Filter | Amaxi

    I bought the staplers from Amazon in the US and there is a spare of each in the cart for when I get around to doing the next USA order/import

  14. #13
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    One final thing I should mention, I use the micropinner on all my MDF constructions. When fired in, the pins sit flush leaving no appreciable hole (adjust PSI, but 90 is a Good Number). They are soft enough to be easily sandable and don't cause a fuss on the TS if I should trim trough one.

    I can make 35 of these boxes in a day with it. Previously it took days. The micropinner has made this regular job a pleasure.

    First the sides are glued and pinned (aligned with a simple jig), dried, the bottom flush sanded on the thickness sander, then the bottoms added (glued, 6 pins evenly spread), stacked up and "clamped" with a 20kg bucket of glass blasting media on top.

    The pinner shoots 1/2" to 1" pins. They hold the work like buggery. No need to be enthusiastic and overdo the number of pins... a couple is heaps. The pins curl slightly (left or right) as they are fired in and the two bits of wood are clamped together by the force. For example, on the box sides, after adding the glue (gluBot!) I use three pins (top, middle, bottom, about 1cm from the top/bottom to avoid splits) and those three pins literally SUCK to two bits of MDF together. No additional clampling required. No gaps either.


    reach the roof.jpg

  15. #14
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    Default

    Thanks for all the details, woodPixel. It's great to have specific recommendations like this.

  16. #15
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    Meant to post this a few days ago

    Lee Valley, as you might expect, have a variety of knock down fittings.
    These

    Striplox™ 90° Panel Connectors - Lee Valley Tools
    are perhaps the easiest to use.
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

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