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6th August 2013, 03:38 PM #1Member
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Corner Joining Question - from a REAL beginner...
Hello wise men..
I am new to woodworking and slowly building my collection of bits and pieces.
Every time we go out somewhere and the wife find something she likes, I volunteer myself to build it at home..
This leads me to unfamiliar territory.
Now, the latest creation to come out of my workshop is a rustic frame to surround the Bunnings mirror.
Frame needs to be 1200 x 350.
I have routed (with my new "Zone" router table - pretty rubbish and the fence moves around more then a bowl of jelly, but still better then my free hand attempt) a 5mm rebate in the timber which will allow the mirror to sit flush.
I have cut all my lengths but am unsure how to join them.
The old me would have gone to the hardware store and bought 4 L brackets and screwed it in from the back - something that would be frowned and laughed upon by you all. So, the time has come for me to learn how to do a proper joint.
I bought a Haron Dowling jig, but have since read that these aren't the best, but anyway, its going to have to do this month, until I can afford better.
Has anyone had any luck with these jigs ? I have managed to drill the holes in one piece of the frame, but need to work out the best way of lining it up for the other piece it joins to. Should I use the centering pieces and get a mark that way and then drill with the jig ?
Also, what type of join am I trying to create ?
Pics are below
I hope you have had a giggle at my early attempts of woodworking drama's.
I will post pics of the finished product hopefully.............photo 2.jpgphoto 3.jpgphoto 1.jpg
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6th August 2013 03:38 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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6th August 2013, 04:38 PM #2
Good Morning Matt
More like a wry smile than a giggle - we all have memories of similar events - and we are all still learning.
Firstly, that joint - or any joint at 45* is called a mitre joint - add the dowells and it becomes a dowelled mitre joint.
Haven't used that particualr brand of dowelling jig, but procedure is fairly standard. Somewhere on the jig it will have a reference mark. Just place the frames in situe on a very flat surface - make sure all joins are close (no gaps) and that the frame is absolutely square - then with a very sharp pencil draw you own reference line across each mitre. Then you just line up the reference on your jig with the reference on each mitre and drill your dowell holes.
I like to use 3mm MDF or plywood as backing on mirrors and sized to cover about half the frame. Screw this backing sheet to the frame and it becomes structural. Dowells are then almost redundant. For smaller jobs I just glue the mitres with PVA glue.
A little trick is, before assembly, to paint a 3mm strip inside each mitre against the face with whatever finish you intend using on the face. This camoflages any minor imperfections in the mitre.
Fair Winds
Graeme
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6th August 2013, 05:00 PM #3GOLD MEMBER
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The tip about putting some of your finish along the top of the inside of the join works well.
Remember that the only silly question is the one that that you don't ask. We all started somewhere and are hopefully still on the track to better resultsTom
"It's good enough" is low aim
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6th August 2013, 05:52 PM #4GOLD MEMBER
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If not included with your jig - you should be able to purchase "alignment pins" for want of a better name. They are like a drawing pin with a fat head [head sizes matches your dowel size] which you place into your dowel holes in one piece with the points proud, place the bit to be joined up against the pins and push/tap and you have your centre points for the dowels in the other piece.
The greatest so called trick to good mitres in frames is to ensure that you lengths and widths are exact - any variation, even 1mm out will lead to a join which needs to be forced closed.
Hope it helps.
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7th August 2013, 08:32 AM #5
Yep, I would use L brackets as I know they will work.
Another joining method I use for frames is "v" nails. Something like this Carba-Tec® V-Nail Tool : CARBA-TEC
The idea of 3mm MDF backing will not only hold the frame together, but prevent the mirror from falling out.
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7th August 2013, 09:29 AM #6Member
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Hi guys,
Thank you all for your replies.
I will purchase the alignment pins and have a crack at it.
The MDF idea is a top idea as like you said it will create a structural brace which will also stop the mirror twisting and shattering.
Will post my progress.
Thanks again
EERS:
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7th August 2013, 03:37 PM #7
Good Morning Matt
If you have a dowelling jig, then you do not need alignment pins. The jig is much better, IMHO.
V-nails also work well as Handyjack suggested, but that driver or "pushmaster" is essential. Have a look at:
Picture Framing Melbourne
Fair Winds
Graeme
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