Thread: Corner Mortises and Tenons Question.

use a full width tenon on say the side rails
on the end rails the tenon is only full width until it meets the side mortices then it should narrow to 1/3rd the full width
assemble the sides first
then cut a 1/3rd width mortice through the side rail tenon.

Thanks! Using full-width tenon wouldn't overly weaken the leg?

This is what I was originally thinking. Would it work also?

Could you use conventional mortice & tenon joints then cut a slot on the exposed faces of the legs and inlay two pieces so it gives the impression of the tenon runs all the way through

Just a thought from left field

Rgds

Hello Scissors,

I think your plan is fine ....

But, in addition I suggest you use a haunched tenon. This is a tenon that is near to full width on the shoulder, and for (say) 8 - 10 mm of the tenon length ---- then reduce its width to the two-thirds, or one-third for the rest of the through-mortice. You get some, but not a lot of strength from the haunched part .... but it serves a second purpose in preventing any tendency for the rails to cup .... something that the end-rails might have a tendency to do with only their one-third centre piece locked into the leg.

Qw

Thanks, that makes a lot of sense.

one more idea on what tenons and will be heading down that japanese twist to fit stunt tenon road lol, man all i see in your oringinal tenon pic is not enough support for sideways twisting on at least the end rail( even when the table top is fitted), so while your messing with a false tenon punch a dowel(not sure if a biscuit would do it) or at least a screw behind the false tenon.



Max Ripper 90% luck 10% more luck

Originally Posted by Scissors

For my next project I am making a pair of small (400 x 250 top) hall/display type tables. My question regards the 'top corner' joints where 75 x 16 aprons join 32 x 32 legs. Reading tells me that I should use mitred tenons (offset towards the outside of the leg). This is fine, but I would really rather have through tenons as I like exposed joinery. Is there any way to do this without horribly damaging the integrity of the joint? eg; Have the side tenons offset downwards and the front/back tenons offset upwards?

NB: The width of the apron stock can be changed if required.

Scissors
Another alternative is to use floating tenons. This could happen as follows

1. Route mortices in the aprons
2. Route through mortices in the legs - 2 per leg at 90 degrees
3. Chisel square the mortice ends
4. Machine a length of floating tenon to a nice neat fit. If you jig, all your mortices will be exactly the same size and therefore so can be your tenons
5. In each leg insert one tenon completely through leg mortice making sure it is flush with, or proud of, the face to be exposed. This would best be the tenons associated with the long aprons.
6. Insert the other tenons into the short apron leg mortices and but up against the face of the "long" tenon already in the post.
7. Insert a "plug" tenon in the outer end of the mortice so it is also flush with or proud of the outer face
8. You will now have 4 legs with tenons inserted and glued. If you have left the tenons a little over length for the mortices in the aprons you can now trim them to length. (leave some glue space). You can then finish plane or sand the outer faces of the legs so that the tenon ends are nicely flushed and you have a good smooth clamping face. This is much easier to do on a leg by leg basis rether than on assembled legs and aprons
9. Assemble and glue posts to aprons, clamp and bingo

It is a different process to the conventional mortice and tenon joints but since I saw David Marks using it and got used to preparing some simple jigs for the router I have had some great results

Give it some thought
Luck

Cheers
HarcX

Originally Posted by Max Ripper

one more idea on what tenons and will be heading down that japanese twist to fit stunt tenon road lol,

:confused:

whats your point tassiekiwi? never confuse jap stunt joinery with a thing of beauty(wheres poor timberpassion after messing with that &&&&&?)


Max Ripper not another believer

Im back after a long break and a change of career (only to pay the bills and buy a house, the woodwork is still there)

I did who to the what now??????

I think you are witnessing the results of drug abuse. Only he knows what he meant and he is long gone....

Originally Posted by silentC

I think you are witnessing the results of drug abuse. Only he knows what he meant and he is long gone....

I may be wrong but i think he has been back behaving himself with a new identity

You could do a doweled M&T like pic 1. Or if you're flexible enough to go entirely with dowel joinery, you can interleave them like the fingers in a pair of folded hands (pic 2).

Thread ressurected eh?

Thanks Zenwood but they've been finished for quite a while now. :P In the end I rethought the design and went with mitred blind tenons.

http://woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/...ad.php?t=30023