Thread: Cutting cylindrical holes.

1. Use a forstner bit in a drill press. Usually come 25mm, or 1 inch depending on where you get it, but it should leave a reasonably flat hole with only a small 'divot' in the center.

2. Since you're in the UK, I've no idea, but be patient and someone on here will know.

3. The normal finish for a chopping board is mineral oil, which we can get here at the supermarket in the laxative section. As for timber, I believe there are only a few species you should avoid, but generally you're better off with hardwood (oak, maple) than softwood (pine).

Hope that helps.

Tex

I use a bit that is used for the reset hinges in cupboard doors for this type of job.
les

Tim,
A 24mm forstner bit is rather common here. I know it sounds wierd but our quarter dollar or 25 cent piece is 24mm in diameter. The bits are in demand for those folks that collect our "State" quarters. Usually a map of the states is made in wood and a 24mm hole is drilled for each quarter. This gimmick of the state quarters has made the treasury BILLIONS of dollars. Most households have at least one collection of the quarters which is taking $12.50 or $25 out of circulation for the collection.

Timmmmm,

is assembly an option?

Could you drill your holes right through a 15mm piece of wood, then glue a back on?

Cheers,
Andrew

The point on a Forstner bit is needed only for precisely locating the centre. If you can locate it otherwise, and don't want the divot at the bottom of the hole, grind the point flush with the bottom chisels. Alternatively, use two bits: one with the point to locate the centre, and the other without the point to continue the bore - the rim cutters will follow the first part of the hole. Interestingly, Benjamin Forstner's US patent no. 155,148 (22 Sep 1874) did not include the point.

Joe

Use a drill press a forstner bit to cut the hole on a piece of ply. Place the template on the wood, use a router and a straight bit with bearing to cut the hole. That way you will get a flat bottom.

I vote the router.

Could do the lot with it, make a simple circle cutting jig to make the template, then use a pattern following bit as Wongo suggested, or just a template guide in the router base & a straight router bit.

Adjust template size to allow for offset betwixt ( ) guide & bit.


Cheers..................Sean

See Wongy has got the thinkin'cap on!

I especially like the idea of grinding the center spur off of a bit. Choosing between the two methods would depend on how many holes and how accurately the holes need to be placed. Drilling can be much more accurate than centering a router jig that's wide open. But if you don't need .5 mm placement, router jig looks like the way to go.

Timmm,
I would go with the router solution. Try Axminster power tool centre for this - just Google (UK sites) Axminster .
As for the wood the traditional wood for butcher's blocks is Hornbeam "Carpinus betulus" and used on end i.e. so that the end grain is the upper surface. An alternative to hornbeam would be Beech "Fagus sylvatica" and this would be easier to obtain. You need a dense wood that isn't brittle and these two fit the bill the best.
Also try UKworkshop.co.uk for UK relevant information.
Hope this helps.

Thanks! You've all been very helpful!

arose62: Thought about assembly but it wouldn't be as nice...

Think I shall get a forstner bit (key bit of information (pun unintented); didn't know they existed), and try it in a drill press as I don't have a router. And if that fails I shall buy a router.

Thanks everyone!

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