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Thread: The Maloof joint
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15th November 2006, 10:59 PM #1
The Maloof joint
There are a few things I need to work out before I can even think about building a rocking chair.
Tonight I tried the seat and the dado rabbet joint. The front leg joint is pretty easy to cut since everything is square. The back leg will be harder, it forms a 95 degree angle to the seat.
Both joints can be done by hand. Using a router to cut rebate will be hard but I am working on it.Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com
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16th November 2006, 07:33 AM #2
The joint looks good.
It even looks straight forward to make – Is it?
SM leaves his legs oversized and square where he makes the joints. I expect all the angles are 90 degrees at the intersection.
He sounds very practical about his joinery so keeping the pieces square at the intersections would make sense.
The legs curve away from the joints to give the angles he wants.
Then his shaping exposes the joints to show them off..
Nice work.Scally
__________________________________________
The ark was built by an amateur
the titanic was built by professionals
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16th November 2006, 12:41 PM #3
keep the pics comming (please.)
p.t.c
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16th November 2006, 01:44 PM #4
You're a legend!
For the rear leg - if the dado is cut on the leg at 85° on the front/rear faces, and 90° on the inside face, then the mating faces parallel with the rockers could have the corresponding +/-5° formed by chisel. This might be where he uses the special router bits, though I'm not sure how the transition from vertical to 5° works.
C'mon you lot - lets figure this out. Wongo can be the CMC for us shed starved folk. If he wants, that is.The only way to get rid of a [Domino] temptation is to yield to it. Oscar Wilde
.....so go4it people!
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16th November 2006, 02:43 PM #5
I think the joint itself is not hard to do. To cut cut the rebate with a router is the bit that I could work out. If you use the router bit to cut the rebate on the seat then the back leg will bend 5° outwards and also 5° backwards. Hang on maybe that’s what it is.:eek: :confused:
To cut the matching joint on the leg is one thing but where do I get those special router bits? I don’t think CMT will make me 2 for $30 each.
I will work it out, I promise.Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com
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16th November 2006, 05:03 PM #6
Hey Scott
Why not use your router so that all "vertical" cuts are 5° out and then use a chiselcert all the horizontalcutscome back to90° (that is,parallel to the "floor").Then you could use and the ordinary trimmer bit or a spiral bit and clean it up with your chisel?Cheers
Jeremy
If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly
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16th November 2006, 05:10 PM #7
Quiet, don’t give away my secret.
Well done jmk89, exactly what I have been thinking. Still it is going to be a challenge.Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com
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16th November 2006, 05:25 PM #8
I wonder if the Domirouter would be handy here:confused: - Lignum, Flowboy? With the plate set to 85° it would at least do the angled bits.
We'll get it.The only way to get rid of a [Domino] temptation is to yield to it. Oscar Wilde
.....so go4it people!
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16th November 2006, 07:58 PM #9Senior Member
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I'm sure you will work it out Wongo, we always do! Perhaps you can make a router template?????
Keep us posted.
Cheers,
conwood
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16th November 2006, 10:28 PM #10
Got it.
Hey the idea works, no custom router bits, no chisel.
If you just ignore the surface, everything else in the joint is square. All I need is a jig to give me accurate cut every time.Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com
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16th November 2006, 10:42 PM #11
The way Maloof makes the seat is very clever. He starts with 1 curve on the middle piece. Cut it on a bandsaw. Use it as a template to do the next 2. It makes the sanding later on a lot easier.
Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com
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17th November 2006, 07:25 AM #12
Fantastic stuff, Wongo.
You could fair the curves on those end bits by freehanding them on the bandsaw. I saw SM do it on tv once, though he said he wouldn't recommend it. I tried it once and it worked OK. Though I probably wouldn't recommend it either.Those are my principles, and if you don't like them . . . well, I have others.
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17th November 2006, 07:47 AM #13
You da man Scott!
He said somewhere that he's only broken one finger :eek: when the timber caught in the blade and slammed his hand into the table. Not too bad in 40+years of cavalier bandsaw wizardry. I've done it on a couple of bits on the rounded ends of the bed top rails. It seemed natural. I think that you would have to be very sleepy to get cut, as the blade cannot draw you in.The only way to get rid of a [Domino] temptation is to yield to it. Oscar Wilde
.....so go4it people!
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17th November 2006, 08:14 AM #14
Great work Scott!
As Tex and the rest of us said at lunch on Wednesday, stop thinking about it in the abstract - start cutting and you will work it out as you go along. It is coming along brilliantly. This is a great advertisement for the "suck it and see" school of design!Cheers
Jeremy
If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly
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17th November 2006, 08:59 AM #15
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