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  1. #31
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    So many suggestions to use jigs and various powers tools. I’m surprised. Nothing wrong with doing that, but for such a small job, just go at it with hand plane in the vice. 10 minutes later job done. Why over complicate it.
    As Ian said, all you need to do is scribe a line down the length of it and plane till you meet the line. Your only planing 15mm off - it would take twice as long to build a jig or even setup your <insert machine here>.
    And as a bonus you’re improving your hand tool skills!


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  3. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mobyturns View Post
    Attachment 437409
    You have over complicated it if your sketch is a view through the thicknesser from infeed entry - only requires the backing board and one strip, the RHS inner in your diagram. The backing board / sled only needs to be 10mm or so wider than the work piece and approx. 200mm longer for the end snipe protection waste blocks.
    that was my first thought when I read your description and later started to draw what you had described, then

    1. I was concerned that the feed rollers / cutter head might tip the sled as they would only be applying pressure to one long edge of the work piece. Maybe not an issue with weatherboards, but could be the difference between success and failure with a box lid. So
    2. I added a rail either side of the sled to keep the pressure from the cutter head / feed rollers uniform across the sled.
    3. having added the rails, I decided that each rail might as well also act as a fence to hold the work piece in place -- saves faffing around with alignment lines, careful placement of the work piece and hot melt glue. (I'm guessing that Dengy's work piece is already very close to final width.)
    4. I standardised on sticks 20 mm thick (this width could be 15 or 30 mm). If the sticks forming the feet and fences are the same width then there is minimal measuring required when building the jig.
    5. the jig can be run through the thicky a few times to angle the feet and fences and check that the resulting slope is what is wanted, before the work piece is run through. This has the added benefit of replacing the sawn edge of a height block with a wider contact area.


    However, I'd guess by now that Dengy has tapered his piece
    It would be interesting to know how he got on.
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  4. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by woodman-79 View Post
    So many suggestions to use jigs and various powers tools. I’m surprised. Nothing wrong with doing that, but for such a small job, just go at it with hand plane in the vice. 10 minutes later job done. Why over complicate it.
    As Ian said, all you need to do is scribe a line down the length of it and plane till you meet the line. Your only planing 15mm off - it would take twice as long to build a jig or even setup your <insert machine here>.
    And as a bonus you’re improving your hand tool skills!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Agreed, but some of us can't push a hand plane due to medical issues or apathy / lethargy.
    Mobyturns

    In An Instant Your Life CanChange Forever

  5. #34
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    Fair point. I say just do whatever gets you in the workshop making shavings.


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  6. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by woodman-79 View Post
    Fair point. I say just do whatever gets you in the workshop making shavings.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Yeah, I love using the Stanley's I inherited from Dad but having an implanted defibrillator / pacemaker means that I have to be cautious about potentially injuring the defib site. Already had one infected defib site and a complete extraction so not going there again with MKII. Nothing like the sound of a nice sharp plane iron slicing through timber.
    Mobyturns

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  7. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dengue View Post
    I have a board 300L x 140W x 20 thick. I need to cut it diagonally on edge so that I am left with a long wedge shape 300L x 140W with one edge being 20mm thick and the opposite edge being 5mm thick. So the angle of cut is 6 degrees off vertical
    Can anyone please suggest a good and safe way of doing this?
    hi Dengy

    Nearly 2 weeks later...

    how did you get on ??
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  8. #37
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    hi Dengy

    Nearly 2 weeks later...

    how did you get on ??
    Sorry ian, still laid up with bronchitis, not allowed anywhere near the shed or dust. Doctor said I should start coming good in another week to 10 days. Been over 3 weeks now. Not much fun. Hate this 'older' age, non stop coughing, wheezing and whistling in the lungs.
    My missus has been looking up on Google how to smother someone in their sleep and get away with it
    regards,

    Dengy

  9. #38
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    Bummer.
    best wishes for a full recovery.

    in the mean time, have you any feed back on the suggestions ?
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  10. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dengue View Post
    My missus has been looking up on Google how to smother someone in their sleep and get away with it
    That's pretty much normal around here, except my missus won't use a computer. We have heaps of issues once the Raintrees across the road and a few other trees come into flower, being down wind of Sun Metals doesn't help much either.

    Hope you have a speedier recovery.
    Mobyturns

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  11. #40
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    Default Success !!

    Well, after a 6 month break due to illness and a 4 week holiday in SE QLD, I am back in the shed. YESSSS!!!!!
    My first job was to cut the 300 x 150 x 25mm board on edge, ( I redesigned the workpiece during my layup) and I used the bandsaw as recommended in the very 2nd post above by Chrism3, set to 9.5degrees slope on the table, and it turned out perfectly. Have been sweating on this for ages, turned out a lot better than expected, and quick too.
    Many thanks to everyone for their ideas and suggestions and great jigs
    regards,

    Dengy

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